New cyclone 4100 King

[porthole]

Re: Cyclone Warranty (yes or no)?

I gave you something to think about in the other thread. And I think you may have misinterpreted Dan's comments on the fridge. Yes they are expensive and they can go bad. Many of us refer to our rigs as rolling earthquakes.

It is a gamble you have to be comfortable with. But since you didn't buy it yet, contact Good Sam and check their program. At least the support is nationwide. i don't know how good it is and personally would not buy one.

 

[remoandiris]

Re: Cyclone Warranty (yes or no)?

I would assume that since RV's are made for traveling, that I can use it at any authorized Heartland dealer? It doesn't have specifically be a Cyclone dealer correct, just Heartland?

They might be selling you an INSURANCE policy as opposed to a warranty. That is what I bought. In Florida they fall under the state insurance commissioner. Since it is not a factory extended warranty, any dealer (Heartland or independent) is free to accept or reject doing the repairs.

 

[danemayer]

Wow, do the refrigerators really break that often enough to justify a warranty? And at that price, that's ridiculous.

Since we don't know the failure rate, it's hard to judge how much risk you have that the fridge will fail. Anecdotally, I would say from forum posts over the past 3 years or so that the failure rate is low.

In general, you can assess risk by summing the cost of each possible risk event:

If you assume the failure rate on refrigerators over the period of coverage is 10%, and cost of repair is $3000, the cost of the risk event would be $300. Air conditioner replacements (with labor) are probably around $1000. If you assume 10% failure rate, that's another $100 for each A/C unit. Furnace, Water Heater, Microwave, TV, Sound System, Fireplace might all add up to another $500 of risk events, getting to $1000.

Not hard to see that for the items covered by most policies, assuming a 10% failure rate over 6 years, it would be hard to get to $2200 of risk events.

The other consideration is the worst case catastrophic failure. If that's the fridge at $3000 and you have a $250 deductible, in essence you're paying $2200 + $250 = $2550 up front to protect against a possible $3000 repair cost.

 

[porthole]

Re: Cyclone Warranty (yes or no)?

I would assume that since RV's are made for traveling, that I can use it at any authorized Heartland dealer? It doesn't have specifically be a Cyclone dealer correct, just Heartland?

Heartland does not offer a service contract.
So whatever it is they are offering it could be something nationwide that they are offering or more then likely a small "unknown" "warranty" company.
Or, as many automotive dealers in the days before the big three offered service contracts was to offer their own in house policies. They are the worst.

They might be selling you an INSURANCE policy as opposed to a warranty. That is what I bought. In Florida they fall under the state insurance commissioner. Since it is not a factory extended warranty, any dealer (Heartland or independent) is free to accept or reject doing the repairs.

Read the fine print, there are very few extended warranties, for the most part the terminology is generic. What is offered are service contracts. A contract between you and the provider on what they will cover and and how it will be processed.

There are so many little variables to think about.

For example, if your Dodge Ram 3500 blows a head gasket and you are out of warranty but have a Chrysler service contract that covers the repair, the repair will also include all the necessary items to complete the repair, which in a head gasket case, includes replacing the antifreeze and changing the oil and filter. Along with anything that may have broke along the way, for instance an exhaust stud.

Aftermarket policies, once approved, may very well not cover the consumables such as the now contaminated oil and missing antifreeze.

 

[danemayer]

Re: Cyclone Warranty (yes or no)?

I would assume that since RV's are made for traveling, that I can use it at any authorized Heartland dealer? It doesn't have specifically be a Cyclone dealer correct, just Heartland?

You're making a very bad assumption. Heartland is not issuing the service contract and has nothing to do with it. The service contract issuer determines where you can use it and what hoops you may have to jump through to get a repair authorized for reimbursement.

You have to read the contract before buying.

I've merged the 2 threads on this discussion so all answers are in one place.

 

[cookie]

When we bought our first rig, an extended warranty was offered by Dometic or the refrigerator and AC units.
These were only a couple hundred bucks and transferable if I bought a different rig. Which we did.
I would prefer the extended warranty come from the manufacturer and not a third party.
Just another option to think about.

Peace
Dave

 

[wdk450]

Re: Cyclone Warranty (yes or no)?

One good argument for sequestering an amount of cash equal to the "extended warranty" premium is the list of RV systems/devices/situations excluded from most of these contracts. If you have frame problems, suspension problems, or electrical damage consequential to poor park power you would have your own money to pay for repair of these items that the warranty contract may exclude.

 

[choprpilot76]

Re: Cyclone Warranty (yes or no)?

You're making a very bad assumption. Heartland is not issuing the service contract and has nothing to do with it. The service contract issuer determines where you can use it and what hoops you may have to jump through to get a repair authorized for reimbursement.

You have to read the contract before buying.

I've merged the 2 threads on this discussion so all answers are in one place.

Thanks Danemayer. That is why I am picking all your brains on here, because without the experience you all have, all I can do for now is assume things. I have no doubt that over time I will learn a lot of things for my self through trial and error and getting some "road time" under my belt, but I have spent the last 20 years in a career where you can learn a lot from other people mistakes and experiences, and I have learned to value them and contribute them myself. Thanks for all the help, all of you. Keep it coming.

 

[choprpilot76]

Re: Cyclone Warranty (yes or no)?

Well I picked up our Cyclone this past weekend from Holman Motors in Ohio. I did the walk-through Monday morning, but due to that snow that went through, we couldn't leave until Tuesday morning. I got back into southern Louisiana Wednesday after lunch. Wow, what a new experience. After I got out of the city and traffic and on the open road, I really started getting used to it. I had to go through four main cities, a couple with major construction and very narrow lanes, which increased my pucker factor a bit. But, for the most part I adapted pretty well. I really need some practice maneuvering and backing this big behemoth up, but hopefully that will come with time, it's just so DARN BIG, lol. What a first RV to get, go big or go home I guess huh, lol. Anyway, I have questions that keep popping up, so I may be popping on here a lot more to grab from you alls experience. I am absolutely LOVING this thing so far though. I have to wash it tomorrow to get all that corrosive road salt off of it. The first thing I can think of is the all the outside locks, such as the slam latches. I am assuming all that wet road salt residue is causing it, but my keys are a serious pain in the butt to get in the key hole and turn. What do you use that is safe to loosen and lubricate those up with? All through the walk-through they kept telling me not to use WD-40 on pretty much everything on it. But I would assume it would not hurt on something like this. Also, what do you all do with decor items while in transit, such as shelve items, nick knacks and pictures? Do you velcro or stick things down with double sided 3M tape, or just put them in a drawer every time you move it, and then set-p again when you get to your destination? Lastly, for now anyways, what is a good in-line water filter that last awhile? I have read some cost to much for the length of use you get out of them. I am looking for something that is good for drinking, but economical to sustain. Anyway, hope to see some of you out on the open road and at the camp sites. We're already planning a great trip this summer.

 

[jassson007]

As far as water filters I use a whole house setup from Rv water filter store (www.rvwaterfilterstore.com) that consists of a 1micron sediment filter then a carbon filter on second cartridge. This should catch most anything you don't won't to drink or taste.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jassson007]

Btw we will be at a Toledo bend sp the wed after Easter through the weekend if y'all can break away come join us.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[remoandiris]

Re: Cyclone Warranty (yes or no)?

I use Camco water filters available in the RV section at Wal-Mart.

Any decor item you want to keep in good shape needs to be secured prior to pulling out. If you don't, not only could the item be broken, but it could damage something in the coach; scratched floors, scratched walls, etc.

I always close/lock the sliding glass door, too.

 

[choprpilot76]

Re: Cyclone Warranty (yes or no)?

Ok, I washed the whole 5th Wheel today, took 3.5 hours, lol. I had to get all that corroding road salt off of it from the drive down from Ohio. Ok, I need some help please to confirm a couple of things. First, in the picture of the back of the water heater, after de-winterizing the unit, I turn all three of those knobs circled in yellow in the opposite direction that they currently are? Correct? Lastly, the hard wired surge protector, which I am still leery of doing. Can you confirm that the one picture of the transfer switch is the "output" side with one feed coming out, and the other side is the "input" with two lines going in? Then, the picture with the multiple colored circles is where I really need the advice. I was thinking of cutting the cord, if it's the correct spot, where the blue circle is, and then mounting the surge protector where the first choice is. My only concern with the first choice is the water lines running along the same surface board. Otherwise, I could try mounting at "choice 2" on the post. BTW, the surge protector that I think I am going to order is the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C. I also ran the generator for 5 hours today, is it normal for it to smell like something is burning when it is new and breaking in? Because it smelled bad. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[cookie]

Re: Cyclone Warranty (yes or no)?

You are correct about the by pass valves.
I can't help you with the electrical input/output, but all you will have to do is trace the cable from the breaker panel back to the transfer switch.
In pic #4 you indicate cut. I recommend not cutting the cable but rather purchasing a few extra feet.
Disconnect the current wires from the breaker panel.
Connect those wires to the input side of the EMS.
Then using the extra cable that you bought run that from the out side of the EMS to the breaker panel.
Where you mount the EMS is personal choice. But I like option #2. Less chance of water intrusion. Mine is mounted in option #1.

Peace
Dave

 

[danemayer]

The picture of the bypass valves shows them in bypass mode. You may want to take a look at our owner-written user guides, particularly the one on Water Systems.

The transfer switch has the two inputs on one end and the single output on the other end. The shore power input should be in a straight line across to the output line. If you remove the cover, there's a wiring diagram that clearly identifies which is which.

I agree with Cookie that you don't want to cut wires. And make very sure all the connections are tight when done.

 

[choprpilot76]

I will use that advice and not cut the wire. I will swing by Lowes tomorrow and see if they have that in-store. Thanks guys.

 

[scottyb]

choprpilot76, here's what I did and in accordance with the owner's manual for installation after the transfer switch. I left the jumper wire long and made a big loop with it in case I decide later to mount is somewhere different, but YMMV.

1) Disconnect output wiring from transfer switch and connect it to the output side of the EMS. Make sure the current sensor with the green tape goes on the black wire, the other on the red, and pay attention the the direction of the arrows on the sensors.
2) Add new wire from output side of transfer switch to input side of EMS.

 

[choprpilot76]

choprpilot76, here's what I did and in accordance with the owner's manual for installation after the transfer switch. I left the jumper wire long and made a big loop with it in case I decide later to mount is somewhere different, but YMMV.

1) Disconnect output wiring from transfer switch and connect it to the output side of the EMS. Make sure the current sensor with the green tape goes on the black wire, the other on the red, and pay attention the the direction of the arrows on the sensors.
2) Add new wire from output side of transfer switch to input side of EMS.

That's exactly what I was planning on doing. I just might need to construct a nice little mounting station out of wood for the actual EMS. For clarification, what is the "jumper wire"? Once I open the Transfer Switch I am sure I will see what you're referencing about the sensor with the green tape.

 

[scottyb]

Sorry, it is just the new wire that you need to go from the ATS to the EMS.

 

[choprpilot76]

Here are the pics Scott. I am guess the far left is Master Bath Black tank, middle is Master Bath Grey, and the right is kitchen grey. The valves just go in and out right, no twisting or locking?