danemayer
Well-known member
10-15% of the GVWR is on the tongue. 85-90% on the axles. Did you get the tongue weight?
Bearing Maintenance Urgency?
- Thread starter ericandalice
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10-15% of the GVWR is on the tongue. 85-90% on the axles. Did you get the tongue weight?
JohnD
Moved on to the next thing...
No . . . probably should have . . . but I think the numbers speak for themselves.
JanAndBill
Well-known member
Interesting points brought up on the older model trailers. I remember servicing the bearings on them, but usually it was because of a brake problem. I know Dexter has only been around since 1960. Hadco Engineering has been around a lot longer, they were the ones that supplied a lot of the original Airstream axles. They are still in business building axles and hubs. Haven't been able to do a lot of research on them, but first glance looks to me like they are a lot heavier then Dexter for the same weight rating. IE a 5 lug hub in the 7,000# class is 23#. Spindles and axle tube are heavier as well.
Not saying that heavier is the way to go, as I understand what a crunch RV manufacturers are in to conserve weight, but sometimes theoretical engineering tests the limits of the design. I don't know what Hadco's service requirement is as regards repacking the bearings because they didn't list anything one way or the other.
Not saying that heavier is the way to go, as I understand what a crunch RV manufacturers are in to conserve weight, but sometimes theoretical engineering tests the limits of the design. I don't know what Hadco's service requirement is as regards repacking the bearings because they didn't list anything one way or the other.
Here are the numbers.
7,040 pound trailer, 12.5% tongue weight (average) = 880 pounds.
7,040 - 880 = 6,160 pounds on the axles or 3,080 each. Well under the 3,500 pound rating.
Peace
Dave
JohnD Tires never wear out. They weather Check. No doubt the tires made today are much poorer quality than they used to be. In fact most tires today are made in China and apparently they have no quality regulations in place. They are good for about 6,000 miles before they start blowing out.
JohnD
Moved on to the next thing...
I know . . .
I was planning on replacing those old tires on that '78 Coachman before we took it out again as they were showing weather check on the sidewalls.
Traded it in for the Trail Runner instead.
Jim.Allison
Well-known member
It has been mentioned many times on this forum, but every owner should be familiar with the Magnuson Moss Act.
By being familiar with this federal act you can rest comfortably knowing that your warranty cannot be voided by not performing maintenance unless not performing the maintenance lead to the failure.
It is not a one sided law, it gives you and the seller specific rights. It protects the seller from having to warranty a part that has been abused, or improperly maintained, or broken in an incident. It protects the consumer from being told that the item failed because he did not do an unrelated thing.
If you notice in your TV owner's manual, the manufacturer always strongly suggest that you use their oil and filters, but they will never cross the line and say that you have to use their products. They know that if they do then they are rubbing up against Magnuson. If it were not for Magnuson Moss, we would have to buy our bearings and lube from the manufacturer of an axle. Or if we installed an inverter, and the frame broke, our warranties would be void.
An example that I once read about was about a man that had an alternator failure in a small town, he and a local mechanic replaced the alternator with a rebuilt part. Later a dealer noticed a non-oem alternator and informed the customer that his vehicle warranty was voided. This was in direct violation of Magnuson. Although the warranty no longer applied to the aftermarket alternator, the remainder of the vehicle warranty remained in effect. The story points out that the vehicle manufacturer was relieved of warrantying any further alternator problems and any problems that the non-oem part may cause. But the remainder of the vehicle warranty remained in effect.
Posting this message is not intended to imply that our suppliers would do anything like this. But rather to let people know there are rules in the warranty. You do not need to feel pressured to perform unreasonable maintenance. By the same token you can't damage a product and expect a supplier to provide warranty service.
By being familiar with this federal act you can rest comfortably knowing that your warranty cannot be voided by not performing maintenance unless not performing the maintenance lead to the failure.
It is not a one sided law, it gives you and the seller specific rights. It protects the seller from having to warranty a part that has been abused, or improperly maintained, or broken in an incident. It protects the consumer from being told that the item failed because he did not do an unrelated thing.
If you notice in your TV owner's manual, the manufacturer always strongly suggest that you use their oil and filters, but they will never cross the line and say that you have to use their products. They know that if they do then they are rubbing up against Magnuson. If it were not for Magnuson Moss, we would have to buy our bearings and lube from the manufacturer of an axle. Or if we installed an inverter, and the frame broke, our warranties would be void.
An example that I once read about was about a man that had an alternator failure in a small town, he and a local mechanic replaced the alternator with a rebuilt part. Later a dealer noticed a non-oem alternator and informed the customer that his vehicle warranty was voided. This was in direct violation of Magnuson. Although the warranty no longer applied to the aftermarket alternator, the remainder of the vehicle warranty remained in effect. The story points out that the vehicle manufacturer was relieved of warrantying any further alternator problems and any problems that the non-oem part may cause. But the remainder of the vehicle warranty remained in effect.
Posting this message is not intended to imply that our suppliers would do anything like this. But rather to let people know there are rules in the warranty. You do not need to feel pressured to perform unreasonable maintenance. By the same token you can't damage a product and expect a supplier to provide warranty service.
ericandalice
Senior Question Asker
I'm trying to determine how to know what seal to buy. I've searched the forum and see some part numbers listed. But I don't know if those are applicable to my specific rig (Big Country 3690 2013). How can I be sure what seal to get? Is it best to just take the wheel apart and bring the old one in?
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
Take the seal with you when you go to buy the new ones. BTW, no one has mentioned the easy way to remove the inner bearing and seal. Remove the outer bearing...reinstall the nut...pull hard on the drum and viola the bearing and seal are off. When installing the new seal...use a brass or rubber hammer. Work your way around the seal gently tapping it in place. If you don't...you will damage the seal. Make sure the seal is seated all the way in or at least flush with the bearing hub. I hope your BC is hooked to your TV while your doing this repair.
danemayer
Well-known member
Eric,
When jacking the trailer up, Dexter, Lippert and Heartland all recommend jacking up the frame, NOT the axle. If you put the jack directly on the axle, you can damage the axle, and it's also a more precarious arrangement. Same with jacking the spring clamps. They recommend against doing so because of potential for the jack to slip. It's a good idea to use boards above and below the jack to spread the load on frame and ground. Using jack stands or other supports to prevent damage if the jack fails is also a good idea. And as mentioned, being hitched up to the truck, with truck wheels chocked is a good practice.
When jacking the trailer up, Dexter, Lippert and Heartland all recommend jacking up the frame, NOT the axle. If you put the jack directly on the axle, you can damage the axle, and it's also a more precarious arrangement. Same with jacking the spring clamps. They recommend against doing so because of potential for the jack to slip. It's a good idea to use boards above and below the jack to spread the load on frame and ground. Using jack stands or other supports to prevent damage if the jack fails is also a good idea. And as mentioned, being hitched up to the truck, with truck wheels chocked is a good practice.
I never reuse the seals. It usually damages them when you remove them to get the outer bearing out of the hub. The cheapest place I have found to get seals is a trailer parts supplier. Most auto parts stores sell them but they can be way over priced.
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If the races are burnt they will have a bluish color. If they have dark spots or lines perpendicular to the race then it's an indication of inter granular corrosion. Eventually this corrosion will turn into pitting. It's most likely caused by the bearing sitting in one spot for extended periods of time. Common problem with aircraft wheel bearings when the plane is not flown often, same problem with trailers that sit a lot.
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I always jack up the wheels of all our trailers, usually annually, to check the bearing play and to give the easy lube some grease while spinning the wheel. If the play is OK you are good to travel.
caissiel
Senior Member
I am one that do not do packing of bearings annually. On our first trip the grease was on all the brake magnets and new seals and repacking had to be done properly.
Checked the wheels and brakes 5 years after. Everything was good to go an other few years.
My trailer has been junk since new and I have spend 90 hrs to keep it on the road.
The last big job was was rebuilding the rear wall that leaked since new due to improper installation of the trims. There was 3 #6 screws and the window holding the whole wall. It could have flew of if not done properly.
The previous unit was 10 years old before major repairs were required.
Don't think we hate our unit but we love it to last an other 10 trouble free years. So for me depending on a 1 year warranty repairs is also a joke. My repairs need to be good for years because I do not repair something twice.
Learn this after many years in heavy equipment maintenance.
Checked the wheels and brakes 5 years after. Everything was good to go an other few years.
My trailer has been junk since new and I have spend 90 hrs to keep it on the road.
The last big job was was rebuilding the rear wall that leaked since new due to improper installation of the trims. There was 3 #6 screws and the window holding the whole wall. It could have flew of if not done properly.
The previous unit was 10 years old before major repairs were required.
Don't think we hate our unit but we love it to last an other 10 trouble free years. So for me depending on a 1 year warranty repairs is also a joke. My repairs need to be good for years because I do not repair something twice.
Learn this after many years in heavy equipment maintenance.
ericandalice
Senior Question Asker
Napa wants $50 a seal. Thoughts? We killed a seal (that sounds so wrong) this morning trying to get it out. So we bought one. But four would be $200. I said no!
-Alice
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-Alice
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pegmikef
Well-known member
Sounds kind of high to me. When I had mine packed a few weeks ago the charge for four seals was around 25 bucks. A cursory look shows that they run around five to eight bucks each at auto parts stores, but I don't know about your specific seal.
