Bearing Maintenance Urgency?

[JohnD]

I'm just curious what is the difference between the bearings and lubrication in a sealed for life bearing versus the properly lubricated EZ lube hub? Do they use special bearings and magic grease?

And why would you not have to change a lifetime lube bearing set every year, or 10,000 miles?

Are we just reacting to what Dexter is dictating to maintain a warranty? Or a practical lube schedule?

IMHO, the lube schedule is unreasonable, impractical, unnecessary, and very expensive, and serves to scare and mislead those that are unfamiliar with bearing and lubrication to the point that they would spend $200 on an annual basis only having operated the bearings for 2000 miles.

2000 miles at 45 miles per hour would equal only 44 hours of operation. Hardly enough time to oxidize or corrupt the lubricant, certainly not to the point that the old grease could not be purged from the system, and normal operations resumed.----Just Saying

I don't think that laboratory test would support the need for annual, or 10,000 mi hand pack of 7000 lb trailer hubs, notwithstanding special circumstances that may be involved in special applications such as mountain driving where hubs may become excessively hot, or in the case of boat launching.

Which is exactly what I said in my topic about my issues . . .

And a year or so ago, when I started a topic thread stating that I felt that all RV's should have a three year warranty . . . not a one year warranty . . . as one year is not enough time to really find out what might be wrong with an RV, unless you are living in it full-time!

But I sure caught a lot of grief over that!

Even the shop that will be fixing my trailer (by the way . . . they build flatbet trailers for hauling excavation equipment) told me that this every 12 months is not necessary . . . unless you are hauling for 10's of thousands of miles per year!

Not to mention that he also feels that my trailer never should have left the factory with the axles and springs that are on it and approved by Heartland . . .

I know this is going to start a bunch of flack . . . but that every 12-month bearing repack requirement is just a way for those providing warranties to get out of covering them!

End of story!

By the by . . . just got home from talking with the shop about my double axle replacement . . . and I'll be updating the topic thread about my issues sometime in the next few hours!

Right now . . . dinner and a beer or two!

 

[Jim.Allison]

It is important to note that a warranty cannot be declined unless the failure is due to something you did or did not do.

 

[JohnD]

It is important to note that a warranty cannot be declined unless the failure is due to something you did or did not do.

Not true!

I am experiencing this very issue right now . . .

The fine print is designed to protect the warranty provider . . . NOT the consumer!

I know you don't believe this . . . but it is so very true in so many cases that it would make your head swim!

 

[ericandalice]

I called around to a few places about trying to get it changed on the way out of town but most shops don't seem friendly to that sort of situation. They want me to drop it off and leave it for a few days. That doesn't really work since I travel with cats. Given the high price of someone doing it on-site I think I'm going to opt to try to do it myself. I took apart one of the wheels just to learn my way around and it seemed pretty straight forward and the videos also look messy but not hard. I think I'm going to hand repack since it hasn't had any maintenance in the three years as it also gives me the opportunity to inspect things. So now I'm trying to build a list of supplies to buy and a plan of action so I can do it this weekend.

Obviously I need the grease. The chart Jim posted should provide me the info for that. Obviously I'll need a lot of rags. With hand packing it doesn't seem the grease gun is needed as the videos just show people putting a blob of grease on their hand and forcing it into the bearings. Since I already took one wheel apart I think I have everything I need to take it apart. Seems that I would also need some sort of grease solvent to clean the parts of the old grease. Any recommendation on what I should use for that? Anything else I need?

 

[JohnDar]

From what I've read, brake cleaner is what is used to clean the parts.

 

[danemayer]

Hi Eric,

Here's a link to a thread with detailed instructions and pictures.

 

[caissiel]

Brake cleaner can be used to clean outside the bearing or with bearing removed, but because the brake cleaner turns grease into a dry dust I sure would keep it away from the bearing. The dust created by the brake cleaner can get stuck in the bearing. I prefer cleaning around and the bearing with a solvent that will not leave any residue.
I seldom clean the bearing when I check my brakes and in 40 years never had any bearing failures. I use the assomption that bearings never fails. Its the environment that fails. Ex. Dirt, bad seals, bad or lack of lubricant, improper installation. In all my years of maintenance repairs properly sized bearing life is 20000 hrs or more.
Therefore if the OEM has done the job right it should last till a brake job is required.

 

[whp4262]

I called around to a few places about trying to get it changed on the way out of town but most shops don't seem friendly to that sort of situation. They want me to drop it off and leave it for a few days. That doesn't really work since I travel with cats. Given the high price of someone doing it on-site I think I'm going to opt to try to do it myself. I took apart one of the wheels just to learn my way around and it seemed pretty straight forward and the videos also look messy but not hard. I think I'm going to hand repack since it hasn't had any maintenance in the three years as it also gives me the opportunity to inspect things. So now I'm trying to build a list of supplies to buy and a plan of action so I can do it this weekend.

Obviously I need the grease. The chart Jim posted should provide me the info for that. Obviously I'll need a lot of rags. With hand packing it doesn't seem the grease gun is needed as the videos just show people putting a blob of grease on their hand and forcing it into the bearings. Since I already took one wheel apart I think I have everything I need to take it apart. Seems that I would also need some sort of grease solvent to clean the parts of the old grease. Any recommendation on what I should use for that? Anything else I need?

Get a parts cleaning pan
A stiff bristle parts cleaning brush
An oil drain pan to dump the dirty solvent in.
And at least 1 gallon of GUNK Hydro Seal cleaner or any other brand of stoddard solvent.

Once the bearings are packed and the wheels are reinstalled lightly snug the spindle nut while spinning the wheel to seat them. Then back the spindle nut off 1/4 turn and install the cotter pin. I usually use a pair of channel lock pliers to tighten the nut and back it off 1/4. It's not a hard job just a little messy and time consuming.

Don't spin the bearing with shop air when you are drying it.
Don't put greasy rags in a trash can in your garage etc. Greasy rags can self combust.
Don't reuse cotter pins.
Don't forget to back the spindle nut off 1/4 turn. Over tightened bearing will fail.


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[JanAndBill]

Get a parts cleaning pan
A stiff bristle parts cleaning brush
An oil drain pan to dump the dirty solvent in.
And at least 1 gallon of GUNK Hydro Seal cleaner or any other brand of stoddard solvent.

Once the bearings are packed and the wheels are reinstalled lightly snug the spindle nut while spinning the wheel to seat them. Then back the spindle nut off 1/4 turn and install the cotter pin. I usually use a pair of channel lock pliers to tighten the nut and back it off 1/4. It's not a hard job just a little messy and time consuming.

Don't spin the bearing with shop air when you are drying it.
Don't put greasy rags in a trash can in your garage etc. Greasy rags can self combust.
Don't reuse cotter pins.
Don't forget to back the spindle nut off 1/4 turn. Over tightened bearing will fail.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A couple of additional comments to the above.
1.Buy yourself a box of latex gloves, it's going to be messy.

2. I never use a hot solvent, preferring plain old diesel fuel for cleaning bearings.

3. Never allow a clean bearing to be contaminated with any kind of grit.

4. You can buy a gimmick to pack the bearings, but I like to do it by hand. Working the grease into the bearing fully. It takes a little while to do it properly so be patient.

5. I like to pack the center of the hub with grease after I first slide it on. Makes it easier to use the EZ Lube feature later on.

6. Bearing Preload is one of the most critical parts of repacking the bearing. Those who have had years of experience develop a feel for how tight to go on the initial tightening. For those inexperienced, I would highly suggest you use a torque wrench and tighten to 50lbs as specified. In addition, bring the torque up in steps, while spinning the wheel. I also like to "whack" the tire with a 3lb hammer while doing this to help set the bearings. Once you reach torque, stop all movement back off the nut, then go back finger tight. Once you install the lock you should actually be able to "jiggle" the nut just a little. If not, it's to tight.


To a previous poster that seemed to feel that repacking bearings was not needed, I can only say good luck. These axles are pretty much loaded to the max all the time. Condensation and moisture intrusion past the seal can build up over time. Even the oil filled hubs we ran on the trucks and trailers required regular maintenance.

 

[Realist]

I know this is going to start a bunch of flack . . . but that every 12-month bearing repack requirement is just a way for those providing warranties to get out of covering them!

End of story!

I disagree.
The warranty specifications are in place to force people to do the required maintenance.
If the required maintenance schedule is not followed then the purchaser has no right to gripe.
If I put 75,000 miles on my car without an oil change just because I "thought" the oil should last that long do you think Ford would say "you're covered"?
JMHO.
realist

 

[JohnD]

It is important to note that a warranty cannot be declined unless the failure is due to something you did or did not do.

Exactly!

It is all in the fine print.

 

[JohnD]

I called around to a few places about trying to get it changed on the way out of town but most shops don't seem friendly to that sort of situation. They want me to drop it off and leave it for a few days. That doesn't really work since I travel with cats.

When we had our wheel bearing issue repaired in Phoenix back in January, the repair shop allowed us to leave our three cats in the trailer while they fixed it.

Fortunately for us, they did the job in one day and allowed us to check on them several times during the day.

 

[JohnD]

I disagree.
The warranty specifications are in place to force people to do the required maintenance.
If the required maintenance schedule is not followed then the purchaser has no right to gripe.
If I put 75,000 miles on my car without an oil change just because I "thought" the oil should last that long do you think Ford would say "you're covered"?
JMHO.
realist

Funny . . . on my old truck, which I didn't use as my daily driver, I once went a year and a half between one oil change.

They gave me a bunch of grief about the time between the oil change.

Ironically . . . in that time between that oil change I had only put 900 miles on the truck.

To a previous poster that seemed to feel that repacking bearings was not needed, I can only say good luck. These axles are pretty much loaded to the max all the time. Condensation and moisture intrusion past the seal can build up over time. Even the oil filled hubs we ran on the trucks and trailers required regular maintenance.

If it is me you are talking about . . . I never said that repacking bearings are not needed.

What I said is that they don't need to be done every 12 months no matter what!

Even the trailer builder that is doing the axle replacement on our trailer said the same.

 

[JanAndBill]

John, not picking on you specifically, but there have been other negative comments on this and other threads about the need for bearing maintenance per manufacturer's recommendation. Most vehicles, equipment, etc. specify "Recommended" service intervals, they also go on to clarify that with such statements as "operating conditions may dictate different service intervals". To me this means you may have to service more frequently or you may not. Most people myself included tend to maintain their vehicles and equipment on a regular basis, it's easier for me to remember things are supposed to happen at certain times. Frankly doing a service on something that could go a little longer is never going to do harm and is cheap insurance compared to the alternative. For those that choose not to follow the manufacturer's guidelines I would recommend that you make a carefully informed decision before you deviate from those recommendations and be willing to accept the consequences for those actions.

 

[cbavier]

Let me ask a dumb question. We had a 1998 Terry 35ft Fifth Wheel 13 years. I never had the bearings packed even once. I had them checked one time after we had the trailer 6 years and the Mechanic said they were fine. Why would someone have to pack the bearings once a year? That seems ridiculous to me. Even if towed 12,000 miles a year.. One should be able to go at least three years before having them checked or packed. People drive a car 5 or 6 years and never have the wheel bearings packed.

 

[JohnD]

Just got back from having our trailer weighed . . . 7040 pounds trailer only!

GVWR is 7700 pounds . . .

Trailer came from the factory with two 3500 pound axles.

 

[JohnD]

John, not picking on you specifically, but there have been other negative comments on this and other threads about the need for bearing maintenance per manufacturer's recommendation. Most vehicles, equipment, etc. specify "Recommended" service intervals, they also go on to clarify that with such statements as "operating conditions may dictate different service intervals". To me this means you may have to service more frequently or you may not. Most people myself included tend to maintain their vehicles and equipment on a regular basis, it's easier for me to remember things are supposed to happen at certain times. Frankly doing a service on something that could go a little longer is never going to do harm and is cheap insurance compared to the alternative. For those that choose not to follow the manufacturer's guidelines I would recommend that you make a carefully informed decision before you deviate from those recommendations and be willing to accept the consequences for those actions.

Cool!

It just seems that many here think that men are men . . . and all men should know how to do anything concerning vehicle maintanence, no matter what it is!

I do agree that all men should know how to change a tire, though . . .

 

[JohnD]

Let me ask a dumb question. We had a 1998 Terry 35ft Fifth Wheel 13 years. I never had the bearings packed even once. I had them checked one time after we had the trailer 6 years and the Mechanic said they were fine. Why would someone have to pack the bearings once a year? That seems ridiculous to me. Even if towed 12,000 miles a year.. One should be able to go at least three years before having them checked or packed. People drive a car 5 or 6 years and never have the wheel bearings packed.

Interesting comment!

We owned our old trailer . . . a 1978 Coachman Cadet 24' for 12 years.

Didn't really know any of it's history, other than it was basically a piece of junk when we bought it . . .

When I told my wife that I was going to name it "Trailer Trash" and have it painted on the back like boat owners do their boats . . . she said that it is time for a new trailer!

That was August of 2012 . . .

Nothing worked in it except the electricity, furnace and stove!

We considered it our 'tent on wheels'!

We pulled that thing all over the state of Colorado, plus took it down to Taos, New Mexico once.

It survived a tornado in Pueblo, Colorado . . . not to mention several intense hail storms!

But not once ever in those 12 years that we owned it did we ever worry about the tires or the wheel bearings . . . never had to!

My father-in-law once repacked the wheel bearings about three years after we bought it, mainly because we wanted to check out the brake pads just because, which were still good and we never had to replace them ever, as were the wheel bearings.

Matter of fact . . . that old trailer is still in service with the new owner with those same tires that were on it when we bought it!

In many ways I miss that old beast . . . but I really don't want it back!

Here are some shots of it in action:

 

[JanAndBill]

Let me ask a dumb question. We had a 1998 Terry 35ft Fifth Wheel 13 years. I never had the bearings packed even once. I had them checked one time after we had the trailer 6 years and the Mechanic said they were fine. Why would someone have to pack the bearings once a year? That seems ridiculous to me. Even if towed 12,000 miles a year.. One should be able to go at least three years before having them checked or packed. People drive a car 5 or 6 years and never have the wheel bearings packed.

Without all the information on the 1998, weight, axles, miles, etc. it would be hard to compare. I have a friend with a 5th wheel probably older than that and I doubt that he has ever checked the wheel bearings. So far he's never had a failure. I have another friend with a 3 yr old 5th wheel that lost two wheels in the same week. I do know that most of the trailers built today are maxed out on their axles, which could be part of the problem.

 

[JohnD]

I do know that most of the trailers built today are maxed out on their axles, which could be part of the problem.

Well . . . just had mine weighed this morning . . . 7040 pounds!

The axles are both rated at 3500 pounds x 2 = 7000 pounds.