5th Wheel Hitch Recommendations?

gotlieb

Active Member
Looking for any recommendations on 5th wheel hitches. B&W, Reese, Curt, Hijacker? For the standard 16K hitch, which one would be the best buy?

Also, I have a 2011 Silverado 2500HD crew cab with the 6.5 foot box. One hitch dealer recommended a slider hitch. Is that really needed for the 6.5 foot box? The new Heartlands describe an 88 degree turning radius and the dealer said you can get 90 degrees out of a slider hitch. Are the extra 2 degrees that important?

As background, I have no prior experience driving a 5er. Current camper (hopefully delivered soon) is a 2012 Greystone 29BL.

Thanks!
 

Sandie

Well-known member
We have a Husky and have never had any issues with it. It is a slider but we have never needed to use it on our old fiver or the Heartland.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
gotlieb, I feel all the basic 16K hitches are comparable. I would stay away from the type hitch that a bar slides in behind the pin. They tend to be very loose and you'll feel quite a bit of movement while towing/ On the other side of that problem, it is a very secure method of locking the pin. I have a Reese 16K with the 4 way tilt.
Slider? My opinion is not to get one. Extra money and not really needed with the Heartland cap design. Happy shopping!
 

dfowler

Member
When I first purchased my 5th wheel (Heartland Sundance), I had a "regular" hitch, a Reese 1500. The first time out, on a sharp turn while backing, the Sundance hit the back of my truck, by the rear window, putting a good sized dent in the truck. I have a 2006 Dodge 2500 with a 6.5 ft. bed. The 88 degree turn advertised by the manufacturer did not work for me. I then had a Pull Rite slider hitch installed. I have had no problems since. As for the movement while towing, I have not experienced that. I have not had to worry about turning since it was installed.
 

n2snow2

Member
Looking for any recommendations on 5th wheel hitches. B&W, Reese, Curt, Hijacker? For the standard 16K hitch, which one would be the best buy?

Also, I have a 2011 Silverado 2500HD crew cab with the 6.5 foot box. One hitch dealer recommended a slider hitch. Is that really needed for the 6.5 foot box? The new Heartlands describe an 88 degree turning radius and the dealer said you can get 90 degrees out of a slider hitch. Are the extra 2 degrees that important?

As background, I have no prior experience driving a 5er. Current camper (hopefully delivered soon) is a 2012 Greystone 29BL.

Thanks!
i have basicly the same truck gas with the pullrite autoslider wouldnt of went any other way dealer said i didnt need it i never had a fithwheel or camper before but worth the money07 and bighorn.jpg
 

FordMan1966

Well-known member
Had a Husky with a Slider in my Short Bed F350. Now I have a B&W in my F350 Long Bed DRW, I really like it but not recommended for a Short Bed Truck. However I never had to use my Slider in the Short Bed Trucks.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
I have a Husky 16K slider. Never used the slider with the Horn even when I had a short box Chevy. Have a long box now. What I dont like about sliders is they have some movement and you can feel it starting and stopping. JMHO
 

dave10a

Well-known member
Here is a link that might be helpful. http://www.comparetrailerhitches.com/about_rating_fifth.html

I have a Reese 20K that has worked well, but its head does not stay level while connecting which is a problem for backing to properly align the pin to hitch. I had to put a piece of foam rubber under the head to keep it level while backing. It is also a manual slider that can be difficult to slide at time. However, I have not needed to slide it so far, but remember 88 deg is not 90 deg which is considered jack knife-- which could happen. If I had to select another hitch, I think I would look a little harder next time. Reese did replace my hitch head because it had a manufacturing defect. Reese stood behind it well, but the dealer was another issue.
 

SeldomSeen

Member
I have a 2011 29 MK Greystone and pull it with a 2012 Ford 6.2 gasser. I have a 16K Valley slider and use the slider to get into difficult parking spots, like where I store my unit. I have always had a short bed truck and always used a slider hitch, Husky before the Valley and loved both. They both worked fine for me and I never worried about putting a crease in my front end cap.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
I have a Reese 20K that has worked well, but its head does not stay level while connecting which is a problem for backing to properly align the pin to hitch. I had to put a piece of foam rubber under the head to keep it level while backing.
Dave, try lowering the trailer a bit so that the tapered portion at the rear edge of the hitch, contacts the pin. It should self level side to side. When I hook up, i leave the pin about an inch lower than the hitch.
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
I have a Pull-Rite Super Glide. It's the 15K model that fits in the standard rails like most other hitches. It took awhile to learn to use it. They're pretty fussy regarding pin height when coupling and uncoupling. It's made very well and is American made. They also make a line of non-sliding hitches. Shop online and check the prices against your local dealers. There could be a big difference. I'm don't know if I really need a slider but I got one and don't need to worry about hitting the cab...Don
 

caissiel

Senior Member
I pulled an SOB 5th wheel for 13 years with a standard Bed (Short Bed) GM trucks and never touch the cab. Though I did see many Rams with cab dents and the coments were why I never hit mine. The GM`s have the longest cab to axle distance of the 3 or of all the trucks with standard(short Boxes) . I have a Long box Ford because Ford is also shorter and I was not going to hit my cab. Our Heartland units do have better turning radius so GM for sure will never be a problem. And the 2000 and up GM`s have 2in more distance then my pre 2000 models I had. But I never measured the latest GM Model. The axles on GM is rear of box center while the Ram and Fords are forward of axle for some unknown reason. And installing the 5th wheel hitch behind the axle is not in my books and plans.
 

gotlieb

Active Member
Thanks everybody. I went with the Hijacker hitch. Mainly because I could get it at cost and not pay mark-up through the shop. Hoping everything works out, but found out my 2011 Silverado needs a special bracket for this hitch, an extra $200. Not sure on that one...
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
A reese signature hitch is made to fit the f350 but there are others

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

westxsrt10

Perfict Senior Member
Here is a link that might be helpful. http://www.comparetrailerhitches.com/about_rating_fifth.html

I have a Reese 20K that has worked well, but its head does not stay level while connecting which is a problem for backing to properly align the pin to hitch. I had to put a piece of foam rubber under the head to keep it level while backing. It is also a manual slider that can be difficult to slide at time. However, I have not needed to slide it so far, but remember 88 deg is not 90 deg which is considered jack knife-- which could happen. If I had to select another hitch, I think I would look a little harder next time. Reese did replace my hitch head because it had a manufacturing defect. Reese stood behind it well, but the dealer was another issue.

I had the same problem with my Reese 15K, the front to back movement (tilting) while hitching made it difficult to hitch alone. I took your advise and glued some dense backing foam under the head unit. The head still tilts but dosnt 'flop' forward 3" while backing up all of a sudden, hitch pin lines up much better now.
 

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beardedone

Beardedone
Thanks everybody. I went with the Hijacker hitch. Mainly because I could get it at cost and not pay mark-up through the shop. Hoping everything works out, but found out my 2011 Silverado needs a special bracket for this hitch, an extra $200. Not sure on that one...

I have a 21,000 Hijacker and didn't need anything extra to install it. Maybe you should check the manufacturer's website to get full details on your model.
 

Duramax1

Well-known member
Dave, try lowering the trailer a bit so that the tapered portion at the rear edge of the hitch, contacts the pin. It should self level side to side. When I hook up, i leave the pin about an inch lower than the hitch.

X2

In fact if you look at the hitch in the back of your truck, you will see instructions on a label which also includes a diagram showing exactly this...... the tapered portion on the rear of the hitch is the landing pad for the 5th wheel pin. After contact is made everthing is self leveling... ie side to side and back to front.
 
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