Problem fixed - told him to check the reset button on the 50 amp breaker which had popped. Reset it and he was good too go.
The breaker for the hydraulics is auto-reset. The only one that's ever manual reset is to the Power Converter/Fuse Box.Most likely popped the 50-amp breaker that feeds the hydraulic motor. No hydraulic power, no landing leg or slide movement. This will then lead to a rerun of the discussion of 50- vs 80-amp breaker.
I'm not sure if you're talking about the 50 amp manual reset 12V DC mini-breaker or a 120V AC breaker in the main panel inside.On my Big Horn, if the 50 amp breaker has popped, I cannot run the hydraulics unless my truck or the main power cable is connected. The 50 amp pops when I disconnect the main power without tripping of the breaker first, (did this only once when I first got the fifth wheel), or when I unplug at the house. My cable is long enough that when I pull the power cable from my house the breaker usually does not pop. I need to put a switch in the line. Another on my to do list.
I'm not sure if you're talking about the 50 amp manual reset 12V DC mini-breaker or a 120V AC breaker in the main panel inside.
Regardless, unless the battery has a problem, or has been drained and has not been recharging, it should be capable of operating the hydraulics.
the breaker is the 50A 12V. If it has tripped, the batteries are disconnected and will not power the hydraulics or charge the batteries. Being plugged in to the 120VAC or 12V from the truck will power the hydraulics.
Correct that the batteries will not get charged if the breaker is tripped. However, the hydraulics should get power from the battery even if the breaker is tripped. That is, if the battery has any power.
I've attached a general wiring diagram for the Residential Refrigerator in a Landmark along with a notated photo from a Landmark 365 buss bar. Bighorns should be very similar. The power from the battery goes to the buss bar and is shared across more than one 12V DC breaker. The breaker to the Power Converter can be tripped without interrupting power flow from batteries to the hydraulics pump and other devices.
So just a thought. If there is really no way of knowing that the power converter is not charging the batteries would a simple battery meter hooked to the batteries work in telling you that you have a charge going to them. The indications would be a voltage around 14 volts and not the usual 12 volts. If the converter tripped then the gauge would read 12 volts.
Yes I think that is a good Idea paired with a meter so you don't just have some crazy alarm going off and your scratching your head. It looks like the alarm may be adjustable so You may want to adjust when battery voltage gets around 11.5 volts. You can have two switches. One on the panel to turn it on and off and then it should be after the main battery disconnect. So when you turn your batteries off it will go off too and not read any more. I think this would be a good small addition to knowing your batteries are being charged by the converter when plugged in. It would also serve as a notice if your not getting a charge from the Tow vehicle as well.Maybe something like this? Of course if you set it too high, it'll also go off every time shore power is disconnected. Hmm, maybe that would be good. I'd guess you might want to have a switch on the hot wire so you could disable it.