Electric/Hydraulic Disc Brake System failure
- Thread starter J.S.B.
- Start date
porthole
Retired
Re: Hydrolic Brake failure
Unless you want to do them yourself, why not MOR/ryde?
If you are handy with tools, it is an end user upgrade that can be done in a driveway.
Look for Cookie's thread, he did a fine job of documenting his self install.
Unless you want to do them yourself, why not MOR/ryde?
If you are handy with tools, it is an end user upgrade that can be done in a driveway.
Look for Cookie's thread, he did a fine job of documenting his self install.
Westwind
Well-known member
Re: Hydrolic Brake failure
I watched it being done a week ago across the street, parts cost him $1600 or so, and it took him a total of 4 days, he is a perfectionist and he did a fantastic job. What I saw on this post from the factory was a not so good job. I definately wouldn't order Disk Brakes from the factory as an option on a new fifthwheel unless I could be reassured that I wouldn't receive that
workmanship.
I watched it being done a week ago across the street, parts cost him $1600 or so, and it took him a total of 4 days, he is a perfectionist and he did a fantastic job. What I saw on this post from the factory was a not so good job. I definately wouldn't order Disk Brakes from the factory as an option on a new fifthwheel unless I could be reassured that I wouldn't receive that
workmanship.
pegmikef
Well-known member
Re: Hydrolic Brake failure
Westwind, exactly which factory are you saying does the poor job? Morryde or Heartland. When we toured the Morryde factory a couple of weeks ago, the service folks doing the IS and disc brake installation were professional and sure seemed to know what they were doing, and they were working on a lot of rigs with about a month backlog. I plan on having Morryde install the IS and disc brakes on my BH.
Westwind, exactly which factory are you saying does the poor job? Morryde or Heartland. When we toured the Morryde factory a couple of weeks ago, the service folks doing the IS and disc brake installation were professional and sure seemed to know what they were doing, and they were working on a lot of rigs with about a month backlog. I plan on having Morryde install the IS and disc brakes on my BH.
Westwind
Well-known member
Re: Hydrolic Brake failure
I was referring to the pictures posted at the beginning of this thread on a new Landmark - I understood it to be a factory installation which is an option to the Landmark 365 series. Didn't post anything about Morryde. If I had the $$ I would drive my FW to Morryde and have the suspension ripped out and replaced, put disk brakes, and automatic leveling also. Like you said they have been in the business for years and seem to have it down to a science.
I was referring to the pictures posted at the beginning of this thread on a new Landmark - I understood it to be a factory installation which is an option to the Landmark 365 series. Didn't post anything about Morryde. If I had the $$ I would drive my FW to Morryde and have the suspension ripped out and replaced, put disk brakes, and automatic leveling also. Like you said they have been in the business for years and seem to have it down to a science.
tracks
Well-known member
We had Mor/ryde install the IS and disc brakes in early May and were very impressed with their professionalism. The disc brakes have made big difference with IS and 17.5 up grade of tires and rims feel more confident in our safe travels.
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Cjackg
Well-known member
We had MorRyde install both the I/S & Disk Brakes on our Cyclone 3110 before the Rally at Goshen. The Improvement in both braking and ride was obvious immediately.
Not a cheap upgrade but they do a great job. Had a couple of issues but they are helping us with them now...
Not a cheap upgrade but they do a great job. Had a couple of issues but they are helping us with them now...
wdk450
Well-known member
Re: Hydrolic Brake failure
An electronic warning of trailer hydraulic brake failure is a pretty simple electronic device, but I don't know if anybody makes one. You would just need to electronically compare the input braking voltage to the hydraulic pressure on the braking system with a pressure transducer, and sending an alarm signal to the truck cab if the values don't correlate. Seems like a safety feature the braking systems manufacturer's liability lawyers would clamor for.
I had an incident where I found it difficult to check my trailer braking system before leaving an RV park, drove about 250 miles to my destination RV park (fortunately on freeways in the flat California central valley), and didn't realize the trailer brakes weren't working until I slowed down on the freeway to turn off on the side road to the destination RV park. This was due to a wiring problem in the trailer's battery bank to where the battery running the brake electro/hydraulic actuator never got charged and eventually ran down.
An electronic warning of trailer hydraulic brake failure is a pretty simple electronic device, but I don't know if anybody makes one. You would just need to electronically compare the input braking voltage to the hydraulic pressure on the braking system with a pressure transducer, and sending an alarm signal to the truck cab if the values don't correlate. Seems like a safety feature the braking systems manufacturer's liability lawyers would clamor for.
I had an incident where I found it difficult to check my trailer braking system before leaving an RV park, drove about 250 miles to my destination RV park (fortunately on freeways in the flat California central valley), and didn't realize the trailer brakes weren't working until I slowed down on the freeway to turn off on the side road to the destination RV park. This was due to a wiring problem in the trailer's battery bank to where the battery running the brake electro/hydraulic actuator never got charged and eventually ran down.
porthole
Retired
Re: Hydrolic Brake failure
Confused here Bill. First, if my brakes were not working for a trailer back failure, I would know before I got off the end of my street.
And, the HPU does not run off it's own battery.
If you are using an alarm system type battery to actuate your brakes I think you should reconsider that.
The HPU should be wired into your main DC system.
Confused here Bill. First, if my brakes were not working for a trailer back failure, I would know before I got off the end of my street.
And, the HPU does not run off it's own battery.
If you are using an alarm system type battery to actuate your brakes I think you should reconsider that.
The HPU should be wired into your main DC system.
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Speaking of Mor-ryde IS Acacia RV has still not called me back...
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wdk450
Well-known member
Re: Hydrolic Brake failure
Porthole:
I have a 4 battery bank system. For some reason the positive jumper to 2 of the batteries was disconnected, so 2 of the batteries were being charged and running the house 12 volt system, while the 2 "orphan" batteries were not being charged, and of course the braking accumulator got connected to the positive post of one of the "orphan" batteries. So the system worked for about 3 months until I noticed the lack of braking, and replaced the missing battery system jumper to charge the 2 "orphan" batteries.
You could just as easily have road debris hit and break a hydraulic line, have no braking in the trailer, and have no indication of that condition in the truck, unless you did the manual braking test AFTER the road debris incident.
When I started out on the trip where I realized braking was gone, I pulled out of an RV park with a dirt, large potholed, short length, driveway before connecting with a 55 mph highway where I didn't want to obstruct traffic. That afforded me no good chance to get going 15 mph and do a manual braking test when I started out. Yes, I could have done that at the first stoplight, but my mind moved on to travel and route questions and left initial pullout checks.
Being a retired electronics technician, I thought that a simple comparator circuit could alarm when there is braking voltage input to the actuator, but no braking pressure produced by the actuator, again something you would probably not realize in the truck 25 feet forward of the brake actuator, unless you did the manual braking test. The truck brakes would be stopping the entire rig. The alarm I envision could be sent to the cab by wire or wirelessly.
Porthole:
I have a 4 battery bank system. For some reason the positive jumper to 2 of the batteries was disconnected, so 2 of the batteries were being charged and running the house 12 volt system, while the 2 "orphan" batteries were not being charged, and of course the braking accumulator got connected to the positive post of one of the "orphan" batteries. So the system worked for about 3 months until I noticed the lack of braking, and replaced the missing battery system jumper to charge the 2 "orphan" batteries.
You could just as easily have road debris hit and break a hydraulic line, have no braking in the trailer, and have no indication of that condition in the truck, unless you did the manual braking test AFTER the road debris incident.
When I started out on the trip where I realized braking was gone, I pulled out of an RV park with a dirt, large potholed, short length, driveway before connecting with a 55 mph highway where I didn't want to obstruct traffic. That afforded me no good chance to get going 15 mph and do a manual braking test when I started out. Yes, I could have done that at the first stoplight, but my mind moved on to travel and route questions and left initial pullout checks.
Being a retired electronics technician, I thought that a simple comparator circuit could alarm when there is braking voltage input to the actuator, but no braking pressure produced by the actuator, again something you would probably not realize in the truck 25 feet forward of the brake actuator, unless you did the manual braking test. The truck brakes would be stopping the entire rig. The alarm I envision could be sent to the cab by wire or wirelessly.
Titanguy
Well-known member
Re: Hydrolic Brake failure
Testing Electric/Hydraulic brakes.
Pull the breakaway switch, pump should come on and bog down as it builds pressure. The pump is working.
With TV hooked up. squeeze the controller manual override, should come on and bog down as it builds pressure.
Some TV IBC's require that the TV be moving before the actuator can be activated.
100% of the time flex lines should be used between the caliper and frame mount. Flex line should also be used from the actuator connecting the main line.
Testing Electric/Hydraulic brakes.
Pull the breakaway switch, pump should come on and bog down as it builds pressure. The pump is working.
With TV hooked up. squeeze the controller manual override, should come on and bog down as it builds pressure.
Some TV IBC's require that the TV be moving before the actuator can be activated.
100% of the time flex lines should be used between the caliper and frame mount. Flex line should also be used from the actuator connecting the main line.
Re: Hydrolic Brake failure
Heartland used steel lines to the actuator. MORryde has done the same. Unsure the downside to this.
Heartland used steel lines to the actuator. MORryde has done the same. Unsure the downside to this.
Makes sense - thanks for enlightening me. I don't know much about this stuff but consider myself a life-long learner
porthole
Retired
Re: Hydrolic Brake failure
The only place flex line should be used is where it needs to "flex", e.g. between the caliper and the chassis. Or the axle and chassis if plumbed that way.
The only place flex line should be used is where it needs to "flex", e.g. between the caliper and the chassis. Or the axle and chassis if plumbed that way.
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