Hitch too low

[skozub01]

We got a WD hitch with our heartland wilderness but it doesn’t fit the F350 we have so I used my Gen Y Hitch as a drop and installed a 2” sleeve to accommodate the WD hitch. The unit feels like it sits low but I’ve checked and the nose of the RV is level.

I’m new to towing. The dealer said it was fine when we drove off but is it really? What advice or input do you have on this configuration.

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[DaveC6]

From the photos it does look low. Here’s what I would do. Hook everything up including the spring bars. Then measure the distance of the trailer frame to the ground front and rear (at the bottom of the I-Beam, not the at trailer tongue). So somewhere in the front, say under the front storage and again at the back near the back bumper. Prefect would be identical, say 23.0” front, 23.0” rear. I was thinking your next jump up on the hitch is probably a 2.5”, but your actual WD hitch can be raised in about 1” or 1.5” increments. So you can raise the ball from the hitch itself in smaller increments. So if the measurements are 21.0” front and 25.0” rear you can still fine tune the hitch itself.


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[Silverado23]

Is the hitch on your 350 2 1/2 or 3 inch receiver?

without the geny installed. You may be able to get a 2 1/2 to 2 inch sleeve adapter and then your hitch may be the right height, the WD head looks like it could be dropped up to a couple of inches without using the Gen-y and have it close to where you need it.



Measuring as stated earlier will help get you the information before making adjustments.

It also may be possible to buy a specific drop shank for the wd head such as this.

You can get them in 2 1/2" also but they get heavy. The advantage is that you take the slop out that causes noise and bouncing, etc.

Examples
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Curt/C17123.html


https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Equal-i-zer/EQ90-02-4900.html

 

[skozub01]

Thanks for all the feedback. The hitch is 2 1/2 on the F350.

I’m going to look into the adjustments you recommended and see about that drop hitch as well.


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[NYSUPstater]

I'd also be considering replacing the cotter pins w/ lockable pins everywhere on your hitch. Just my $.02

 

[WBG]

I'd also be considering replacing the cotter pins w/ lockable pins everywhere on your hitch. Just my $.02

I second that. We were camped at Glacier and only had half our pins locked. Kids got in the back and stole all the unlocked ones. Fortunately I had spares. Now ALL my pins have locks. Cheap insurance.

 

[khuffmanjr]

I know this is a bit late, but in case you or someone else is still struggling with this...

Your hitch maker should sell different weight distribution hitch shanks that will allow you to raise or drop the head as needed. For example, BlueOx has a huge selection of shanks for their hitch. http://www.blueox.com/trailer-towing/hitch-accessories/

And FWIW, if you are ever looking to upgrade your WD hitch, I loved my Swaypro from BlueOx. Awesome hitch.

Good luck!
Ken

 

[PondSkum]

I would say that it's probably OK the way it is, as long as each of those components are rated over the weight you are pulling and tongue weight. BUT, like mentioned, I believe your best option is to buy the extended drop bar for your WD hitch and eliminate the Gen-Y drop, to remove any unnecessary joints that will cause movement and noise during towing.

Also, after looking at it closer and thinking about it, with this configuration, the WD bars are not actually distributing the weight the way they are supposed to. With the extra connection, the WD bars are not putting the tension on the actual frame mounted hitch, they are putting the tension on the Gen-Y drop down.