Barrington
Member
Thanks John...I'll try this too...
Lippert Electric Stabilizing Jacks
- Thread starter Barrington
- Start date
Barrington
Member
Voila! I have brakes...met the retired mechanic this morning...spend just over an hour looking at everythink from the fuses and wiring all over the truck and trailer...I then point out a ground wire that appeared fine...but was not...he repaired it and the brakes work...all for $20...I am not happy with the brake controller though as it appears to wait too long to apply the brakes as I have to count a few seconds but I have it on the quickest setting...I may change it to a better quality one...and he also took the rubber boot off the motor for the electric stabilizers...loosened the two screws on the cover and as he opened it water came out...so that motor is toast...too bad. Seems wrong to have a 2012 TT with things like that happening...I'll have to call the dealer to see if it's a warranty issue...man...should have opted for the old fashioned ones...just like the awning, I wish I had an old fashioned on...my electric awning does not tilt...it opens very flat and water pools on one side and then dumps...not good...Anyway...over and out...thanks for the suggestions and help...happy camping...Regards
Chuck
Chuck
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Water in the stabilizer motor is a very common problem, unfortunately. On mine, it caused the springs for the brushes to corrode. I used pieces of a ballpoint pen spring to replace them, wrapped the "seal" with Rescue tape and it's been working fine for almost three years since. Good luck with a warranty claim.
danemayer
Well-known member
My stabilizer motor quit at the end of August this year on its 3 year anniversary. I took it apart in September, cleaned up some corrosion and it was working. But then quit again a few days later.
Took a closer look this morning and found that one of the brush springs was corroded and broken. That brush was no longer making contact with the armature. Sacrificed a ball point pen to get a spring. Cut it in two and replaced both sides.
The tricky part was getting the armature out of the gearbox so I could get to the brushes and springs. Ended up sitting the housing on a couple of 2x4s and tapping the end of the shaft that comes through into the gearbox. Used a bolt against the shaft to keep from damaging it. Did the same thing in reverse to reassemble. (Sorry Erika - didn't bring a photographer along).
The only complication was that I didn't pay close enough attention to the incoming wires. I thought I had them in the same orientation, but turned out to be reversed. Rather than take it all apart again, I reversed the wiring outside the motor.
Shout out to John for sharing his fix. Saved me buying a very expensive new motor/gearbox assembly.
.My issue..Cyclone has been in storage since end of May...on Dec 26 went to pull it our for a short trip. The rear electric screw drive stabilizer jack would not retract. The motor would run for a few seconds then stop. The motor would not work at all on extend. Wait a few seconds and the retract motor when activated would work again for a few seconds, BUT, no retraction. The screw does not move but the main shaft out of the motor does turn..SO..any ideas?
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi ggouge,
If the worm gear or scissor jacks are binding, the motor may do what you're describing. The mechanism may need lubrication.
Also, if the power comes through one of the 12V automotive style circuit breakers located near the battery, it may be tripping. When that happens, it'll auto reset after a few seconds. If your battery voltage is low, or you have a loose wire, the circuit breaker may trip. Sometimes the circuit breakers get tired and just trip occasionally. The motor may be powered through a 30amp auto-reset breaker on the buss bar near the battery.
If you have corrosion inside the motor, as I did, the brush spring(s) may be falling apart, causing intermittent operation (see post #24 in this thread).
