Bearing Maintenance Urgency?

jnbhobe

Well-known member
Expensive for what it is but that's Camping World for you some of the tire manufacturers say it causes undue stress on the other tire
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
Dexter has a complete and extensive list of grease. Once you decide on the composition of a grease its ok to mix brands but not composition. Stick with the recommended lubes from dexter and you will be ok. There are different compositions of wheel bearing grease and if you mix them you will be doing a hand pack.

And yes the EZ lube meets the annual lubrication requirements of the system, Dexter has no requirement for annual hand packing. Anyone can induce a problem. If it aint broke dont fix it.

We were able to get non-$50 seals from a trailer store ($5) although they have no brand marking and the trailer store didn't know the brand. The look and feel identical to the manufacture ones. We re-packed the one wheel we took apart with new grease and one of these new seals (since we tore apart the old one). Took about 3 hours. I've decided for the remaining 3 wheels I am going to go with the e-z lube system as it seems to represent the least risk. I was originally going to hand pack all wheels but the ones I took apart show no wear and the grease is almost pristine (still bright pink). So I think taking apart and inspecting can wait for a professional when I get back home. Basically my thought is that there is less risk of a problem from the e-z lube system than from a novice trying to hand pack it.

But that leaves one question. The videos say not to mix grease. The grease we bought for the wheel we repacked was different than the original grease (gray in color instead of pink). It was one of the approved grease sources in the PDF Jim sent over, just not the same as the original. Since I am using the e-z lube system for the remaining wheels I would like to get the same grease as I assume a small amount of the old grease will remain. Does anybody know what specific grease is used by the factory?
 

whp4262

Well-known member
Has anyone ever tried one of these:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/trailer-aid/10867

10867nnew2.jpg
Just guessing here but it would seem to me that instead of the load being spread over two axles and springs this device would transfer all the load to one axle and spring causing a pretty severe overload for the axle, spring and tire.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Expensive for what it is but that's Camping World for you some of the tire manufacturers say it causes undue stress on the other tire
Seems to me that jacking the axle near the wheel (despite contrary advice from the manufacturers) would put the same stress on other components as using the Trailer Aid device to raise one wheel.

Trailer Aids used to come in 2 sizes. The larger one would be needed on larger rigs.
 

whp4262

Well-known member
Seems to me that jacking the axle near the wheel (despite contrary advice from the manufacturers) would put the same stress on other components as using the Trailer Aid device to raise one wheel.

Trailer Aids used to come in 2 sizes. The larger one would be needed on larger rigs.

If you use the trailer aid one axle is just hanging with no load carried by the spring. With a jack load is still carried by both springs, one tire and the jack?

I have changed a trailer tire in a pinch with blocks so it does work. Also blew a tire once on a bumper pull I had years ago in the middle of nowhere North Dakota without a spare. I took the tire off, chained the axle to the frame and ran on 3 tires until I found a place that had a tire. That worked too.


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JanAndBill

Well-known member
Just guessing here but it would seem to me that instead of the load being spread over two axles and springs this device would transfer all the load to one axle and spring causing a pretty severe overload for the axle, spring and tire.

What do you think happens when you're traveling down the road at 65 mph and you hit big bump or pothole, or you're driving through one of those campgrounds with extreme speed bumps? An overload on a tire at dead stop is not the same as a rolling overloaded tire
 

whp4262

Well-known member
What do you think happens when you're traveling down the road at 65 mph and you hit big bump or pothole, or you're driving through one of those campgrounds with extreme speed bumps? An overload on a tire at dead stop is not the same as a rolling overloaded tire

I've never seen the other axle hanging in the air going over a speed bump or pot hole so it is still carrying some load which is what the equalizer is for. But when one wheel has been lifted enough to cause the other wheel to hang in the air then the maximum travel of the equalizer has been exceeded and no load is carried by that spring. Just my opinion and nothing scientific.


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Jim.Allison

Well-known member
Except that lifting the axle just high enough to remove and install another wheel is identical in mathematics as having the axle supported by the wheel. Your equalizer, and your springs are not going to notice one ounce of difference.

Seems to me that jacking the axle near the wheel (despite contrary advice from the manufacturers) would put the same stress on other components as using the Trailer Aid device to raise one wheel.

Trailer Aids used to come in 2 sizes. The larger one would be needed on larger rigs.
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
Here is Dexters PDF on compatible to OEM grease and oils for their axles. There are many others, but unless you are repacking you should stick with the specs at the top of the page. These brands are readily available in your area or on the net, I ordered a case, no freight and no tax. for a little over 3 buck per tube. I use the Red Multiplex, and to me the color does matter, because when I purge with my EZ lube, I want to see the red grease after the brown grease has been purged.

. If it's a lithium based NLGI #2 Grease, that's all that is necessary. That's what the factory will use. Brand and color doesn't matter. Color is just dye and used for manufacturers to market and sell their grease.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Yes JohnD, I bought one. Tried to use it on a concrete driveway. It would only slide on the concrete. I did finally get one tire up on it and the weight of the Horn crushed it. $70 in the trash can.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
JohnD, the only insurance/warranty plan I would ever buy is the one from Good Sam and the same with their roadside assisitance. Your trailer does not have to be new to buy one. BTW, Good Sams warranty covers suspension....I know thats not funny to you. Sounds to me like you got the green weeny that most people do who buy a dealer supplied warranty. The only ones that make money are the dealer and the warranty co. AND YOU LOSE your money. By the time they get through figuring out how much they owe you.....you will probably get back a can of beans and a torilla.

Are you going to go to Garrys rally in Lake Havasu in 2017??
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
John, I dont think I would get carried away in spring and axle weight up grades. Tooo much could shake your trailer apart. JMHO
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
With the help of Terry at Heartland and Emily at Lippert, plus Damon at Trailer Made Custom Trailers, LLC in Northglenn, Colorado, Lippert is going to replace and upgrade both axles and spring sets and I will pay the labor charges, plus I will be upgrading the wheels and tires as well!

Also a big THANKS to Jim Belleti here in the Heartland Forums as well!

It is a good day, indeed!

I will post more about it in the other topic thread that I started about this issue.
 

simsfmly

Ohio Chapter Leaders-retired
Well, I had been keeping up on this thread. Sided with those who thought they shouldn't be messed with.

I was a boater and always saw trailer problems with bearings on somebody else. But those bearings were dunked, dried, rode hard, dunked again, etc. I understood that water would get in, rust, create friction that would cause heat, boil the grease and boom -- problems.

I also had a different rig for 6 years (31' Keystone Sprinter pull type). Rode it pretty hard through the summers, probably 1.5k to 2k a summer, then a run to Florida each Christmas. Never repacked the bearings, thought they were tight enough to hold the grease.

Had our 2013 BH 3670 since Labor Day of 2012. Had our first bearing failure today. Going to be a *****. Spindle/axle is OK, but everything else is going to have to be replaced.

Guy said it was a lack of grease, but the seals were fine. I guess I don't get that. If there's enough grease in them, the grease shouldn't go anywhere. Right?
 
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