N Scale Model Railroad Build

[pmmjarrett]

Time to get a little track down inside the lower tunnel.

My hired help wasn't so helpful today. These two are twin sisters, same chocolate Lab mother, same litter, different fathers and have never been separated since birth. They were the only females and the runts of the litter, now the black one is 80 lbs and the gold one is 60 lbs, all the males in the litter looked like the black and tan.

Layout the track template that was saved. Now you will need to make a few cuts to get it in place.

Trim the paper for the lower tunnel section so you can trace it on the plaster cloth covered risers.

Trace the centerline of the track plan on the risers and remove the template. Save it once again because you still need it to finish up.

Apply glue to the risers and back of the roadbed and pin it in place. I used the woodland scenics foam glue that came with the kit. All it is is white glue like elmers glue you give your kids.

I split the roadbed down the center. The woodland scenics roadbed is already partially cut so all you have to do is rip it in half. Makes it easier to apply and easier to keep centered on the track plan.

Once the glue is dry you can install the track. Apply the glue to the roadbed and pin the track down. I'm usinf flex track so I soldered 2 sections together before I place it on the roadbed.

I installed enough track to go just beyond where the next sections are fit which is also a few inches outside of the tunnel area. I will cut this when I am ready to install the next sections.

Once the glue is dry you can ballast the track. Start just before the tunnel openings and ballast 3" - 6" inside the tunnel portal. You don't need to ballast this whole section is it's hidden. Don't forget to clean any glue from the top of the rails and ballast from the insides of the rails and check the full length of the rails with the track gauge. I also test run a car over the section.

 

[ChopperBill]

PM, I thought you said to put a sheet of foam over the door because it makes funny noises. I dont see that you did that. Does the foam track risers work in place of the sheet of foam?

 

[pmmjarrett]

You need to put the foam down if you are building just a basicly flat layout. It's easy to build mountains or rolling hills on a flat layout but hard to add feature like a gorge or river that is lower than ground level. Can't do that without a saw unless you have several inches of foam to be able to carve into. In colder climate area you can probably find foam insulation sheets up to 2" thick or more at the hardware store. In warmer climates like I live in it's impossible to find foam thicker than 3/4" and the look at you like your stupid if you ask for something thicker because they never seen it and don't know it exists. The benefit of a flat layout on a sheet of foam is it's much cheaper, easier and faster to build.

The foam risers I'm using here for elevated trackwork and scenery are fine for dampening the noise. I need the extra height to put in the river and it's easier to elevate the track on foam risers than it is to cut into a door or plywood for terrain features that are below ground level. Most ground isn't perfectly flat either so this gives me a more realistic ground profile when done.

Just have to have something thicker than just roadbed alone between the track and the door.

 

[pmmjarrett]

Foam for the overpass section is done. This overpass is much longer and at a different angle than the Scenic Ridge original track plan so it needs a bit more support.

Installed a few pillars made from the 2" risers.

Temporarily installed 2 sections of the profile boards in the corner.

Made and installed the overpass from two 1/2" sections of foam board. The foam I used was the base boards for the Scenic Ridge kit that I am not using. Laminate the 2 pieces together with white glue and put a little white glue on top of the pillars. Do not glue to the profile boards. NOTE: My upper level of track is 1" taller than the original plans was as I added a section of 4% grade starters pieces on each of the inclines. which is why I can use 1 inch of foam here and have 1/4" more clearance than the factory plan.

Go ahead and remove the profile boards.

You have plenty of room to be able to recover a wreck in the tunnels. I am leaving the overpass all the way to the edge of the profile boards, if there is a wreck it stays there instead of falling 2" to the track below.

Check your clearance with the tallest rolling stock you run. Double stack cars with containers are some of the tallest.

 

[pmmjarrett]

Got a little done in between naps, movies and a few old episodes of American Chopper.

Installed and ballasted the track for the upper tunnel section.

Thrimmed the risers in a few locations to match the track plan.

Installed a couple of the profile boards.

 

[2psnapod2]

PM, the project is coming along very nicely. It is something that I hope someday to see at a rally. It is more of a hobby than I would ever take up. Also no place planned to store something like that in the new 5ver. You are doing a great job showing us how you are doing it. Thanks for the lessons.

 

[pmmjarrett]

PM, the project is coming along very nicely. It is something that I hope someday to see at a rally. It is more of a hobby than I would ever take up. Also no place planned to store something like that in the new 5ver. You are doing a great job showing us how you are doing it. Thanks for the lessons.

Thank you, and you are welcome.

You have plenty of room in the 5vr. Just do Z scale in a briefcase ..... Or if you spend $1000 - $6000 for one of these briefcase layouts, ya better hide it well from Mama because I don't wanna be responsible for the beating to come when she finds out.

Could do a nice small coffee table with a glass top for the coach in Z scale too. Might even be able to fit one beteen the recliners. That I'd like to see somebody do.

All I can promise right now is to keep plugging away at this thing as best I can. Beyond that.........

 

[TravelTiger]

Loving it! I look forward to the pics and descriptions each evening. Keep it up! Thanks for sharing!

 

[skyguy]

Just curious pm, are you going DCC or analog? Why?

Thanks for the daily updates!

Al S.

 

[pmmjarrett]

Just curious pm, are you going DCC or analog? Why?

Thanks for the daily updates!

Al S.

Analog for now with an inexpensive MRC 1370 power pack. Chose the 1370 over the 1300 because it has accessory AC hookups, the 1300 doesn't.

I really like DCC but have no need for DCC now.

1. Track is a simple loop, no reversing sections and nothing is isolated, wouldn't be hard to isolate the passing siding/interchange or the 2 industrial spurs if needed.
2. Only two locomotives currently in the roster that will be pretty much married to each other as a consist.
3. Neither loco is DCC equipped
4. Only one of the locos is DCC ready, the Heritage model SD75m is not DCC ready without modification, it's a different run from the later SD75i War Bonnet.
5. If I want to run a sound equipped loco I can just add the MRC black box.
6. All my turnouts are controlled with ground throws.
7. Once I turn the trains on I just let them go, I don't sit there and "play" with them. I'm not into the operations, I'd rather watch them go.
8. I don't like diesel sounds other than the horn or bell, diesel electric loco engine sound is just annoying after a minute... Yea I already tried that when I modeled HO for a bit with a BLI SD40-2 and it drove me insane. Now I can listen to the chuff of a steam loco all day.

Now if I wanted to run 2 trains at the same time in opposite directions, DCC is the only way to go without wiring eveything in separate blocks.

 

[pmmjarrett]

I finished cleaning and testing the tracks that will be hidden in the tunnels.

To clean ballast from the inside of the rails use the back side of a hobby knife to scrape the inside of the rails. DON'T use the knife edge, it will cut the molded spike heads that actually hold the rails to the ties.

To clean the top of the rail I lightly rub the edge of a hobby knife along it to remove any glue residue that didn't come off by wiping it down with a dry paper towel after ballasting the track. NOTE: you don't want to scratch the rail. Scratches attract dirt and dust.

Once you think you are done, grab the Kirby and vacuum the tracks to pick up any loose material. Then test an inexpensive freight car along the tracks, If it's still a go, now you can put your expensive prized loco on the track for final testing.

I highly recommend you test the tracks by running a locomotive at slow speed, you could do it with a continuity meter but if you miss a spot, the locos will run jerky or stall. If you can operate a single loco smoothly at slow speed, you won't have a problem once you bury the rail in the tunnels. If a single loco will opperate smoothly a double or triple header will run like warm butter.

Me I also test at all kinds of speed from super slow to high speed.

Rail test videos. I'm a terrible photographer

 

[pmmjarrett]

Went ahead and made some rock face castings in rubber molds with of Woodland Scenics Hydrocal. These will take a few days to completely cure so you need to do this ahead of time a bit. Pre wet the inside of the molds with a little "wet water" (cup of water with a couple drops of dish washing liquid) before pouring in the hydrocal so you don't end up with air pockets.

Molds

Rocks. These look really nice when painted.

Satisfied with my earlier track test results it's time to bury the tunnel tracks under a mountain of foam, newspaper wads and plaster cloth.

Trace the portal pattern on some 1/2" foam, cut out and install the backing for the tunnel portals.

Check clearances with tallest and longest freight cars. I had to raise mine a bit to keep them fairly centered on the curves at the front of the layout.

Time to start building the tunnel sides from 1/4" foam sheet.

This front section of the tunnels is going to be a great place for some rock face and retaining walls.

 

[jbeletti]

Looking great Mike. What a nice winter project Thanks for sharing.

Jim

 

[pmmjarrett]

Thanks Jim, Think you can hook me up with a 1:160 scale Bighorn Ti

 

[pmmjarrett]

Had some problems with the DSL in my area last night so here's yesterdays progress.

The front half of the tunnel section foam work is done. Trying to finish up the back half today so I can get the profile boards on and start putting down some plaster cloth.


Paint the inside of the tunnels flat black. You want to paint at least 6" inside the tunnels, you don't have to paint the whole inside of the tunnel. I was getting a little carried awaypainting the whole inside on the upper section when I realized I forgot to paint the lower section before capping it. That's OK, I still got the 1st 6" painted.

Starting to look like something now.

 

[pmmjarrett]

The tunnels are completely enclosed and the profile boards are installed on the back of the layout. The only foam work left to do is to finish installing and shape the profile boards and add some flat areas for buildings and roads.

Need to remember to get a few Sunday papers for paper wadding to shape the scenery and some masking tape tomorrow too.


Cut access holes on the profile boards to be able to clean track or remove a train wreck. These holes can be covered with a door made of cloth, foam or whatever to block light and stop a derailed train from falling to the floor. if anything does come near the holes.

I put a little black around the mouth of the tunnels to hide any white that might show through once the portals are glued in place.

 

[ChopperBill]

Looking Good! I went to the local model RR exhibit yesterday for the first time. Didnt know what to expect. WOW! It knocked my socks off!. Here is the link to there web site.There's is HO and even has some trucks running on a dirt road. After looking at the detail of this HO exhibit I am not sure my fat ole hands could work with N scale. Got a lot of good ideas of what it take to make an awesome layout.

 

[pmmjarrett]

Thanks for the link. That is a beautiful layout. Lots of good ideas. I like the workers pouring concrete and the forest fire scenes. Can you volunteer to help out there, that'ld be a great way to learn a few things.

With N scale a magnifying glass is your best friend when doing detail work or even putting the wheels on the tracks. I have a 3.2X magnifying lens that clips to my ball cap and a pair of tiny tweezers with a magnifying lens built in. Think small with your tools like pliers and screwdrivers too.



Profile boards are finished and carved into shape.

Make some flat areas for the buildings and roads.

Start placing the newspaper wads to build up the terrain. You can hold them in place with a little masking tape. Use just enough tape to hold them in place where needed and shape it to the paper wads..... DON'T make a net with the tape, it will show the criss cross tape pattern through the plaster cloth if you do and not be very realistic scenery...... Take that from my past experience.

 

[skyguy]

Mike - before you go too much further, could you possibly attach a photo taken towards to back left corner, the corner with the tunnels and mountain to come, and include a ruler or tape measure, or something of known scale? I'd like to get an idea of the height of the track off the table. What is the max (or most common) % grade of your track lines?

 

[pmmjarrett]

I have made no progress at all today on the layout. Spent the entire day at my doctors office, my rhumatologist, getting blood drawn at the labs, more xrays and the pharmacy, 5 hrs of sitting around waiting for an hours worth of work. No biggie, just trying to get a better grip on my RA right now as it's been flaring up bad this last month.

Mike - before you go too much further, could you possibly attach a photo taken towards to back left corner, the corner with the tunnels and mountain to come, and include a ruler or tape measure, or something of known scale? I'd like to get an idea of the height of the track off the table. What is the max (or most common) % grade of your track lines?

Great question, no problem, here ya go. Anyone with questions like this, fire away.

The ground level track is on 2" risers with the top of the rail about 2-3/16" above the door. One inch in N scale is about 13.3 scale feet so a 2" riser gives you 26 scale feet to play with below track level, 8" would give you just over 100 scale feet. 2" is Plenty for ditches, culverts, rivers, ponds and lakes.

The upper level track is on 5" risers with the top of the rail at about 5-3/16" above the door.

From the foam riser to the top of a double stack car with 2 sea containers is 1-3/4"... Like I have mentioned earlier, any overpass clearance has to clear your tallest cars like double stacks, domed passenger cars, bi level commuter cars etc..... Pretty much if you have a minimum of 2" clearance you will be fine with anything. The Scenic Ridge original plan has you at 1-3/4" clearance but the kit also has instructions to modify it to 2" with a couple 2% incline starters that you would need to purchase separately.

The grades on this layout are all 4% (1" rise in 24") I had to run 6' of 4% rise to get to 3" above the lower tracks on this track plan. You really don't want grades steeper than this. Less is better if your layout can accomodate it.

Now wherever you place a turnout you need that area at the same grade as the tracks entering and exiting the turnout. Don't change the grade close to the turnouts or you're asking for trouble. For industrial spurs, you want those tracks level or cars won't stay where you put them without something holding them in place. Me, I only lay turnouts on flat level areas with at least 6" of level track entering and exiting them.








For anyone considering stretching the Woodland Scenics Scenic Ridge layout kit like I did and getting a little more elevation to the upper level section than the 4" upper level track that the original kit goes too, here are the extra foam parts I had to purchase outside of what comes in the kit.

• 1 package of 1" risers #ST1407
• 1 package of profile boards #St1419
• 1 package of 4% grade starters #ST1413

I'll eventually need more white glue (Foam tack glue), another roll of plaster cloth and more fine grey ballast. I have plenty of turf, clump foliage, talus and other scenery materials left over from past projects.

And for those that want it here's the Atlas RTS 10.0 software track plans you can play with. One plan is code 55 flex track and the other is Code 55 sectional track. The entire plan is flat 0" elevation, I didn't take the time to do the grades in the plans.
View attachment Code 55 sectional Scenic ridge.zip
View attachment Code 55 Scenic ridge Door mod.zip