Fireplace replacement

Woke up last night to a badly smoking fireplace. Turned off the circuit breaker and turned on a couple of vent fans to clear the smoke. Now I need to figure out how to replace the fireplace. The one I have in my 2014 Landmark is a 26 inch Greystone- model F2611E. There are no visible screws to access and no matter what I do I can't loosen the fireplace. I'm thinking I may have to remove the fake wood trim. Anyone have experience removing a Greystone without removing the fake wood trim?
They no longer make our model but I'm sure I can get an acceptable replacement if I can get the old one out.
 

CoveredWagon

Well-known member
Lift up on the trim around the fireplace. It only takes about 3/4 of an inch.
I just replaced mine. I found no replacement that fits the exact Open It. Greysrtonre Makes one that is 1/2 wider you need to cut the opening 3/4 of inch wider. Ours had the curved glass and I wanted the same. You may find others elsewhere that might fit.
 
Last edited:

david-steph2018

Well-known member
Woke up last night to a badly smoking fireplace. Turned off the circuit breaker and turned on a couple of vent fans to clear the smoke. Now I need to figure out how to replace the fireplace. The one I have in my 2014 Landmark is a 26 inch Greystone- model F2611E. There are no visible screws to access and no matter what I do I can't loosen the fireplace. I'm thinking I may have to remove the fake wood trim. Anyone have experience removing a Greystone without removing the fake wood trim?
They no longer make our model but I'm sure I can get an acceptable replacement if I can get the old one out.
Check one of the RV surplus stores around the Goshen area, you may find a direct replacement there.
 
Lift up on the trim around the fireplace. It only takes about 3/4 of an inch.
I just replaced mine. I found no replacement that fits the exact Open It. Greysrtonre Maes one th A is 1/2 wider you need to cut the opening 3/4 of inch wider
Doesn't budge. I really don't see any trim except for the fake wood trim.
 

Attachments

  • 20221227_082111.jpg
    20221227_082111.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 64

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
We had a 2014 Bighorn. Failed fireplace. Not the same “trim” as in your picture but to access & remove the fireplace I had to remove the faux brick trim panel to access the fireplace anchors
The trim around ours was held in place by numerous thin wire staples
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Lift up on the trim around the fireplace. It only takes about 3/4 of an inch.
I just replaced mine. I found no replacement that fits the exact Open It. Greysrtonre Makes one that is 1/2 wider you need to cut the opening 3/4 of inch wider. Ours had the curved glass and I wanted the same. You may find others elsewhere that might fit.
Our current ‘17 Bighorn has a fireplace as you describe
Our ‘14 model had the fireplace mounting flanges hidden behind trim that required removal
 

CoveredWagon

Well-known member
Doesn't budge. I really don't see any trim except for the fake wood trim.
Yours is enclosed different than ours was, although it looks like the same fireplace. There are 4 screws 2 on each side that hold the fireplace. I'm guessing the side trim will have to be removed carefully.
 
Yours is enclosed different than ours was, although it looks like the same fireplace. There are 4 screws 2 on each side that hold the fireplace. I'm guessing the side trim will have to be removed carefully.
Thanks. That's what I thought. Where did you get the replacement?
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
Why are people leaving these fireplaces running at night while asleep? I sure don't trust mine enough to do it. There are other solutions.
 

centerline

Well-known member
Why are people leaving these fireplaces running at night while asleep? I sure don't trust mine enough to do it. There are other solutions.
if one cant trust the safety of their heating source, then its time to replace it with a heat source that can be trusted..... heat is a fundamental need for us humans, and one cant be worrying all the time about whether its going to cause us harm.....
 
Woke up last night to a badly smoking fireplace. Turned off the circuit breaker and turned on a couple of vent fans to clear the smoke. Now I need to figure out how to replace the fireplace. The one I have in my 2014 Landmark is a 26 inch Greystone- model F2611E. There are no visible screws to access and no matter what I do I can't loosen the fireplace. I'm thinking I may have to remove the fake wood trim. Anyone have experience removing a Greystone without removing the fake wood trim?
They no longer make our model but I'm sure I can get an acceptable replacement if I can get the old one out.
Finally was able to remove the mounding and pull out the fireplace. Almost caught everything on fire.
 

Attachments

  • 20221229_110617.jpg
    20221229_110617.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 50

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Finally was able to remove the mounding and pull out the fireplace. Almost caught everything on fire.
Faulty connection between the romex and receptacle in the box. The electrical junction box connections in RVs suck!!
 
Replaced the plug and outlet box. I'm guessing that overtime a wire became loose and caused overheating. Fireplace still works but we will watch it closely.
 

Attachments

  • 20221229_112822.jpg
    20221229_112822.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 19
  • 20221229_110617.jpg
    20221229_110617.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 24

wdk450

Well-known member
Why are people leaving these fireplaces running at night while asleep? I sure don't trust mine enough to do it. There are other solutions.
My fireplace, original to my 2007 build Bighorn, has an internal construction of the heating element akin to a double insulated electrical device. The heating element (which I have never had trouble with, and never had to replace) is inside its own heavy screened metal enclosure box, and that is mounted within the metal enclosure of the fireplace controls sheet metal surround. While I live fulltime in the Bighorn in Southern California, long ago I decided to use the site provided electricity for as much heat as I can, not needing to buy much propane that way. In winter time I run the fireplace nearly fulltime (though not at the full heat setting) and a small electric space heater as needed. I pretty much just use propane for my stovetop cooking, and recently did my first propane tank refill in about 2 years of fulltime living. I also have an electric induction cooktop portable burner to back up the propane stovetop, but don't use it much.

The biggest safety issue I encountered with this setup, was the RV industry's use of insulation displacement connector (think Scotchlok) for the wiring for the 110 VAC outlets throughout the trailer. I only discovered how flaky these connectors are by noticing that the pilot light on my space heater was flickering while using the heater. I investigated the situation, and then rewired ALL 110 volt outlets inside the trailer with standard wire and clamp screw home outlets mounted in boxes.
On edit: After reading most current postings on this thread, this definitely sounds like Insulation Displacement Connector high current connection failure. Too small a wire/connector contact area on the IDC connectors versus a standard outlet wire/compression screw to handle full rated 15 amp branch load.

Use the Search function on the forum for "Insulation Displacement Connectors"

You Tube on RV Insulation Displacement 110 volt outlets:
to learn more about this.
 
Last edited:
Top