Ground clearance on Cyclone - almost lost spare tire hanger

[bobca1]

Seems I must be pushing the limits of what is considered allowable terrain for my Cyclone 3110. I thought toy haulers were supposed to be able to leave the pavement This past weekend once again I scraped the rear jacks leaving the highway - dip in the road was more severe that it looked at first noticed some gouges in the asphalt when while exiting but by then I was committed and had to continue. This time the spare tire hit as well and was almost yanked loose from the hanger. Going to see if I can move the rear jacks up a little bit using other bolt holes (if there is clearance up top to allow for this). Not really planing to fix the spare hanger and reattach the spare in same place since almost certain will drag it again in the future. Other than throwing the spare in garage or back of pickup, has anyone else tried something else like attaching to read door perhaps (although would have to remove prior to lowering door). My trailer sits pretty level when attached to my truck anything else that can be done to improve rear clearance?

 

[OEFVET]

Your tire carrier is mangled. I would remove it or relocate it. My 4200 has a different type mount for the spare. Do you have the six point leveling system or the manual hand crank jacks? If it's the six point you could mount them higher. That's the reason there are so many bolt holes.

 

[bobca1]

I have the hydraulic 6 point leveling. That's what I was hoping to hear just wasn't sure how much clearance there is above the jacks and how much I can raise them. Good project for this weekend I'll take out the bolts and see what I can do. I don't have any issue with carrying and using extra wood blocks so jacks don't overextend.

 

[kasey200]

I took my spare off my 3100 because it rubbed when i backed into my driveway. Then I went with the "throw it in the back of the truck method" for quite a while. Then i had my very first blowout and can you guess where my spare was?? laying in my driveway!! i now have it laying in the garage but I have a plan to move the spare tire frame forward of the wheels. this should eliminate my clearance issues. i hope.

 

[Miltp920]

Similar thing happened to me, but my tire changer mechanism failed internally and just dropped my spare tire about 8-10 inches and it dangled there until I got home and saw it. If the tire bottomed out, I could not tell, because I could see no scuffs on the tire, but I did go out a gas station with a pretty steep drop 50 miles from finishing my trip. I did this within one year warranty - and Heartland sent me the entire steel mounting frame with a new spare tire mechanism mounted to it. Mine was not bent as much as yours. I just had to unbolt the old and install the new. I put it back in the same spot, but I like the idea of moving it in front of the wheels. Perhaps Heartland should consider moving the spare tire mount to in front of the wheels to save us this headache.

 

[cookie]

I never take our rig off of a paved road and had the same thing happen.
I don't think that the steel used in that carrier is strong enough once that tire gets cranked up in there.
I did a little modification and it hasn't moved since.
Pictures are not in order, but basically all I did was beat the original back into palace and weld some heavy angle iron over it.

Peace
Dave

 

[OEFVET]

bobca1,

Keep in mind you may need blocks more often since your rear levelers will be higher. I haven't raised mine yet because I haven't bottomed out but if it occurs I will adjust mine higher as well.

 

[porthole]

My driveway is steep and we constantly hit the jacks and sometimes the spare.
I moved my spare forward as far as I could behind the rear axle. I also dump all the air in the trucks airbags to gain a little clearance and I raised my rear jacks.
Keep in mind, if you move one of the rear jacks you have to move an equal amount with all four jacks.

 

[Hippy]

There was another thread similar in regards to the spare tire. I commented ( see below ) and what I did. I had thoughts of moving the rear levels up but I saw there was not enough clearance even to move it one notch up.


On my 2014 Cyclone 3110 I had the same issue.
As I pulled into the driveway at my storage yard at angle, I thought I would not drag my spare. I drove slowly thinking I had cleared only to see in my rear mirror I dropped my spare in the street. After picking up the spareand parking the 5th wheel, I looked underneath to assess the damage. I had a bent spare tire crank to include the H looking bar that it was attache to. Further looking at the H bar, I saw it was only held on by 4 bolts. I took it off, bent, straighten everything back.
Before putting it back, I looked to see where I could re locate. I was able to re locate the bar approx. 2' forward, closer to the rear axle. Before I would be able to do this I had to take off the Toy Lok because it would be in the way of the H bar and re locate. I re located 1' 1/2 just to the rear of the right rear level. Drilled 4 holes and re installed everything back in place. Now I have more clearance and don't worry as much. I can post photos if requested. Hope this helps

 

[CycloneDave]

I was afraid this could happen to me. After replacing my Blow Max tires I did not want to loose a brand new Goodyear G614. I removed the Spare Tire Rack, cut off the 2" brackets that were welded on, shortened the rack an inch or so to allow it to be remounted above the frame instead of below it. I was also able to move the rack closer to the gas tanks as well. I figure I gained approximately 3 inches of clearance. I had to relocate the Toy Lock.

Now the only issue I have to worry about is when will I loose one of the Jacks. I have already scraped the bottom of them coming out of a parking lot or two. If anyone has a solution I am currently researching a 2" lift or other solution. My Stock 4X4 Dodge sits a little higher than others so I am riding nose high just a bit.

 

[oscar]

No, it doesn't take much to scrape the rear. Both my (electrical) jacks have been "kissed". I recall reading on this here very forum about some kick butt rear steel rollers that can be installed for those moments.... along these lines.....

http://www.etrailer.com/Skid-Wheels/Ultra-Fab-Products/UF48-979023.html

I'd be interested if someone figured out the geometry.....

 

[jmgratz]

I found some 'skid' wheels at Tractor Supply. They have several different types at their stores. I mounted them to the factory mounted trailer hitch using U-bolts.

 

[oscar]

The stuff I'm referring to is weld on. There's some pretty good forces at play here. But, I would like to see a pic of what you did.

 

[JohnD]

No, it doesn't take much to scrape the rear. Both my (electrical) jacks have been "kissed". I recall reading on this here very forum about some kick butt rear steel rollers that can be installed for those moments.... along these lines.....

http://www.etrailer.com/Skid-Wheels/Ultra-Fab-Products/UF48-979023.html

I'd be interested if someone figured out the geometry.....

They work OK on pavement . . . but not so good on dirt and rocks.

Our old Coachman TT had wheels on the back bumper when we bought it, but backing into our side yard once they hit the rocks, they dug in and would completely stop the truck and trailer.

I took them off.

 

[porthole]

I was afraid this could happen to me. After replacing my Blow Max tires I did not want to loose a brand new Goodyear G614. I removed the Spare Tire Rack, cut off the 2" brackets that were welded on, shortened the rack an inch or so to allow it to be remounted above the frame instead of below it. I was also able to move the rack closer to the gas tanks as well. I figure I gained approximately 3 inches of clearance. I had to relocate the Toy Lock.

Now the only issue I have to worry about is when will I loose one of the Jacks. I have already scraped the bottom of them coming out of a parking lot or two. If anyone has a solution I am currently researching a 2" lift or other solution. My Stock 4X4 Dodge sits a little higher than others so I am riding nose high just a bit.

Best choice would be to level the trailer, but certainly not the least expensive.
Are you referring to LevelUp jacks?

I hit my driveway because of the slope.
I used to run up on 2x10 8' long step boards I made and placed at the bottom of the driveway. They were too heavy and awkward to use for every trip in or out of the driveway. So I switched to 6' x 12" (approximate) strips of polyethylene I cut from the old water tanks. The jacks still hit, but now slid nice and easy over the concrete driveway.

That got old as well. I ended up moving the 4 rear jacks up one bolt hole. One problem solved, another created. On the rare occasion when leveling, I run out of "ram extension". But, this is easily overcome with some boards under the jacks, which I always carry anyway.

If you decide to move the jacks, all four must be moved the same amount. Otherwise you can run into a situation where you run out of extension on one or two jacks, but the other two keep extending.

 

[porthole]

No, it doesn't take much to scrape the rear. Both my (electrical) jacks have been "kissed". I recall reading on this here very forum about some kick butt rear steel rollers that can be installed for those moments.... along these lines.....

http://www.etrailer.com/Skid-Wheels/Ultra-Fab-Products/UF48-979023.html

I'd be interested if someone figured out the geometry.....

I gave those some thought but decided not to test the frame.

Although it would only be a brief amount of time, I just am not comfortable supporting the entire trailer weight on the two ends, the pin box and wherever those rollers are mounted.

 

[bobca1]

Thanks for the info. Been so busy last few weeks and now traveling, but hoping to have another look at my options in couple weeks. You and previous posted provided much help here I should be ok too if I can remount the spare little further up and higher 3" would make a big difference. Hoping to be able to move the jacks up too but based on prior posts seems no clearance for that on 3110. I think it's only a matter of time before I catch one and bend or rip it off, just hope it's not the frame that gets damaged and I can replace with a new jack. I can drop front of my trailer about 1.5 inches by doing alternates ride height on my air suspension, I make sure to do that now before entering low clearance scenario every little bit helps. I wish liepert/heartland attached the rear jacks in a way that offered more clearance, especially on a toy hauler! I already carry extra blocks to bea able to use system in uneven terrain.

I was afraid this could happen to me. After replacing my Blow Max tires I did not want to loose a brand new Goodyear G614. I removed the Spare Tire Rack, cut off the 2" brackets that were welded on, shortened the rack an inch or so to allow it to be remounted above the frame instead of below it. I was also able to move the rack closer to the gas tanks as well. I figure I gained approximately 3 inches of clearance. I had to relocate the Toy Lock.

Now the only issue I have to worry about is when will I loose one of the Jacks. I have already scraped the bottom of them coming out of a parking lot or two. If anyone has a solution I am currently researching a 2" lift or other solution. My Stock 4X4 Dodge sits a little higher than others so I am riding nose high just a bit.

 

[oscar]

I gave those some thought but decided not to test the frame.

Although it would only be a brief amount of time, I just am not comfortable supporting the entire trailer weight on the two ends, the pin box and wherever those rollers are mounted.

That thought did cross my mind. Having read quite a few stories on frame failures up front it may be a serious consideration. The jacks and spare hanger function as a "crumple zone?"
Lol......

 

[flashkow]

BAL has a aftermarket spare tire rack for $90 that slides your spare out to the side. It tucks underneath between the frame and has great clearance. I totally crushed my spare carrier on my Torque 325 .