Search results

Thanks. I'll try the 90 first. It's pretty tight in the UDC, but this looks small enough to not block the black tank flush inlet.

My Greystone 29BL had a leak in the front compartment by the UDC. Tore things apart and found the city water connection is leaking behind the UDC. My problem is that the hose that comes up into the UDC to connect to the inlet is too heavy and it pulls the water flange down and causes a leak...

I'll get another spare at the local tire shop as insurance for the next trip. But have less than 200 miles total to go before putting it in a shed for 5 months.

Heard back from Camping World this morning. They checked the axle, springs, etc. etc. Said they all checked out fine. Guess they finally checked the tire and said it had a broken belt that is the likely culprit. Not sure if that is something that is easy to detect with normal inspection, but...

Just got off the phone with Camping World. The tech said it was probably a bent spindle or camber(?) issue. They said it probably wasn't an axle problem because that would impact both tires and I only have a problem with one. Not sure how much it's going to cost to fix either of those issues...

I called the local tire shop and they didn't say anything about it being an alignment issue. They said it was either the axle or the bearings and that they don't work on either of those things. They are a tire shop only, so I'm assuming they wont' work on suspensions either. Probably have to...

Got home from a short trip (150 miles) this past weekend and went to put my tire covers on and noticed one of the tires had significant wear on the outside edge. Only 1 tire and only on the outer most tread. Tires were properly inflated to 80 psi. They are on a 2012 Greystone. Original from...

Looks like mine. Guess I'll get it all cleaned up and put back together. Thanks for checking.

Looks like those pictures are with the outside fitting attached with the seal in between. My picture was of the valve by itself. Pretty sure mine is a Valterra Bladex as well. The seals are pretty big and fit in snugly. Maybe that's enough. They do sell the valve piece separately. Found...

So, I'm trying to fix my leaking black tank and manage to get the valve out and cleaned up (as much as I could). It appears the valve has open spaces along both sides of the valve. Is this right? Seems like it would leak liquid, but maybe the seals cover this up enough to prevent a leak? The...

Re: More vavle problems Alright, I'm going to start out by apologizing to all. This was a simple fix. This is why I am an actuary and not a mechanic! If nothing else, I post this to help the next mechanically challenged individual. It is easier to put the valve back in between the fittings...

Re: More vavle problems At this point, I think it might be simplest to just cut one side of the clips off the valve assembly. Any thoughts if this would weaken the valve too much? The older valves don't have the clips, so I wouldn't think it would be big problem. The one side already has a...

Re: More vavle problems Not sure if you can make that out, but the right side of the pic is where the grey comes down and is glued to the 3" Y connector. The left side of the pic shows the 3" pipe going up to the black tank. Any cut would have to be further to the right side of this...

Re: More vavle problems Yep, this would require replacing almost my entire 3" line as well. The Y adapter is glued to the 3" connector, which is then glued to more curved sections of the 3" pipe. Basically, from this grey tank, all the way to the black tank is nothing but small pieces of...

Re: More vavle problems Not sure how I would replace the curved pipe. It is cemented in all the way to the 3" connector (2 pieces of curved pipe). The back of the valve assemble is pretty much glued right to the tank, so there is no room to cut there.

Re: More vavle problems Cutting isn't an option for me at this point. I would have to cut into my 3" pipe and replace the entire dump station. My crude drawing of the grey #1 setup. The grey pipe is less than a foot total before entering the 3" pipe assembly that connects to the dump...

Re: More vavle problems Alright, I gave up for the day. The valve is operating smoothly and closes completely. Now I'm struggling with getting the valve back into the pipe fittings. The actuated valves have a different end by the cable that has to go on the outside of the pipe fittings...

Yep, that's what I had to do. Used some pure silicon and lubed it up. Can open and close it with one finger now. Will try the same on the other two valves and hopefully that's it. That is if my back holds out long enough to fix the other two.

Alright, I managed to get the valve out. Not an easy task, especially since they let some of the glue glob up across the bottom of the valve assembly. I will post pics after I'm done, but have another question now. I've cleaned up the valve and have been working it back and forth to get some...

The video makes it look easy. I haven't tried this yet, but my pipes don't have any play in them to allow much wiggle room to remove the inner part of the valve assembly. And there is no straight pipe connected to the valve, so if I have to cut anything, it's almost a complete overhaul of the...

Re: More vavle problems Are you talking about just replacing the inner part of the valve and not the entire assembly? The pipe that connects to the valve assembly appears to be glued together.

Re: More vavle problems Tried this. All cables seem to operate fine. They do spring back when I push them in. I also checked the cable casings and all seems good there. My grey #2 (kitchen) has leaked since we bought it and the dealer said it was probably a piece of debris causing the...

Re: More vavle problems I've been messing with this a little more. I'll clarify that the black tank valve is easy to close by hand, but the Grey #1 is not (grey #2 seems easier). It seems to get progressively harder to close each time (or more likely, I'm getting more tired). The cable just...

Re: More vavle problems They've always been a little hard to operate, but seem to be getting worse. The handles shouldn't see any environmental exposure as they are inside the camper in the UDC and I always keep that door shut (and locked to prevent someone from pulling the cables as a joke)...

Re: More vavle problems I've read some of the other threads, but seems like the "solution" is to use a twist on valve and just deal with it. I already have one of those, but my problem is only getting worse. I don't want to end up with a plugged black tank because of a leak. I can push the...

Re: More vavle problems Open Valve "Closed" Valve Fully Closed after I push it

Long story short, all 3 of my waste valves are leaking. I have the actuated cable valves, and they are nothing but a pain in the you know what. I dropped part of the underbelly to get at the valves and I can see that when I pull and push the cable at the UDC, the valve only closes about half...

Thanks. We probably weren't measuring the element correctly. I was thinking it was the thermostat because it was working when I hit the reset, then failed a couple hours later. Then worked again after hitting reset and failed a couple hours later. Then after sitting for a week, it doesn't...

I should have clarified. I am mechanically/electrically challenged. What I stated probably was not accurate in terms of electrical language. The wires to the element were disconnected. Then tested these wires with the power on and got 122 volts. With the wires off (and power off), the...

I'm having the same problem (Suburban WH). Tested the element and it registered 10.22 ohms (assuming we used the tool correctly), which is below what the document in the link suggests. However, I've read other posts that say the reading should be 10-11 Ohms. Tested the wires and were getting...

Managed to get this fixed over the weekend. Seems to work, but will fully test it when I'm hooked up this weekend. Only had one of the mini clamps, so had to use a bigger one on the one end. Pretty cheap fix if it works. Ended up cutting some plywood in order to get to the back of the...

Not sure if you can see those. I think the cable is fine and still in the handle. It is the black casing, or whatever you want to call it, that came out of the metal handle part. Supposedly, that is just "crimped" in the metal part.

Based on previous threads, I think this will be a simple question for the people who are more mechanically inclined than myself. The cable that goes into the pull handle for my black tank valve came out of the metal piece that is attached to the pull handle (if that makes sense). Seems like...

I think I'm done for the night. I'll let her run off propane and do more investigating tomorrow when I have natural light to work with. Thanks for your responses.

GFI's are fine, nothing tripped. Fuses are all good. If I turn the propane off, the "check" light comes on immediately. From what Dan is saying, my fridge doesn't work on electrical at all. Which would explain why I burned through more than a tank of propane. What do I check next?

The fridge is on one of the "main" breakers. All breakers and fuses are good in the camper. I will have to do some research on the wiring schematic. I'm not really good with electrical problems, so I'm lost. Is there a reason that the propane needs to be on if the electrical is hooked up...

Thanks Dan. I don't know the model right off hand. It is a Dometic. Camper is a 2012. I only have 2 choices when running my fridge, Auto or Propane. I checked the outlet and breaker and all seem to be running fine. So it must be something with the wiring to the fridge. Any advice for...

So I went into my camper today to throw a new box of baking soda in the fridge. Much to my surprise, the "Check" light was lit and the fridge was not running. Went around to the propane tanks and sure enough, the tank was empty. I switched to the other tank and everything seems to be working...

I don't know what those are or where they are at. I would be interested if you would be close to Iowa.