honda eg5000cl generator to supply ac power to cyclone 4100.

[chief916]

Duane...please forgive my lack of knowledge on how to use this forum. i'm kinda new at this so could you pleas tell...what or where your signature is so that I could go to that link.
thanks

 

[chief916]

this is some great info. this is stuff I never knew.
thank you.

 

[chief916]

You'll want to read this article before installing the EMS.

Cookie what you have posted I read the article posted by Dan. Its on how to make a G-N jumper plug. is this what your alluding to?

Not sure what your thoughts are, but it does have to do with the EMS.
Since RV's have a floated bond your EMS will throw an error code and will not allow power to flow through it when using a generator as it sees the genny as having an open ground.
That is why when using a genny you will have to jumper the neutral to ground somewhere along the line.
The article shows a of method of doing that.
I did mine a little differently, but it functions the same.

Peace
Dave

 

[jnbhobe]

Duane...please forgive my lack of knowledge on how to use this forum. i'm kinda new at this so could you pleas tell...what or where your signature is so that I could go to that link.
thanks

Duane has a link attached at the bottom of his signature. At the bottom of his post to you Mods --- TST TPMS --- SAT TV --- Onan run issues

 

[HornedToad]

This is why we need to be so careful on this forum. The EU7000i is a RV generator. It actually produces 58 amps (EG5000 is 18.8 amps and has to be balanced) and does NOT require that you balance the load. That is also why it cost 2.5 times as much as the eg5000cl. Please do NOT hook up using the above instructions. Running the eg5000cl at 240 volts could damage the generator and the RV. I feel I am to blame for you really do need to make sure you use an electrician if you are going to use non RV generators with a RV. 120 volts hurts, 240 volts kills so please get as much professional help as you need.

The control panel and instructions for "balancing the load" on these two generators are identical. I think the real difference between the Honda recreational generator and open frame contractor generator is in the operating decibels not the power output. Maybe a electrician will correct me if I'm wrong...
follow this link to see the exact difference in power output ( http://powerequipment.honda.com/generators/selecting-a-generator#Power ) The EG5000 with DAVR (Digital Automatic Voltage Regulator) "can power everything from a laptop to a table saw" and the EU7000 Inverter produces the cleanest power of all and is "safer for sensitive electronics, such as computers." Onan generators use Digital Voltage Regulation.

Fred is right if you are only going to run one AC then the three prong 30A plug will perform better. With the three prong adapter The EG5000 will give you 30A/120V across both sides of the panel up to a maximum of 30 amps. The four prong 30A to 50A adapter set to 120V/240V will give you 18.8 amps / 120 volts on each side of the panel up to a total of 37.5. amps. The four prong on an EU7000 will supply 22.9 amps to each side for a total of 45.8, plenty enough to run two ACs.

I made the same assumption that the 240V setting could be an issue, but it was clarified by a post from wdk450 in the other referenced thread...
"Horned Toad, I think you are wrong. The standard RV 50 amp service has 2 - 50 amp, 120 volt feeds that are 180 degrees out of phase with each other, yielding 240 volts 50 amps if the power is measured across hot wires L1 and L2, and not L1 to neutral and L2 to neutral which measure 120 volts each.
Read closely the 2nd and 3rd paragraphs of this webpage[/I]: http://www.myrv.us/electric/pg/50amp_service.htm"

The thread I directed you to was all about running two ACs and the benefit of using the four prong adapter would be if you wanted to try and run two ACs. The EG5000 is right on the edge of the amps/watts needed so it's best you stick with the three prong adapter and one AC.

I have to balance/manage the load even when I'm plugged into shore power, when Helen blow dries her hair I have to turn things off, or it trips the breaker.

 

[HornedToad]

I think the real difference between the Honda recreational generator and open frame contractor generator is in the operating decibels not the power output. Maybe a electrician will correct me if I'm wrong...

No takers???

I was wrong. There is another difference between these generators… the way they are grounded.

“Contractor-type generators such as your Coleman 5000 are generally G-N bonded internally, which is why it runs your RV just fine. However, many portable inverter generators from companies such as Yamaha and Honda (your EU3000 specifically) have floated Neutrals (no internal Ground-Neutral Bond) since they expect an external G-N bond to happen somewhere else. And while RV-approved generators may have an internal G-N bond, it seems that many of the most popular portable inverter generators from Honda and Yamaha have floating neutrals.”

It seems the expert thinks the cheap EG5000cl contractor generator “runs your RV just fine” while the expensive EU7000is “RV” inverter generator is lacking. But ya’ll knew that… this quote is from the link in the thread that everyone’s already read. http://www.noshockzone.org/generator-ground-neutral-bonding/

There is another good article from the expert about how “240V can damage the RV”. However, I don’t recall recommending anyone plug their RV into the dryer outlet in their laundry room.
http://www.noshockzone.org/accidentally-plugging-into-240-volt-outlet/

I’m sorry, I’ll be more careful to get my facts straight before I call someone out on the forum.

 

[HornedToad]

Still No Takers… Maybe I wasn’t wrong???

I was accused of carelessly posting comments that could get somebody killed.

Chief, I wouldn’t do that to you. I've gone a little further than just randomly Googling something off the internet. I know what I said in my post works because I’ve done it myself.

I referred you to a post with photos of us uncrating a new Honda generator with the four prong 30A plug and 120V/240V switch in question. On that same post I vetted the operation of this switch with feedback from several other members on the forum. We ran the break in and field tested this generator, using the different settings and adapters, and have ran it under load for at least 100 hours using the four prong 30A to 50A adapter with the switch set to 120V/240V to power a 50A fiver with two ACs.

I also have a little experience with contractor type generators. Pictured below is my Ridgid 6800 watt contractor style generator that has the same voltage regulated output and four prong twist lock 30A plug as the Honda EG5000cl generator in question. It doesn’t have a 120V to 120V/240V switch because it only has the one 30A plug that is permanently wired to 120V/240V. I've used this generator to log almost 1700 trouble free hours over the course of five years powering many different trailers.

I’m done... unless someone wants to take me up on my offer to correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[porthole]

“Contractor-type generators such as your Coleman 5000 are generally G-N bonded internally, which is why it runs your RV just fine.

OSHA requirement for job site generators to be grounded.

 

[chief916]

HornedToad....thank you so much for all the effort that you and all the other members have imparted to me on this issue. Gonna take me a while to digest all of it. Will let you know how things go. Thanks again
Ben

 

[Amos75]

Hey I also think that you should not exceed 37.5 amps on this generator. Most of the honda portable generators work on 45 amps. Well in my opinion you should get help from a professional.