50A Shore power at home

Sierra66

Active Member
We just moved up to a 50A camper and my 30A power at home isn't going to cut it. Is my understanding correct:

50A service is now a 4 wire ordeal with 2 (two) hot 120 legs, a common and a ground....

I believe the camper uses one leg for half and the other for, say, the AC

i am planning to use #6-4 so cable and run from my panel with a 50A double pole breaker.

Anyone have 2 cents to throw my way?
 

gwalter

Retired Colorado Chapter Leaders
I use 30 amp at home for my 50 amp camper. You can do most anything except run 2 AC units at same time. All you need is a 30-50 amp adapter.
 

Doublegranch

Mountain Region Director-Retired
X2 with last post.....I have a 30Amp at the barn that I used for my previous North Trail and now for my 50 Amp Sundance. No issues thus far....I never use a microwave and when cleaning the inside will run one AC.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
We just moved up to a 50A camper and my 30A power at home isn't going to cut it. Is my understanding correct:

50A service is now a 4 wire ordeal with 2 (two) hot 120 legs, a common and a ground....

I believe the camper uses one leg for half and the other for, say, the AC

i am planning to use #6-4 so cable and run from my panel with a 50A double pole breaker.

Anyone have 2 cents to throw my way?


For house and building wiring 50A requires 4ga wire. Code requires this. The RV industry isn't held to this. 6ga for 50 amp is approved for box/cabinet wiring where the length is short. The RV industry gets by because you will never use 50A on ether leg of the power supplied. Max so far I have ever drawn has been 38 amps on one leg. So if you want to meet code use 4 gage wire. It doesn't cost much more, but it is much stiffer to work with.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
I've never tried to run the AC on the 20 amp circuit at the house . . .

Always thought I'd pop the breaker, so never tried.

Is it OK to do so?
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
I've never tried to run the AC on the 20 amp circuit at the house . . .

Always though I'd pop the breaker.

Is it OK to do so?

Not a problem. I do so to run the lights and get the refrigerator cold before loading it. Just don't try and run the air conditioners or the electric heater in the fireplace. Mine is a 15 amp circuit. Keep the draw low and not a problem.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Not a problem. I do so to run the lights and get the refrigerator cold before loading it. Just don't try and run the air conditioners or the electric heater in the fireplace. Mine is a 15 amp circuit. Keep the draw low and not a problem.

I always have the Prowler plugged in at the house.

We do everything at the house, including run the refrigerator with it plugged in at the house.

I've even run the AC fan (with AC off) to blow out the heat.

I just haven't run the AC.
 

Doublegranch

Mountain Region Director-Retired
Before installing the 30 amp box, I ran my North Trail AC on the 20 amp barn plug. Never had a problem..
I have not tried it on the Sundance.
 

Mattman

Well-known member
#6 Copper can be good for 60amps + depending on what and how your using it. I would suggest you go 10/4 and use a 30amp 2pole breaker. You can still use your 50 amp receptacle and plug in with out an adapter. The rating is only a max use so you can run something lower. 30amp. The 2 pole 30 is much cheaper than a 50 and the #10 is cheaper and eassier to work with.
Just be sure to use a 2 pole breaker either way you go.
That's what I would do. My 2 pennies
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
If you run #6 wire you would be best served protecting it with a 40 amp breaker.
You will not need to use #6 for the ground. #8 or #10 would probably be fine for a ground.
Perhaps an electrician can chime in with the correct ground size.

Peace
Dave
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
X 3 here. 30amp is more then enough to run your RV even 2 AC's. If you have 30amp already I wouldn't change a thing. If your starting from scratch go 50amp all the way.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
The only thing I will add is Make sure the 50-30 amp "dog bone" supplies power to both legs of the breaker panel. Some don't. I ran mine on 20 amps for many years and then on 30 amps with out any issues.
 

lynndiwagoner

Well-known member
I like the idea of running the #10 wire and using a 30 double pole breaker. My run was short and I bought #4THW (single wires) and ran four of them. One red, One Black, One white and One green. 50A double breaker in the box. Of course the wire was in a conduit.
 

HornedToad

Well-known member
For house and building wiring 50A requires 4ga wire. Code requires this. The RV industry isn't held to this. 6ga for 50 amp is approved for box/cabinet wiring where the length is short. The RV industry gets by because you will never use 50A on ether leg of the power supplied. Max so far I have ever drawn has been 38 amps on one leg. So if you want to meet code use 4 gage wire. It doesn't cost much more, but it is much stiffer to work with.

Even if you can get by with the 6 gauge wire I would install it up to the local building code because if you ever sell the house and the buyer orders a property inspection it could be noted as a deficiency.

I put a 50 amp plug in when we built our house...
 

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TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Even if you can get by with the 6 gauge wire I would install it up to the local building code because if you ever sell the house and the buyer orders a property inspection it could be noted as a deficiency.

I put a 50 amp plug in when we built our house...

Nice! Where's the guest pad hookups?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Mattman

Well-known member
If you go full 50 amps, #8 thhn in conduit is code compliant. 2 runs black, 1 white, 1 #10 green. 2 pole 50 breaker. That will cover your wiring. The install it's self has many factors to weather it is legal or not. All electrical installations do require a permit. Just to note. If you burn your house \ camper down they will ask who installed it. Just to note.
 

"Hi-Viz" Bill

Well-known member
Jonathan !! That's the EXACT way I did it just a month ago to power up my NEW 2016 LM 365 Newport at home !! It works beautifully !!
 

jrdelung

Active Member
Just installed 4-wire #6 (underground in conduit) to a 50A dedicated breaker (box) this week with less than a 30 foot run from a 100A.

Running both AC units while loading 5er is a MUST in Phoenix!
 
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mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Remember the 50 amp 6ga is for box or console wiring. Very short lengths. 50 amp 4ga is required for building wiring. Yes you can get away with less, but code is there for a reason. Calculate the resistance of the length of wire used and max amperage for solid gauge wire you are using. Current times resistance. Multiply by the current again and get the wattage you are applying across the wire length. Times the number of conductors. Now you will realize why number 4 is used for building wiring and 6 is used for box or console wiring. If your runs are shout you can get away with it, but it will not be code. The wire gauge must be sized for the application, box vs building, and circuit breaker used not the current one is expected to draw.

30 gauge solid wire has a resistance of .3951 ohms per 1000 ft. That is 359.1 micro ohms per foot. Times 30 feet equals 10.773 mili ohms. Times 50 amps equals .53865 volts. Times 50 amps equals 26.9325 watts for just one lead of 30 feet of 30 gauge wire at 50 amps. You are not smart just because it works. Code is there for a reason.
 
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