Progressive EMS

[olcoon]

Finally got the Progressive EMS-HW50 with remote display delivered last week, and had/took time to install it today. I'm no electrician by any means. After reading the manual several times, going over the posts on here about installing it, and talking to happykraut, who recently put one in his new Big Horn, I got brave enough to tackle it. It was as straight forward as it appeared to be. The only problem was the super stiff wiring Heartland uses. The amazing thing is when I plugged it in....IT WORKED! Now I've got to get it mounted, and get everything put back together. My main dilemma is where to mount it. Behind the breaker box is a box like area and 3 of the walls are just thin paneling, including the ceiling area. I really don't want to mount it on the floor, as there is a water line going through there. So if I mount it in that area, the only choice I've got is on the outside wall, which appears to be solid. I'm not sure about mounting it there because I don't want the screws to go clear through the wall to the outside. I'm thinking with using short screws there shouldn't be a problem, as I'm thinking that that wall is at least 1/2" thick, but it's hard to tell. A couple of benefits of doing this is that we had an annoying squeak in the top step going into the bedroom & I got that fixed, and I put a couple of wood strips under the converter to get it off the floor.

 

[happykraut]

Roy, as we discussed on the phone, I would just put a 2x8 (or a double layer) on the floor and set the EMS on top of it. On the BC I mounted the remote on the carpeted steps. A little inconvenient when reading it, but leaves no holes when you pull it out to put in your next rig.

 

[Garypowell]

I agree with Bernie that putting the unit on the floor raised up a bit would be OK. I have never had a leak in my basement but I can't imagine it would get too deep in there with the holes in the floor. I would put something over it to prevent a direct spray.

And you want it to be easy to get to....they do break.

 

[JohnDar]

Depending on the layout of your rig, the side frame of the steps right behind the basement wall is a good spot to mount the suppressor and converter. Gets them off the floor, out from under most plumbing, and accessible. Could be important if you need to service them.

 

[TravelTiger]

We don't have the hard-wired version, but i know what Roy's talking about...that area is pretty tight for us ElkRidge owners, as we don't have the drop-frame.

Take pics when you do decide where to put it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sjs731]

Depending on the layout of your rig, the side frame of the steps right behind the basement wall is a good spot to mount the suppressor and converter. Gets them off the floor, out from under most plumbing, and accessible. Could be important if you need to service them.

X2. To go along with this I also built a nice big access door to make servicing the EMS a breeze if need be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve and Carrie
HOC# 2252
2007 GMC 2500HD Duramax
B&W Companion Hitch
2012 Sundance 3300CK

 

[olcoon]

I snaked the cable for the remote from the EMS through the cabinets to the compartment that has the monitors for the tanks, etc. Used double sided tape to mount it. Instead of drilling a hole, just took out the switch for the slides, & ran the cable through that hole, & screwed the switch back in. I'll look some more, don't really want to mount it on the outside wall. There isn't enough room to mount it on the step.

 

[olcoon]

Well, I finally got everything done plus some things I'd been wanting to do, but had been putting off. Had the power on all night last night & the 5er was still standing this morning, no smoke or ashes! I used wood strips under the converter & EMS to get them off the floor. Didn't want to use a board to avoid a large area where the water could get to in case of a leak. Also zip tied the seat from an old camp chair to cover the water lines in case one of them, or the connections failed, to keep water from
spraying on the converter or EMS. Here are some photos.

 

[happykraut]

I'm proud of you, Roy. I knew you could do it. Looks good.

 

[scottyb]

I started to mount my remote monitor inside the trailer but instead, I temporarily mounted it near the UDC. I have decided that I like it there because when I turn on the power at the pedestal, I can immediately see what's going on, as it scrolls through it's diagnostics. I found a bad pedestal that I was connected to like that. Maybe the optional 2nd monitor would be nice to have inside.

 

[jimpav]

Nice job Roy. If you look at my profile pictures, you can see my installation of the same unit. There isn't too much fudge room in the box to connect all the wires, and especially the two pick-up rings for the monitor. I mounted my remote monitor in the coat closet where it's out of site, but accessible. Keep in mind that if you ever hook up a generator to your trailer, you must turn the EMS off by the switch on the remote indicator otherwise you will be wondering for hours (like I did) why there isn't any power. The reason, as I recall, is that due to the open ground, or lack of on the generator, the EMS will not allow electric to pass. I believe that if you ground your generator by using a copper rod etc, it will then work, but that's impractical. I don't recall if that is mentioned in the instructions or not.
Nonetheless, an EMS device should be STANDARD on ALL trailers. I've discussed this with the brand manager as was told that it's a "pricing" issue. How much stuff do you want to pack onto the MSRP. I don't care, it's worth it to me after reading and hearing horror stories of low voltage and spikes at older campgrounds. Good choice!!!!!

 

[sjs731]

Keep in mind that if you ever hook up a generator to your trailer, you must turn the EMS off by the switch on the remote indicator otherwise you will be wondering for hours (like I did) why there isn't any power. The reason, as I recall, is that due to the open ground, or lack of on the generator, the EMS will not allow electric to pass. I believe that if you ground your generator by using a copper rod etc, it will then work, but that's impractical. I don't recall if that is mentioned in the instructions or not.

jimpav,
The people at Progressive gave me a way to fool the EMS. I took a male extension cord replacement end and ran a jumper wire from the ground to the neutral in the plug. Then you plug it into the 110v outlet on the generator and the EMS thinks the ground is closed or you can turn the switch on the display off which is what I have been doing if I run the AC.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve and Carrie
HOC# 2252
2007 GMC 2500HD Duramax
B&W Companion Hitch
2012 Sundance 3300CK

 

[porthole]

Scott you can get a second display. I use two, one by the UDC and one in the LR.

 

[JohnDar]

Scott you can get a second display. I use two, one by the UDC and one in the LR.

Duane, before I run out and spend my not-so-hard-earned pension on a second display for my unit, convince me of the value of it. The current display is in my glass front switch cabinet at the door, which I can see from outside. Seems the suppressor is going to do what it's got to do, regardless of how fast I get to the display to view it. I'm asking your expert opinion because I just had my finger on the CC trigger to get the second display when a little voice (one of many) asked "Why?".

 

[porthole]

John, the real value is realized if you do it all at once. I don't know if I would go through the trouble to add it "post installation".

If I was to install it in a new rig though, I would order the kit with the 2 displays. I don't think I really "need" it, but since I have it I do take advantage of both locations.

 

[JohnDar]

John, the real value is realized if you do it all at once. I don't know if I would go through the trouble to add it "post installation".

If I was to install it in a new rig though, I would order the kit with the 2 displays. I don't think I really "need" if, but since I have it I do take advantage of both locations.

Thanks for the info, Duane. Sometimes I need to control my "got cash, gotta mod" impulses.

 

[choprpilot76]

Does anyone have some pics of one installed on a newer model Cyclone, I am curious about locations an what not? I am debating wether or not to tackle this project myself or have it done. I haven't gotten a labor cost quote yet, do any of you know what this would cost (labor/install), roughly?

 

[happykraut]

Does anyone have some pics of one installed on a newer model Cyclone, I am curious about locations an what not? I am debating wether or not to tackle this project myself or have it done. I haven't gotten a labor cost quote yet, do any of you know what this would cost (labor/install), roughly?

$336.56 is the cost, no idea on the labor charge. http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-I...sr=8-15&keywords=progressive+power+management

 

[danemayer]

I haven't had it done, but I've worked on stuff in the same area and wouldn't be surprised if installation in the basement with monitor inside the control panel was quoted at 3 - 4 hours of labor.

 

[boatto5er]

I was able to install mine right behind the breaker panel by removing the panel and the fire extinguisher holder. There was enough loose cable to move the breaker box out of the and mount the EMS I'm the open area behind it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk