ATF: Cyclone - 300C rides to high in front - Is there a shorter pin box?

Hello,

I raised the LIPP1621HD pin box to the highest position so that it would ride level, but it still rides too high in the front. My F-250 is stock and not lifted so I am surprised the trailer rides high in the front. I noticed this trailer starts to fishtail with only a 900 lb golf cart in the garage. No other cargo in the garage. My slider hitch has no option to lower. Is there is alternate pin box that is shorter?
 

gpshemi

Well-known member
Not sure what hitch you have, you'd have to check with the manufacturer of the hitch, but I had to lower the springs on the shackles in order to get some more height in the back. You may want to look into that.

A quick note on that if you decide to go that route, the shackle bolts have serations at the head. They do not spin out. You'll need to drive them out while being carefull of the threads. I had mine done in conjunction with having my axles aligned.
 

mattpopp

Trouble Maker
Hello,

I raised the LIPP1621HD pin box to the highest position so that it would ride level, but it still rides too high in the front. My F-250 is stock and not lifted so I am surprised the trailer rides high in the front. I noticed this trailer starts to fishtail with only a 900 lb golf cart in the garage. No other cargo in the garage. My slider hitch has no option to lower. Is there is alternate pin box that is shorter?

The fish tailing is just a known issue with the 300c.

But you don't need a slider hitch with the Cyclone trailer and short box. Maybe look a replacing it with a ridge hitch that you can lower. Raising your trailer over the trailer axles may hurt you more then helping from leveling it. May get more flex in the frame from the added torque generated from the greater distance between the chassis and trailer axles. Which would turn into fish tailing.


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Mizmary

Well-known member
Have you weighed with the golf cart loaded to your actual loaded pin weight? Maybe putting some more weight/cargo forward of the axles? Just a thought / though I'm sure you've thought of it?
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Can you lower your hitch plate in your truck? I know mine has a number of vertical bolt holes, but again with the serrated head bolts that need to be pressed (pounded) out with the nut in place on the ends to protect the end threads. Cinching the nuts on the bolts down to specified torque seats the serrated heads.
 
Thanks for all the tips. My hitch is a Pullrite superglide 4100 with no height adjustments. I called Pullrite to be sure I wasn't missing something and they told me there is no adjustment with sliders. They said my hitch is the lowest of all their models. I am tempted to see if I can get rid of the slider. My last 5th wheel required the slide with my short bed, but everyone says the Cyclone TI don't need a slider. I'd hate to find out the hard way with a dented truck or trailer. If I got a fixed hitch I'd surely get one with height adjustments which would be the easiest solution since the pin box was moved to the highest position. Can anyone of the forum confirm the TI doesn't need a slider? I have a 2009 Ford F-250 SWD short bed.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Had a short bed Chevy....never needed the slider. I replaced the supports with non-slide ones and scraped the slide part.
 

mattpopp

Trouble Maker
I had no issue pulling my 300c when I had my Dodge Mega Cab. It had the short box as well. That was with the B&W comp hitch.


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gpshemi

Well-known member
Depends on the hitch I'm sure. Just cautioning people when saying it'll clear because of the Cyclone's nose. I have a picture of a Ford somewhere around here, where the trailer certainly does NOT clear without a slider. Must be whatever super short box they make. Megacab works though via the math, but still makes me nervous.

Megacab box length is 6'3" (75").
Assuming a B&W mounts the same as a Superglide, it install is 54" off the back of the cab when you do the math.
Cyclone's are 8'5" wide. (101"). Take half the width, you get 50.5" on either side of the pin.

That gives 3.5" clearance when turned on level ground. Turn a corner or back up on an offset drive, unlevel ground, curb, whatever, and you could touch the cab towards the top I think. Now the Superglide moves back 14"...so you'll miss by a mile.
 
I think I will stay with my Pullrite slider hitch investment. Its given me peace of mind. I just need to find a way to lower the front of the trailer an inch or two.
Depends on the hitch I'm sure. Just cautioning people when saying it'll clear because of the Cyclone's nose. I have a picture of a Ford somewhere around here, where the trailer certainly does NOT clear without a slider. Must be whatever super short box they make. Megacab works though via the math, but still makes me nervous.

Megacab box length is 6'3" (75").
Assuming a B&W mounts the same as a Superglide, it install is 54" off the back of the cab when you do the math.
Cyclone's are 8'5" wide. (101"). Take half the width, you get 50.5" on either side of the pin.

That gives 3.5" clearance when turned on level ground. Turn a corner or back up on an offset drive, unlevel ground, curb, whatever, and you could touch the cab towards the top I think. Now the Superglide moves back 14"...so you'll miss by a mile.
 

mattpopp

Trouble Maker
Depends on the hitch I'm sure. Just cautioning people when saying it'll clear because of the Cyclone's nose. I have a picture of a Ford somewhere around here, where the trailer certainly does NOT clear without a slider. Must be whatever super short box they make. Megacab works though via the math, but still makes me nervous.

Megacab box length is 6'3" (75").
Assuming a B&W mounts the same as a Superglide, it install is 54" off the back of the cab when you do the math.
Cyclone's are 8'5" wide. (101"). Take half the width, you get 50.5" on either side of the pin.

That gives 3.5" clearance when turned on level ground. Turn a corner or back up on an offset drive, unlevel ground, curb, whatever, and you could touch the cab towards the top I think. Now the Superglide moves back 14"...so you'll miss by a mile.

You'll miss by a mile without a slider as well. Thanks to the nose cap that heartland uses on these trailers. Your assumption is flawed as it assumes the nose cap is squared.


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mattpopp

Trouble Maker
When you did the cross members. Did you tie them in straight across or did you cross them? This is next on the list of to do items. The sway is horrible on mine. The 17.5's didn't help like I was hoping.


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CrazyCooter

Well-known member
mattpopacross90 said:
When you did the cross members. Did you tie them in straight across or did you cross them? This is next on the list of to do items. The sway is horrible on mine. The 17.5's didn't help like I was hoping.


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I went strait across and have done over 60 others the same. Go outside and shake your rig side to side at the rear....you will see what I'm talking about.
 
Crazycooter - Do you have a RV shop? You mention 60 others? I need to either raise my 300C, lower my truck or change to a non slider hitch that allows me to lower the hitch. I can't decide what is the best choice. Also need to replace the towmax tires.
 

CrazyCooter

Well-known member
Crazycooter - Do you have a RV shop? You mention 60 others? I need to either raise my 300C, lower my truck or change to a non slider hitch that allows me to lower the hitch. I can't decide what is the best choice. Also need to replace the towmax tires.

I have a chassis/drivetrain shop. I like to modify off road toys, so the RV chassis mods come with the territory.
 
I'm in Temecula, CA. Are you in S Cal area? I am trying to find the correct spacers and u Bolts to raise my 300C axles at the springs. Just heard that lowering my F-250 will reduced its load capacity so my only option is change hitch to one with height adjustment or raise the trailer.
 

gpshemi

Well-known member
I swapped out my failed towmax for Bridgestone R250's and picked up a little in hieght. That'll help.
 
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