Hot Hot in the bedroom!!!
- Thread starter sforgetst
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htneighbors
Unbelievably Blessed!
Uncle Rog
Well-known member
It has been bitter cold here also. This morning it was 51 when I pulled out at 0600! On Mon AM there was frost on a couple of roof tops down the road! Winter is tough. We have not been able to get the horn out so Fri or Sat we are going to the beach for lunch. Two weeks ago I got a pretty bad sun burn when re-finishing the patio / deck furniture, go figure.................
sforgetst, Bob is right get the operable registers AND check the plenum connections for the LR area ducts. On another note if you are hooked up an electric heater is nice.................
sforgetst, Bob is right get the operable registers AND check the plenum connections for the LR area ducts. On another note if you are hooked up an electric heater is nice.................
Shadowchek
Well-known member
I had the same problem. In ours it was in the way it was designed. I did a mod that fixed it. Not an easy one though. I will document it when I have more time. At least I took picks when I did it.
Greg
2010augusta
Well-known member
Greg, I am interested in your mod as well. I blocked of the vent in the bath and bed rooms. It cooled them off but did not help the rest and I think I am using more propane now.
When I had the control board replaced on my unit, the technician told me to never block the vents. He said that most times that there is a board failure it is caused by poor air flow.
BTW: when we use our heater the bedroom area does not get as warm as the living room area... this is the way we like it.
Perhaps you have a blockage in your living area duct(s).
Eh!
BTW: when we use our heater the bedroom area does not get as warm as the living room area... this is the way we like it.
Perhaps you have a blockage in your living area duct(s).
Eh!
Delaine and Lindy
Well-known member
Heat Register....
Our 5er came with Heat Register's and we can adjust the heat at what ever area we like. I did install them in other 5er's we have owned. You can also get a magnet type that covers the registers. Don't remember were we got them. Was one of those little sales books I think. GBY.....
Our 5er came with Heat Register's and we can adjust the heat at what ever area we like. I did install them in other 5er's we have owned. You can also get a magnet type that covers the registers. Don't remember were we got them. Was one of those little sales books I think. GBY.....
Tanks all of you for reply,
I am a little bit nervous to block the register as Bob & Patty, Uncle Rog suggest...
while reading the message of Geeksruk about the control board...
I am gone wait as 2010Agusta for the mod of Shadowchek ( the pressure is on your side now).
Geeksrus: How can I check if there is a blockage in the dock? All the ducks are under the floor!
Serge
I am a little bit nervous to block the register as Bob & Patty, Uncle Rog suggest...
while reading the message of Geeksruk about the control board...
I am gone wait as 2010Agusta for the mod of Shadowchek ( the pressure is on your side now).
Geeksrus: How can I check if there is a blockage in the dock? All the ducks are under the floor!
Serge
SmokeyBare
Well-known member
Take the floor registers off and use a small hand mirror & flash light to look at the duct work.
Shadowchek
Well-known member
Heater mod
When I turned on the heater I had a lot of flow going into the bedroom and batrhroom but very little down below. I pulled the basement wall off to see what I could see. I found the duct going to the bedroom was a 4" duct comming off of the side of the heater. The bathroom was the same way. then there was a 2" or so duct that wasn't very long leading to no where in paticular for heating the underbelly. The heat for downstairs came from a rectangular knock out on the bottom of the furnace that was supposed to be butted up and sealed to a similar cut out in the floor connected to some metal ductwork. The problem with mine was that first off in order for the air to get to the ductwork it had to go over and under the heat exchanger before it it could get out of the furnace. That is a big air flow killer. Then in my case the rectangular hole in the furnace didn't line up with the hole leading to the ductwork in the floor leaving a 2" by 10" or so air leak. I took a good look at the furnace and saw it had indentations where there are knock outs in the rear of the heater. I realized if I could utilize these it would be a direct flow out the back of the unit. I disconnected the bathroom, bedroom and underbelly ducts from the furnace. I could then turn those connectors (collars) and remove them from the furnace. I turned off the power to the unit including disconnecting the battery. I turned off the propane. I then disconnected the wiring and the gas line from the heater. I removed the outside cover to the furnace by removing the screws. I then removed the furnace by removing the screws holding it in. Ther might have been a couple in the bottom of the heater somewhere can't remember for sure. I pulled the heater out of the 5ver. I cut a piece of sheet metal big enough to cover the existing hole caulked around the hole put the sheet metal in place and screwed it down. I then marked and cut a new hole about 10",s or so back from where the furnace would be. The hole was a rectangle aproxamately 4",s x 14",s just going by memory. I removed the screws holding the back plate on the heater on and removed it. There are 3 knockouts in that plate I knocked them all out. I then cut another piece of sheet metal the size of the opening on bottom of the heater to use to seal that opening off. I put the metal over the opening sealing it off. I went to the hardware store and bought some 4" aluminum flexible duct. I made 3 collars to connect the ductwork to the back plate of the heater. you could probably buy some at the hardware store and modify them or get them from the heater manufacturer. I cut another piece of sheet metal big enough to cover the new hole I had cut. I cut 3 holes in it just big enought to get the metal flexible duct through. I ran the flexible duct through each of the holes i had just cut in the sheet metal. I left just enough poking through to flatten it out enough to fit in the duct below and angle it to point somewhat towards the back of the coach giving it a somewhat smoothe directed flow to where it needed to go. I then slid the flattened out part of the duct into the new hole untill the metal plate covered the hole. I screwed the plate down and sealed it. I Installed and sealed the collars in the rear furnace plate. I held the rear furnace plate in place where it would be if the furnace was installed. I had marked this point prior to removing the furnace. I then cut the ducts just long enough to connect to the collars when the furnace was installed. I then installed and sealed the back plate with collars attached to the heater. Living here in Ca I wasn't worried about heating the underbelly so I really only needed 2 of the 3 side openings one for the bedroom duct and one for the bathroom duct. So I Sealed the one on on the far side off with another piece of sheet metal. I then reinstalled the furnace. I attached the 3 flexible ducts to the collars on the back of the furnace securing them with large hose clamps. That left me with 2 holes on the side of the furnace. I reinstalled the collars that I had removed previously. I chose to use one of the 4" ones and the 2" one. I hooked the bedroom duct to the 4" collar. I hooked up the 2" duct to it's collar. I stuck the 2" duct inside the 4" duct leading to the bathroom and taped around it to seal it. I figured the 2" was plenty for the bathroom and I was right. If you want to keep the underbelly heat I would suggest hooking up the remaining ducts as it was origionally but partially block the duct going to the bathroom with something that won't flap around and make noise. I moved the adjustable register from the bathroom to the bedroom giving me controll over my bedroom air flow. I removed the rest of the registers one by one and sealed the register boots to the floor to eliminate air gaps. I reinstalled the registers turned on the power and gas and fired it up. I had saw dust comming out of the registers in the kitchen and living room. It was a lot of work but it sure is nice now.
Greg
When I turned on the heater I had a lot of flow going into the bedroom and batrhroom but very little down below. I pulled the basement wall off to see what I could see. I found the duct going to the bedroom was a 4" duct comming off of the side of the heater. The bathroom was the same way. then there was a 2" or so duct that wasn't very long leading to no where in paticular for heating the underbelly. The heat for downstairs came from a rectangular knock out on the bottom of the furnace that was supposed to be butted up and sealed to a similar cut out in the floor connected to some metal ductwork. The problem with mine was that first off in order for the air to get to the ductwork it had to go over and under the heat exchanger before it it could get out of the furnace. That is a big air flow killer. Then in my case the rectangular hole in the furnace didn't line up with the hole leading to the ductwork in the floor leaving a 2" by 10" or so air leak. I took a good look at the furnace and saw it had indentations where there are knock outs in the rear of the heater. I realized if I could utilize these it would be a direct flow out the back of the unit. I disconnected the bathroom, bedroom and underbelly ducts from the furnace. I could then turn those connectors (collars) and remove them from the furnace. I turned off the power to the unit including disconnecting the battery. I turned off the propane. I then disconnected the wiring and the gas line from the heater. I removed the outside cover to the furnace by removing the screws. I then removed the furnace by removing the screws holding it in. Ther might have been a couple in the bottom of the heater somewhere can't remember for sure. I pulled the heater out of the 5ver. I cut a piece of sheet metal big enough to cover the existing hole caulked around the hole put the sheet metal in place and screwed it down. I then marked and cut a new hole about 10",s or so back from where the furnace would be. The hole was a rectangle aproxamately 4",s x 14",s just going by memory. I removed the screws holding the back plate on the heater on and removed it. There are 3 knockouts in that plate I knocked them all out. I then cut another piece of sheet metal the size of the opening on bottom of the heater to use to seal that opening off. I put the metal over the opening sealing it off. I went to the hardware store and bought some 4" aluminum flexible duct. I made 3 collars to connect the ductwork to the back plate of the heater. you could probably buy some at the hardware store and modify them or get them from the heater manufacturer. I cut another piece of sheet metal big enough to cover the new hole I had cut. I cut 3 holes in it just big enought to get the metal flexible duct through. I ran the flexible duct through each of the holes i had just cut in the sheet metal. I left just enough poking through to flatten it out enough to fit in the duct below and angle it to point somewhat towards the back of the coach giving it a somewhat smoothe directed flow to where it needed to go. I then slid the flattened out part of the duct into the new hole untill the metal plate covered the hole. I screwed the plate down and sealed it. I Installed and sealed the collars in the rear furnace plate. I held the rear furnace plate in place where it would be if the furnace was installed. I had marked this point prior to removing the furnace. I then cut the ducts just long enough to connect to the collars when the furnace was installed. I then installed and sealed the back plate with collars attached to the heater. Living here in Ca I wasn't worried about heating the underbelly so I really only needed 2 of the 3 side openings one for the bedroom duct and one for the bathroom duct. So I Sealed the one on on the far side off with another piece of sheet metal. I then reinstalled the furnace. I attached the 3 flexible ducts to the collars on the back of the furnace securing them with large hose clamps. That left me with 2 holes on the side of the furnace. I reinstalled the collars that I had removed previously. I chose to use one of the 4" ones and the 2" one. I hooked the bedroom duct to the 4" collar. I hooked up the 2" duct to it's collar. I stuck the 2" duct inside the 4" duct leading to the bathroom and taped around it to seal it. I figured the 2" was plenty for the bathroom and I was right. If you want to keep the underbelly heat I would suggest hooking up the remaining ducts as it was origionally but partially block the duct going to the bathroom with something that won't flap around and make noise. I moved the adjustable register from the bathroom to the bedroom giving me controll over my bedroom air flow. I removed the rest of the registers one by one and sealed the register boots to the floor to eliminate air gaps. I reinstalled the registers turned on the power and gas and fired it up. I had saw dust comming out of the registers in the kitchen and living room. It was a lot of work but it sure is nice now.
Greg
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SmokeyBare
Well-known member
Thanks for sharing Greg,
Your description was easy to follow and the photos are a real help for those who may be interested in taking on this project. With out a doubt the flow of air going to the living room & kitchen area had to really improve. This will be something I will consider...
Marv
Your description was easy to follow and the photos are a real help for those who may be interested in taking on this project. With out a doubt the flow of air going to the living room & kitchen area had to really improve. This will be something I will consider...
Marv
Shadowchek
Well-known member
One more quick note. There is no return plennum so basically your furnace is taking air from your basement and anywhere that isn't sealed off from the furnace compartment. So you could be potentially sucking in a lot of cold outside air to try to heat. The warmer the air going in to your furnace the warmer it is comming out. You want to recirculate the warmer inside air as much as possible. It would be a good Idea to look for and seal off any major gaps. Keep your basement doors closed while running your heater and keep anything you don't want to smell inside out of your basement. There is a temperature sensor inside your furnace so if it gets to hot it will shut off the burners. So your furnace needs a lot of air running through it to keep it cool enough to prevent this. You can slightly reduce the flow of air at one register or maybe 2 but anymore than that will most likely shut it down. For the most part the solutuon is more air to the colder areas not less to the warm ones. It will never be a great efficient system but with a little knowledge and work you can take care of the worst of it and make it confortable and functional.
Greg
Greg
2010augusta
Well-known member
Thanks Greg, Good work there.
On my Landmark, Heartland has changed over to a dedicate duct system. Meaning the a single flexible duct is ran for each register. If I am guessing right, yours has an metal duct built into the floor that is common for the kitchen and living area?
On my Landmark, Heartland has changed over to a dedicate duct system. Meaning the a single flexible duct is ran for each register. If I am guessing right, yours has an metal duct built into the floor that is common for the kitchen and living area?
Shadowchek
Well-known member
You are right on my configuration. I would be curious to see how they ran the dedicated duct system obviously there is a problem with it or at least yours. I know a longer run can have a huge impact on your airflow. Especially on these systems that don't really move a lot of air in the first place. makes me wonder if all the connections are good and if the dedicated lines start at the furnace or somwhere down the line. It could come off of a plennum instead of off the unit itself. I would be interested to find out. Let me know if you get that far.
Greg
Greg
travelin501
Member
We use a heater in the living room area, run the ceiling fan, and a small oscilating fan pointed to the ceiling in the bedroom. This has worked for us circulating the air and no hot spots.
wyleyrabbit
Well-known member
Serge,
Well, obviously there's your problem. If you have ducks under the floor, all sorts of craziness can happen.
(sorry Serge and everyone else, I simply could not resist)
Chris
!!
No idea... others had mentioned that they had problems with 'crushed' ducts. Maybe someone that had the problem can help or perhaps you could talk to your dealer.
Eh!
No idea... others had mentioned that they had problems with 'crushed' ducts. Maybe someone that had the problem can help or perhaps you could talk to your dealer.
Eh!
Larryheadhunter
X-Rookies Still Luving it
Eh, Greg does this require tools? I don't know what half the words you used actually are. Thanks for fireplaces and living in CA. I guess being an HVAC expert helps, huh?
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