Auxiliary fuel/ toolbox combo

[mattpopp]

That would be me.
I installed the racing fuel pump in order to speed the time it took to refill the tank. Unfortunately I still have the overflow problem and if I'm not careful I can pump fuel past the main tank filler cap. This happened with or without the pump. I need to add a timer or something to remind me that I'm transferring fuel to avoid spills.
I can say that that if I start refilling the main tank before I get below a ¼ tank the fuel gauge and computer do not get confused.

You can buy relays with adjustable timers built in. So once you flip the switch it will only supply power for the set time. On a transfer pump I think one minute would be safe or set it up to pump 1/2 of you factory tank based on the flow rate of the pump. Which could be 2,3,or 4 minutes.

 

[davebennington]

Hey guys,

I too have had the problems of dumping fuel on the ground. Since then I installed a pump and a solenoid switch and a electric gauge in the RDS 60 gallon tank, I can watch the fuel being transferred as I drive.


dave

 

[scottyb]

Hey guys,

I too have had the problems of dumping fuel on the ground. Since then I installed a pump and a solenoid switch and a electric gauge in the RDS 60 gallon tank, I can watch the fuel being transferred as I drive.


dave

Where did you get your solenoid valve and guage? I purchased one from Amazon, but it got very hot to the touch when open. I sent it back for a refund. I have not had much luck finding one. Did a Google search, checked Grainger, and called local suppliers. I have everything ready to go, just need a good solenoid valve.

Mine doesn't dump fuel on the ground, but it makes my computer go haywire and the fuel guage goes to Empty, if I leave it on.

 

[jnbhobe]

Where did you get your solenoid valve and guage? I purchased one from Amazon, but it got very hot to the touch when open. I sent it back for a refund. I have not had much luck finding one. Did a Google search, checked Grainger, and called local suppliers. I have everything ready to go, just need a good solenoid valve

I have a valve from http://www.stcvalve.com/ works good with no problems. Its hooked to an RDS tank and one of my upfitter switches and into the filler pipe. It doesn't interfear with the computer either.

 

[Speedy]

With the solenoid type fuel pumps a shutoff valve is not needed. The pump will not flow fuel when not on.

I have tried the cellphone timer trick and it works great. No fuel spills in 195 gallions on this trip.

 

[davebennington]

Sorry about the delay in answering. I got the gauge and sender from JC Whitney, the fuel pump, solenoid valve and switch from local NAPA store.

The reason I did the pump and solenoid valve was a little like wearing a belt and suspenders, just being overly careful.

dave

 

[scottyb]

With the solenoid type fuel pumps a shutoff valve is not needed. The pump will not flow fuel when not on.

I have tried the cellphone timer trick and it works great. No fuel spills in 195 gallions on this trip.

OK, so the fuel pump has a built-in solenoid, and will not allow gravity flow past it when off. This is something I had considered, but wasn't sure about. Thanks

 

[JonV]

I can find all sorts of tanks for diesels. Is there an aftermarket "large" tank for gas engines, if not, why?

I know "gas jobs" are in the minority when it comes to TV, but just a half-ton hauler.

Transfer Flow has tanks for gasoline, I don't know who else might have them. I've got a transfer Flow tank for my diesel and am impressed by their quality and support.

This is my first add-on fuel tank. I searched online quite a while before making a choice. I can't imagine worrying about overfilling the factory tank with manually operated pumps and/or valves. The electronic Transfer Flow system connects to the factory fuel sending unit, senses when the tank is down to 1/2 then automatically starts refilling the tank. When the factory tank shows 3/4 full the system shuts down. If the OEM tank gets below 1/2 and stays there you know it's time to look for fuel.

We spend a considerable amount of money on these RV's and tow vehicles and I figured that spending a few extra dollars on a good quality, fool proof fuel system is worth the bother. I shudder when I think of fuel spills.

 

[desertden]

I had the Transfer Flow 50 gal diesel aux with toolbox installed in my F350 and have had great service for 6 years. The monitor that mounts on the dash displays the amount of fuel in the main and aux tank in digital format and constantly runs autotests flashing "System OK" every few seconds. It displays "Pump On" when transfering fuel from the aux to the main keeping the level in the two tanks approximately equal as you are running. When the level in both tanks gets low, the controller pumps the aux dry before the main so that if you are running low, you will not empty the main tank before you find a fuel station. My Ford Dealer has said nothing about this voiding any warranty. It is a great comfort when towing out here in the west where there are more spaces than places to see the trucks fuel gauge move up when the pump is running and you are crusing down the road.

 

[pegmikef]

I had the Transfer Flow 50 gal diesel aux with toolbox installed in my F350. . .

I just had the same tank installed in my new F350 and so far everything is working great. I explicitly verified with the dealer that this would not affect the warranty.

 

[choprpilot76]

ATI Tanks ( www.atitank.com ) will custom build a tank to your specs, gravity fed to the factory tank. I am looking for a tank that will get me the most volume of extra diesel forward of the fifth wheel hitch yet stay well below the bed line so I can fold my hard flip top Tonneau cover over it. I called for a quote on a 55"L x 34"W x 15"H, they haven't called me back with the price yet. By my calculations it should approximately 100 gallons. I agree with the others, I would rather fill up when I want to, not because I have to, and be forced to pay ridiculous rates. Just 20-30 cents per gallon difference at 137 gallons a fill-up saves quite a bit of money per fill-up. Yes it will be a lot of money at once, but that's just a simple matter of "pay me now or pay me later". You're gonna need the gas to get from A to B no matter what.

 

[2psnapod2]

Can you come back once you get an estimate? Would like to know for the next truck!

ATI Tanks ( www.atitank.com ) will custom build a tank to your specs, gravity fed to the factory tank. I am looking for a tank that will get me the most volume of extra diesel forward of the fifth wheel hitch yet stay well below the bed line so I can fold my hard flip top Tonneau cover over it. I called for a quote on a 55"L x 34"W x 15"H, they haven't called me back with the price yet. By my calculations it should approximately 100 gallons. I agree with the others, I would rather fill up when I want to, because I have to, and be forced to pay ridiculous rates. Just 20-30 cents per gallon difference at 137 gallons a fill-up saves quite a bit of money per fill-up. Yes it will be a lot of money at once, but that's just a simple matter of "pay me now or pay me later". You're gonna need the gas to get from A to B no matter what.

 

[choprpilot76]

I definitely will 2psnapod2.

Can you come back once you get an estimate? Would like to know for the next truck!

 

[TravelTiger]

ATI Tanks ( www.atitank.com ) will custom build a tank to your specs, gravity fed to the factory tank. I am looking for a tank that will get me the most volume of extra diesel forward of the fifth wheel hitch yet stay well below the bed line so I can fold my hard flip top Tonneau cover over it. I called for a quote on a 55"L x 34"W x 15"H, they haven't called me back with the price yet. By my calculations it should approximately 100 gallons. I agree with the others, I would rather fill up when I want to, not because I have to, and be forced to pay ridiculous rates. Just 20-30 cents per gallon difference at 137 gallons a fill-up saves quite a bit of money per fill-up. Yes it will be a lot of money at once, but that's just a simple matter of "pay me now or pay me later". You're gonna need the gas to get from A to B no matter what.

If you are having it custom made, you might ask about a notch or angle at the back so you can see your hitch. We did not consider when we added 115gal tank. He can't see the hitch head from the cab. We have a piece of tape to help align.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[choprpilot76]

If you are having it custom made, you might ask about a notch or angle at the back so you can see your hitch. We did not consider when we added 115gal tank. He can't see the hitch head from the cab. We have a piece of tape to help align.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice heads-up, I will look into that, thanks.

 

[Speedy]

Also keep in mind that 100 gallons of fuel will add close to 700 lbs. of weight in your bed; you may exceed your RAWR.

 

[choprpilot76]

Can you come back once you get an estimate? Would like to know for the next truck!

I got the quote back for the custom tank from ATI. Just the tank and filler cap is $799 and shipping is $131.14. Extras are a locking gas cap for $9.99, black powder coating for $135, fuel gauge on the tank for $75, and a sending unit and fuel gauge to the inside cab of the truck is $125.

 

[choprpilot76]

Also keep in mind that 100 gallons of fuel will add close to 700 lbs. of weight in your bed; you may exceed your RAWR.

Speedy, my F350) Dually RAWR is 9000lbs, shouldn't I be good? The hitch weight on the brochure for the 4100 says 3000lbs, from seeing other peoples posts, they say loaded they are actually more like around the mid 4000's (@4500lbs). So I future 715lbs more of fuel in the aux tank plus the weight of the tank @160lbs for a total added weight of @ 875lbs. Am I forgetting something, because be my calculations I should over 3500lbs to spare. The only thing I know I need to consider is the weight of the back half of the truck sitting on the axles correct, but not the weight of the axle itself. The sticker Rear GAWR is 9000lbs, and the weight of the axle itself does not factor into the load limit or subtract from it. I have gone to the fifthwheelst.com website and I am in the process of trying to figure all these numbers out.

 

[choprpilot76]

Also keep in mind that 100 gallons of fuel will add close to 700 lbs. of weight in your bed; you may exceed your RAWR.

Speedy, I just got back from the scales and here are my numbers, this is base weight, full tank no passengers. Front axle weighed 4960lbs, Rear axle weighed 3840lbs, and the whole truck weight 8780lbs (not sure about the 20lb difference when totaled), lol. So, my rear GAWR is 9k, this gives me a margin of 5160lbs, I averaged the aux tank, with fuel and the weight of the tank to be @850lbs, leaving 4310 left over for the weight of the hitch receiver itself and pin weight. I am thinking I should be good, close to the limit when all is said in done, but technically under. I am estimating @650lbs total passenger weight (which will be distributed between the two axles of course). How's my math?

 

[pegmikef]

Speedy, I just got back from the scales and here are my numbers, this is base weight, full tank no passengers. Front axle weighed 4960lbs, Rear axle weighed 3840lbs, and the whole truck weight 8780lbs (not sure about the 20lb difference when totaled, lol. So, my rear GAWR is 9k, this gives me a margin of 5160lbs, I averaged the aux tank, with fuel and the weight of the tank to be @850lbs, leaving 4310 left over for the weight of the hitch receiver itself and pin weight. I am thinking I should be good, close to the limit when all is said in done, but technically under. I am estimating @650lbs total passenger weight (which will be distributed between the two axles one course). How's my math?

I don't know how your math is, but I really like it because I put in a fify gallon (350 pounds) tank/toolbox combo and the dry pin weight on mine is purported to be 2115 lbs and my GAWR is actually 9640 pounds, so everything else being the same, I should be really ok. Thankis, Mike