Getting close to placing an order on a BH3010. After reviewing the community questions on the Yeti option and what seems to be a lot of confusion on how it operates and what switch does what and a lack of provided information by Heartland on how the system is supposed to function and cautions to keep in mind...is this a recommended option to purchase by those that have it? Would you order it again and does it allow peace of mind when temps are in the low 20's?
I've always ran with my gray valves open in cold weather and dripped a line to prevent freeze-ups with my freshwater tank empty. It sounds like you have to keep water in all tanks when using. Do your dump valves still freeze up if left closed using this system? How much water do you need in the fresh water tank to stay safe with the 110 volt heat pads? When hooked up to water does the heat traced line keep the supply water line from freezing in the underbelly ? Not planning on boondocking in the winter and would be hooked into power and water...
Hi Harry1,
There are 3 components to the Yeti package. 1) Heating pads on the holding tanks, 2) heat tape on the "main" or fresh water feed line, and 3) added radiant foil type insulation.
The heat tape on the main water line from the fresh tank to the pump is in the lower underbelly area where it's most likely to freeze. The upper area near the pump doesn't have heat tape because it doesn't get as cold there. However, many of us place a 100 watt heat lamp above the pump to keep that area warm in very cold weather.
The tank heating pads keep the holding tanks from freezing. If you'll never be in temps lower than about 25F, you might be able to get away with using the furnace to heat the underbelly. However, the duct into the underbelly stops a long way before the location of a fresh tank that's over the axles. If your tanks freeze and crack - $$$.
The tank heating pads don't directly protect the valves from freezing. But in my experience on our Landmark, the valves don't freeze until you get to around -15F.
To prevent damage to the tanks from having the heat pads on, you just need a little water to dissipate the heat. When I dump my tanks, I don't empty the grays completely and I'd guess I'm leaving less than 5 gallons in each tank. After dumping the black tank, I add about 5 gallons. I keep the fresh tank at least 1/2 full in case the city water freezes up.
The Yeti option doesn't protect the city water at all. You'll need a heated water hose and I'd suggest hanging a 60watt drop light in the UDC. Alternatively, fill the fresh tank during the day and run off the pump.
Is the Yeti option worthwhile? If you're going to be camping in sub-freezing weather, absolutely. Also, I've added additional cold weather features including heat tape on other water lines. Believe me, adding these features later is a big pain.
Btw, the confusion you've been reading about is related to Heartland Engineering making continual improvements. For those of us who have been on the forum for a while, unless we buy a new rig or get information from a new owner, or someone calls the factory, we're not sure what changes have been made. Also, the changes get rolled out on one brand, then later another brand may pick up those changes. So the implementation on a Landmark, Cyclone and Gateway may be a bit different.
You might want to take a look at our owner-written
Water Systems Winter Usage Guide for other tips on cold-weather camping.
