Actuated Valve Cable Repair

[gotlieb]

Based on previous threads, I think this will be a simple question for the people who are more mechanically inclined than myself.

The cable that goes into the pull handle for my black tank valve came out of the metal piece that is attached to the pull handle (if that makes sense). Seems like this cable is just "crimped" in this metal piece and the crimping came loose and the cable pulled out.

My question is, what type of tool do I need to crimp the metal piece to hold the cable? Or is that not possible and I need to buy a whole new cable unit?

For clarification, the issue is at the handle in the UDC, which I wish I would have looked at first before I cut open the belly and explored around.

Thanks

 

[porthole]

Not sure exactly what you are talking about without a picture.

But, one repair for cable issues was to push the cable back together, take a piece of threaded rod (Home Depot etc), 2 hose clamps and attach the rod like a leg splint across the section that came apart. Use the two hose clamps to secure the rod to the cable. The threads dig into the cable to hold it together.

 

[jnbhobe]

Sounds like he pulled the cable out of the handle. I don't know of a fix for that end.

 

[gotlieb]

 

[gotlieb]

Not sure if you can see those. I think the cable is fine and still in the handle. It is the black casing, or whatever you want to call it, that came out of the metal handle part. Supposedly, that is just "crimped" in the metal part.

 

[jnbhobe]

The fix Duane mentioned is the best fix for that without replacing the cable.

 

[jimtoo]

This is what Duane is talking about I think. It works really good. Of course you will need to install the handle in the hole with nut on it first and then do the repair.



Jim M

 

[jnbhobe]

Thats the one and Jims the one who origanlly posted it

 

[gotlieb]

Managed to get this fixed over the weekend. Seems to work, but will fully test it when I'm hooked up this weekend. Only had one of the mini clamps, so had to use a bigger one on the one end. Pretty cheap fix if it works. Ended up cutting some plywood in order to get to the back of the station easier than using the 1ft x 1ft opening they give you to reach the pump bypass valves. Pretty nervous cutting with a sawsall with all the hoses back there, but think it worked out.

Thanks for the help!

 

[porthole]

The odds are good it will still be that way when you trade it in.

 

[jimtoo]

Your repair looks good. I might suggest since there is a curve in the cable that you add another mini clamp on the cable end, the big clamp on the handle end is OK.

That will probably hold better than the single crimp from the cable maker. Fixed many a cable like that on tractors, 18 wheelers and other equipment.

Jim M

 

[chasdvorak]

I had the same problem 2 years ago and used the same method t0 secure the cable. For added protection, I covered both clamps and the rod with some of that epoxy putty/weld. The putty becomes solid within a few minutes and is rock hard within a day or so....it might be some overkill but it really ties the cable housing to the pull handle.

This fix has worked well but its' time to replace 2 of the 3 pull cables. Short story is that I have had a black water valve problem from the get go and it appears I may have a gray water leak too. Thanks to forum members, I followed the suggestion for using the twist on valve at the end cap to eliminate the possibility of spilling you-know-what all over the place. This extra valve is a great fix and should be used or at least carried in your coach for the inevitable time that you need it.

That said, 2 of the pull cables are getting really tight so I thought I'd better replace them before they break down. I also thought it would be a good idea to replace all 3 valves and cables at the same time. Thanks in advance for the great posts on valve replacements. I purchased the parts directly from Heartland and took advantage of the HOC discount which made the Valtera valves as competitive as the online competitors. I did some advanced planning and located the valves under the belly. I also purchased the rubber boots to spice the pipes (if necessary) since it looked like a good idea for future repairs.

I could use some advice on running the cables. The original cables are too long and had several twists in the excess area. I'd like to cut them to a more appropriate size and tie them down with zip ties to promote a smoother pull. Any suggestions on tools or methods to cut the cable and cable housing would be greatly appreciated. I'll try to take some photo's if possible, but the valves appear to be tucked in pretty close to the holding tanks and frame.

As always, thanks in advance for the help

 

[chasdvorak]

Quick follow-up. The addition of the epoxy putty was definitely unnecessary overkill. I tried to replace this cable and was unable to pull the cable out because the added epoxy was too large to make it through the hole. It was a real pain to try and hacksaw that thing off in the tight quarters behind the UDC compartment. The clamps and screw are sufficient for this repair.

Search "How did you cut the dump valve cable???" For additional info on valve and pull cable replacement. I posted info about this type of repair which I completed last week.

Safe Travels,

Chuck

 

[ziggy]

This thread and an HL friend saved our trip. Once again the forum and our friends from HOC came to the rescue and saved us a bunch of time and money. Now we carry these parts in case we come across someone else who needs this fix.

Kristy

 

[mobilcastle]

I carry a dremel to cut metal in confined area. Works well with a cutoff wheel.