Disk brakes Titian vs MorRyde

[Bones]

Here's my junction box in a cacoon of good old duct tape. For a fleeting moment, I pondered removing the tape, taking off the cover and photographing, for all to see, the multi-colored spaghetti that dwells behind. I thought, I'll show my unprofessional, ugly old wire nuts, but then remembered...you can't see them... they're wrapped, dry and secure, in multi layered electrical tape as cozy as well preserved Egyptian mummies. And besides, the duct tape still looked so good after a, bone rattling, 15K trip cross country this past winter. My previous toy hauler, got the same treatment, and the junction box never again saw the light of day for the 8 years I owned it, after the initial checking and taping of the original factory connections . So, knowing my junction box might cause nightmares to the "faint of heart", I'll spare you a photo of the innards.... As for me, I'll continue to hurdle down the road with my "rolling earthquake" confident that barring a biblical disaster or rogue meteor my sloppy, ugly, half *$$#d, cheap wire nuts AIN'T coming loose.


nuff said

Mic drop. Boom

 

[BigGuy82]

Here's my junction box in a cacoon of good old duct tape. For a fleeting moment, I pondered removing the tape, taking off the cover and photographing, for all to see, the multi-colored spaghetti that dwells behind. I thought, I'll show my unprofessional, ugly old wire nuts, but then remembered...you can't see them... they're wrapped, dry and secure, in multi layered electrical tape as cozy as well preserved Egyptian mummies. And besides, the duct tape still looked so good after a, bone rattling, 15K trip cross country this past winter. My previous toy hauler, got the same treatment, and the junction box never again saw the light of day for the 8 years I owned it, after the initial checking and taping of the original factory connections . So, knowing my junction box might cause nightmares to the "faint of heart", I'll spare you a photo of the innards.... As for me, I'll continue to hurdle down the road with my "rolling earthquake" confident that barring a biblical disaster or rogue meteor my sloppy, ugly, half *$$#d, cheap wire nuts AIN'T coming loose.


nuff said

Mic drop. Boom

Nobody said you had to do it any way but your own. If you're happy with sloppy and ugly, it's ok with me and probably everyone else. Beauty is always in the eye of the beholder. The problem with forums is that there is often a lot of incorrect information that is passed along as gospel when in fact it's incorrect.

To support my point of view, here's the instructions from the Brakerite II Manual - page 9:

5.0 - INSTALLATION (cont.)
Always use good ground leads between ALL specified points. As the
electrical portion of the installation is carried out make certain the wires
are properly routed, wrapped, anchored, and protected to prevent
damage or catching on road hazards. When making connection in the
circuit, other than the plug-in connectors, the desirable joint is a solder
joint. If using crimp-type joints always use the manufacturers
recommended crimping tools in accordance with the manufacturers
directions and always properly wrap and protect all joints to prevent
“shorting” and corrosion.

Again, this is from the controller manufacturer, who I'm guessing employs a real, live engineer to determine stuff like this.

Don't trip over that mike when you walk off the stage.

 

[Bones]

 

[namgrunt51]

Nobody said you had to do it any way but your own. If you're happy with sloppy and ugly, it's ok with me and probably everyone else. Beauty is always in the eye of the beholder. The problem with forums is that there is often a lot of incorrect information that is passed along as gospel when in fact it's incorrect.

To support my point of view, here's the instructions from the Brakerite II Manual - page 9:

5.0 - INSTALLATION (cont.)
Always use good ground leads between ALL specified points. As the
electrical portion of the installation is carried out make certain the wires
are properly routed, wrapped, anchored, and protected to prevent
damage or catching on road hazards. When making connection in the
circuit, other than the plug-in connectors, the desirable joint is a solder
joint. If using crimp-type joints always use the manufacturers
recommended crimping tools in accordance with the manufacturers
directions and always properly wrap and protect all joints to prevent
“shorting” and corrosion.

Again, this is from the controller manufacturer, who I'm guessing employs a real, live engineer to determine stuff like this.

Don't trip over that mike when you walk off the stage.

The problem with these forums is people who seem unable to state their opinion without snarky, condesending BS.....


examples:
Regarding wire nuts, let me elaborate:
Factory - sloppy, ugly, half *$$#d, cheap. If your rig has this but it uses twist-on wire nuts, add unreliable. Because these are crimp-on, they are reliable. Rube Goldberg could have come up with something better.
Me - neat, good looking, professional, reliable 'nuff said.


Again, this is from the controller manufacturer, who I'm guessing employs a real, live engineer to determine stuff like this.


Don't trip over that mike when you walk off the stage.


I'm just giving a little back.
But truth be told, I think there are at least a couple people on this thread that have no place for "settled science" in their world and are no more than "Wire Nut Deniers".


Peace out....

 

[BigGuy82]

The problem with these forums is people who seem unable to state their opinion without snarky, condesending BS.....


examples:
Regarding wire nuts, let me elaborate:
Factory - sloppy, ugly, half *$$#d, cheap. If your rig has this but it uses twist-on wire nuts, add unreliable. Because these are crimp-on, they are reliable. Rube Goldberg could have come up with something better.
Me - neat, good looking, professional, reliable 'nuff said.


Again, this is from the controller manufacturer, who I'm guessing employs a real, live engineer to determine stuff like this.


Don't trip over that mike when you walk off the stage.


I'm just giving a little back.
But truth be told, I think there are at least a couple people on this thread that have no place for "settled science" in their world and are no more than "Wire Nut Deniers".


Peace out....

No response for that nonsense.

End of the day, nobody really cares what you or I think about this. Supposed to be just friendly forum conversation.

 

[Toy1Ton]

does anybody know what brake pump morRyde is using on their disc brakes?

 

[Titanguy]

does anybody know what brake pump morRyde is using on their disc brakes?

Hydrastar

 

[Al_Gibb]

Steve,
About 50% of the kits I sell are DIY. Not a difficult install but does take time, about 10 man hours for an experience installer. If you elect a DIY kit, I am only a phone call away for help.
Disc Brakes is an option that can pay for itself in a single incident. Yes, it is one of the few upgrades that make a difference.
There is virtually no service/maintenance required. Much like the disc brakes on your car/truck. Brake pads are a standard off the shelf GM pad.
The Titan EHB Actuator works with all integrated controllers. Certain trucks may need an actuator adapter to allow the in cab controller to see the trailer is connected.

I noticed you are in Nevada. While I will not be attending the National Rally, My installers will be there doing some installations. If you want something done at this rally, you need to schedule asap.

Steve, I read your post from 2016. Do you know what GM pad numbers are applicable for the 13" Titan disc brakes?

 

[travelin2]

Steve, I read your post from 2016. Do you know what GM pad numbers are applicable for the 13" Titan disc brakes?

MKD 215 are the pads I used for my 7000 lb axle “Titan” brake kit on my bighorn

 

[wdk450]

I have about a 3 second delay in my Hydrastar/Carlisle actuator on my Mor Ryde system. That is, when I actuate the trailer brakes, it is about 3 seconds until I feel trailer braking. The best way to test this is with the manual braking lever on the truck braking controller. I have heard that the actuator that the Titan system uses has higher pressures and quicker brake actuation, but is pretty expensive to buy.

I have thought that some sort of a pressure reservoir with a mechanical valve actuated by the brake controller (sort of like air brake systems) would make more sense.

 

[Hollandt]

I have about a 3 second delay in my Hydrastar/Carlisle actuator on my Mor Ryde system. That is, when I actuate the trailer brakes, it is about 3 seconds until I feel trailer braking. The best way to test this is with the manual braking lever on the truck braking controller. I have heard that the actuator that the Titan system uses has higher pressures and quicker brake actuation, but is pretty expensive to buy.

I have thought that some sort of a pressure reservoir with a mechanical valve actuated by the brake controller (sort of like air brake systems) would make more sense.

I have not used any brakes like this but 3 sec seems pretty long time. Do you think it is possible your system has air in it and is having to pump the system up each time? You may want to consider bleeding the system??

 

[danemayer]

Bill,
If you have a 3 second delay, something's not right. Our Hydrastar/MorRyde installation has significant braking in less than 1 second.

Here's what Hydrastar says about delayed braking:

1. Check brake fluid level
2. Re-bleed the trailer braking system (bleed Hydrastar first)
3. Check for proper wiring of the actuator (see wiring diagram)
4. Check for proper wire size (12 gauge wire is required)
5. Check for proper ground (must be ground through the tow vehicle and to the trailer)
6. Check for compatibility with the tow vehicle (see compatibility chart)
   • If HBA-CAM is required, ensure CAM is wired correctly
7. If problem is not solved, conduct Battery Test (see Battery Test Procedures)
8. If actuator passes Battery Test the problem is not in the actuator, if actuator fails Battery Test, contact the Technical Dept.

 

[Hollandt]

I have about a 3 second delay in my Hydrastar/Carlisle actuator on my Mor Ryde system. That is, when I actuate the trailer brakes, it is about 3 seconds until I feel trailer braking. The best way to test this is with the manual braking lever on the truck braking controller. I have heard that the actuator that the Titan system uses has higher pressures and quicker brake actuation, but is pretty expensive to buy.

I have thought that some sort of a pressure reservoir with a mechanical valve actuated by the brake controller (sort of like air brake systems) would make more sense.

​

​

This may shed some light on your delay issue??​

​

Hydrastar Accessories and Parts - HBA-CAM​

• Brake Actuator
• Brake Controller Adapter
• Hydrastar

Use your Gen 6 or later HydraStar electric-over-hydraulic brake actuator with your factory Ford (model years 2007 - 2008) or Chevy (model years 2007 - current) electric trailer brake controller by installing this adapter.


Features:

• Lets you use your HydraStar electric-over-hydraulic actuator with a Ford (2007 - 2008) or Chevy (2007 - current) integral, in-cab brake controller
  • Works with Gen 6 and newer HydraStar systems
    • Models HBA-10 with serial number 313800 or higher
    • Models HBA-12 with serial number 705700 or higher
    • Models HBA16 with serial number 506100 or higher
    • Models MHBA-10, MHBA-12, and MHBA-16
    • Models HBA-10V, HBA-12V, and HBA-16V
• Intercepts verification signals to prevent false error codes
• Stops clicking noise in actuator caused by motor being triggered
  • Helps limit wear and tear on actuator's motor
• Resists weather and shock with sealed, anodized aluminum case
• Can be mounted anywhere and splices into your HydraStar actuator's wiring
• Made in the USA

Specs:

• Dimensions: 8-1/2" long x 3" wide x 1" tall
• 2-Year warranty

Brake Controller Compatibility

Not all electric trailer brake controllers will work with the Hydrastar electric-over-hydraulic brake actuator. Some factory brake controllers are only compatible if used with this adapter module. See the following table to determine compatibility with common models of brake controllers.

	Manufacturer	Vehicle Years/Controller Models	Compatible	Compatible if Used with HBA-CAM
Vehicles	Ford	2005-2006	Yes
2007-2008	No	Yes
2009-2017	Yes
Dodge	2010-2017	Yes
GMC/Chevy	2007-2017	No	Yes
2018	Yes

HBA-CAM 2 Cargo Towing Solutions (formerly Carlisle) HydraStar Control Adapter Module for Hydra Star Electric-Over-Hydraulic (EOH) Brake Actuators​

 

[wdk450]

I have a 2004 Dodge RAM 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins diesel truck. The Kodiac disk brakes system was installed at Mor Ryde in 2013. I am pretty sure that the brake controller is a Teknoshia P3. I have 4 Group 24 batteries in parallel in the trailer, and have the Progressive Dynamics 9260 Charge Wizard shorepower charger. My lifestyle for the past 2 1/2 years has been 3 week stays at 1 Thousand Trails campground (connected to shorepower), followed by another 3 week stay at another Thousand Trails campground, back and forth. A 40 mile trip between campgrounds. The battery voltage on my trailer test panel checks OK when connected to the truck on truck 12 volt dc charging.

Brake fluid level in the reservoir is correct.

I will try to re-bleed the actuator and wheel cylinders. I can do this myself by actuating the brakes through the umbilical cable with extension wires (brakes wire connected to 12 volt charge line intermittently with voltage from the trailer batteries).

I would think that I would be safe in assuming Mor Ryde got the following right in their installation:

1. Check for proper wiring of the actuator (see wiring diagram)
2. Check for proper wire size (12 gauge wire is required)
3. Check for proper ground (must be ground through the tow vehicle and to the trailer)
4. Check for compatibility with the tow vehicle (see compatibility chart)
   • If HBA-CAM is required, ensure CAM is wired correctly

I will check out and do the actuator battery test.

I seem to remember the mechanic from Mor Ryde on the test drive not completely happy with the braking action, but thought it was acceptable.

I have learned to drive with wider gaps between me and the vehicles in front of me, and adjust to slowing traffic far before I do when not towing.

I posted about this because I seemed to remember other people posting with the same delay issues with the Hydrostar actuator.

 

[SLO]

Steve, I read your post from 2016. Do you know what GM pad numbers are applicable for the 13" Titan disc brakes?

Here’s what I installed on my 13” Titans. Got them from Rock Auto

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Hockster]

Size of the brake lines make a huge difference.
When I did my own install on my 2011 Big Country, I used the Hydra-Star system.
Knowing that this pump operated at a lower pressure than the Titian, I ran 1/4” line from the pump to the center of each axle.
I installed a T at this point, and ran 1/4” line Into a reducer above each Caliper, then into a rubber flex hose to each Caliper.
Using the larger 1/4” line, reduces the line loss & or response time compared to the 3/16” line.

Hockster

 

[wdk450]

Ho

Size of the brake lines make a huge difference.
When I did my own install on my 2011 Big Country, I used the Hydra-Star system.
Knowing that this pump operated at a lower pressure than the Titian, I ran 1/4” line from the pump to the center of each axle.
I installed a T at this point, and ran 1/4” line Into a reducer above each Caliper, then into a rubber flex hose to each Caliper.
Using the larger 1/4” line, reduces the line loss & or response time compared to the 3/16” line.

Hockster

Hockster:
Thanks for your reply, and advice. What you said about the difference between the Hydra-Star and Titan actuators reflects what I seem to remember reading. Now doing websearches on both of the actuators gets info that says they are both 1600 psi. I wonder if there are any differences between the actuators on the volume of fluid they can supply during braking?

The 1/4 inch line makes a lot of sense.