Kitchen only DC failure

[pcthikersam]

I have a 2010 3055RL Bighorn. My kitchen vent fan, vent hood light and over sink DC light all stopped working. I checked all circuit breakers and fuses. No help.
Has anyone experienced this? If so what was the problem / solution?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Direct contact: samnpatty@gmail.com

 

[fiverdude]

I recently had a similar problem. All the breakers were fine, fuses OK, GFI switch OK. I noticed one of the lead wires on the back of the breaker switch itself had come off. Easy fix. Hope yours is too. Regards fiverdude !!

 

[danemayer]

Moved thread to 12V DC sub-forum

 

[Wrenched]

Have you checked that all of the GFI receptacles are OK? (IE not tripped?) Sometimes it's surprising to see what runs off of those things,...

 

[wdk450]

I think that all of the devices mentioned are 12 volt DC. GFI has nothing to do with it.

I had a similar problem with my refrig and the mentioned stovetop area lights and fan, except the fuse kept intermittently blowing and I kept intermittently having my refrigerator quit working (usually while I was driving, and had no idea the refrig quiit). I learned a lot about this circuit in trying to find the problem. In my Bighorn, the 12 volt power comes from the fusepanel to a 2 wire terminal strip on the outside back middle (via access panel) of the refrigerator. The connection to the rest of the stovetop devices is made there. The wires (red and white?) to those devices goes off towards the right (as you face the access panel/refrigerator rear) to the stovetop devices. If your wiring is similar, and you have a DC voltmeter, this may help you find if there is power on this wire.

I think the first device on the circuit beyond the refrigerator is the overhead light (not the stovetop hood light). If you unscrew the fixture from the top of the prep area you should be able to access the wiring (a little) in the small space there.

 

[JohnD]

I have a 2010 3055RL Bighorn. My kitchen vent fan, vent hood light and over sink DC light all stopped working. I checked all circuit breakers and fuses. No help.
Has anyone experienced this? If so what was the problem / solution?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Direct contact: samnpatty@gmail.com

We had that happen once, along with the microwave not working as well.

I checked the fuses . . . all good!

I then looked at the GFI outlet in the bathroom and it had tripped.

I reset it . . . and the kitchen came back on!

I don't remember what tripped it . . . but I'm sure it probably had something to do with running the coffee maker and the toaster at the same time!

 

[jnbhobe]

He has a loss of DC power not AC.

 

[Tomharg]

I fixed a similar problem in a friend's North Trail. In the trailers I've seen, including my BH 3010RE and my friend's NT, DC wiring is connected with wire nuts instead of crimped connections. In my friend's case, a wire had "escaped" from a wire nut, shutting off everything downstream. I found the culprit by removing a few switches from the wall and tracing the wiring which tends to be set up with a power supplying pair coming to a single point and branching off from there. I suggest starting at either the switch for the over-sink light or the light fixture itself (since those are probably easiest to get to) and tug on the wires from any wire nuts you find. There is usually plenty of slack in the wires so it shouldn't be hard to pull out few inches and examine any connectors.
Unfortunately, another possibility is in the wiring running under the floor from the distribution box to the kitchen area and covered by the, er, "underneath-the-trailer corrugated plastic cover stuff." I have found several problems in my own trailer in that wiring.
As with all problems electrical, there are other possibilities as well, but, based on your description, I would bet that you have an open connection somewhere. If that is what it is, I hope you find it in a place that is easy to find and get to.
Incidentally, I have gone through my own trailer and replaced as many wire-nutted connections as I could find with crimped connections.

 

[Bob&Patty]

If your kitchen is in a slide. Look under the slide for a "J" box on the frame. You might find a loose wire in there. You have to think out of the box on trailer wiring, cause they aint like a car or house. You either have to get a volt/ohm meter or a 12V test lite. You have to start at the things that are not working or at the 12V source/fuse panel and work your way either way. I have always started at the source and worked my way to the end. You might remove the fuse panel and see if any wires have come loose there. Either power in or power out. A loose wire will not make the red LED come on at the fuse panel.

You could have a ground wire that has come loose that feeds all those things. The easy way to find out is, take your test lite and hook it to each wire at a switch or lamp. If it lites...you have power and ground. If not, then have to find out which one you have lost. Taint easy sometimes......good luck.

 

[danemayer]

I checked all circuit breakers and fuses.

If you're checking fuses by looking for an illuminated LED next to the fuse, it will only light if the 1) the fuse is blown, and 2) there's a load on the circuit. If everything is turned off, the LED will stay dark even when the fuse is blown.

Check fuses with an ohmmeter before tearing the coach apart.