Pulling mountains

[dave10a]

When pulling a longup-hill grade in the mountains, I find keep the RPM steady at 2500 in what ever gear that will maintain the RPM usually 4[SUP]th[/SUP] gearand sometime 3 rd on really steep grades. This prevent lugging the engine with sufficient coolant flow to cool the engine and transmission. There is no need to be in a hurry and that is the bestway to have a long life for your engine and transmission. Using this technique my engine oil never goes above 210 deg and the transmission oil remains below 210 deg as well (both the engine and transtemperature gages stay mid range as well). Oil will breaks down attemperatures created if one runs at full power or lugs the engine for any length of time when pulling heavy loads uphill.

 

[Lynn1130]

Modern day engine computers will not let the engine "lag". They will cause the transmission to shift at correct rpm to prevent that from happening.

If you are running synthetic oil it is pretty hard to get an engine to the point that oil "breaks down". Even dyno oil would have to get really hot to break down and by that time you have melted your pistons. (flash points for synthetic are in the mid 400 degrees F)

If that system works for you that is good and you are certainly not going to punish the vehicle but today's engines are pretty hardy.

 

[alexb2000]

I just pulled La Veta pass at 70+MPH, oil temps were around 260. I use Rotella T6 and I'm happy with that number on synthetic.

 

[dave10a]

I just pulled La Veta pass at 70+MPH, oil temps were around 260. I use Rotella T6 and I'm happy with that number on synthetic.

I use Rotella T6 as well, but don't forget that the published temp characteristics is for fresh oil and not oil that has a couple of thousand miles with a normal amount of soot and other things mixed in it. Everyone is entitled to treat their equipment any way they want to, but for me it treat it with respect and it rarely lets me down. And I am not in a hurry to get anywhere because I am retired.

 

[gregw]

I have always heard that you should let the truck idle for a time to cool off the turbo after a pull. Generally do that with no ill effects. Most of the diesel forums say this.

 

[Lynn1130]

but don't forget that the published temp characteristics is for fresh oil and not oil that has a couple of thousand miles with a normal amount of soot and other things mixed in

It pays, in peace of mind if nothing else, to have your oil tested when you change. You will know where you stand with the miles on that oil. I use Amsoil, and change at 5K intervals. Tests have shown that I would be good for another 10K at least on the old oil. Most synthetics now days are good for extended intervals of at least 10K and if the oil tests ok at that mileage, a filter change and more driving can be done. BUT, I tend not to do that because of the heat and dust here as well as pulling a heavy load. The oil tests good by my mind tells me to be safe.

 

[Capt7383]

Lots of great information, thank you all very much

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[dave10a]

It pays, in peace of mind if nothing else, to have your oil tested when you change. You will know where you stand with the miles on that oil. I use Amsoil, and change at 5K intervals. Tests have shown that I would be good for another 10K at least on the old oil. Most synthetics now days are good for extended intervals of at least 10K and if the oil tests ok at that mileage, a filter change and more driving can be done. BUT, I tend not to do that because of the heat and dust here as well as pulling a heavy load. The oil tests good by my mind tells me to be safe.

That is basically true, but why push everything to the limit and don't forget that transmission oil.... Ford uses synthetic transmission oil which helps, but some don't. I learned how to treat diesel engines from Caterpillar. Keep the RPM over 2K in a gear without the automatic transmission "hunting" (shifting up and down). I put the cruise and transmission control to allow that and sit back and enjoy the mountain view. Both the engine and transmission run cooler which is always good. Some pass me on long grades, but I notice that most of the time they are pulled over at the summit or sooner to cool down. That is not good driving practice IMHO. BTY Caterpillar does not endorse extended oil changes with synthetic oil. However, their C7 engine holds almost twice as much oil as Ford, GM and RAM and they have similar recommendation as Ford, GM and RAM. I go by what truck manufacturers recommends rather than an oil company. Their motives and marketing are different.

 

[avvidclif]

When I got my current trailer I bought the Edge CTS2 to monitor the engine and transmission. I have not been thru the Rockies or any other long climb but have run in 110 deg heat with normal hills and downshifting when needed. I mainly watch the EGT and keep it under 1200 deg. On my TV the factory Trans Temp gauge is worthless according to the CTS. Oil and engine run 195-210 with the oil being abt 10 deg hotter then coolant. The Trans runs abt 180 and I've never seen over 185. When I stop I let it idle until the EGT goes under 400 before shutting it down, usually takes 3-4 min.

I discovered I was driving it wrong for the EGT I wanted. I was letting it work and pull without causing it to downshift and the EGT would get to 1200 deg real quick. I changed the way I drive to apply fuel to cause it to downshift when the EGT gets to abt 1150. It then immediately drops as soon as it downshifts and the RPM's go up. I don't go over 3000 RPM though.

My 2 cents.

 

[alexb2000]

I use Rotella T6 as well, but don't forget that the published temp characteristics is for fresh oil and not oil that has a couple of thousand miles with a normal amount of soot and other things mixed in it. Everyone is entitled to treat their equipment any way they want to, but for me it treat it with respect and it rarely lets me down. And I am not in a hurry to get anywhere because I am retired.

I don't understand part of your post, are you saying that pulling at that speed is not respecting the equipment or the oil? I believe changing the oil every 5-7K with T6 and a factory filter vs. jiffy lube is 100% respecting the equipment. If it was my towing comment, La Veta isn't a bad hill for any modern diesel with the power they are putting out (no hills are anymore), in 5th gear I am about 2100 RPM at 70MPH. Much of it can be done in 6th at 1600. If I had a bigger trailer say 20K lb. range and a dually with a different rear end ratio I would naturally be going slower.

If you look at this info and scroll down to the 2015+ 6.7 the torque curve peaks and flattens from 1600 to just over 2000 the HP curve is about 300-360HP from 2000-2200, so at highway speed this is right in this engines sweet spot IMO.

http://www.powerstrokehub.com/6.7-power-stroke.html

I'm not being defensive just having a good conversation.

 

[dave10a]

I don't understand part of your post, are you saying that pulling at that speed is not respecting the equipment or the oil? I believe changing the oil every 5-7K with T6 and a factory filter vs. jiffy lube is 100% respecting the equipment. If it was my towing comment, La Veta isn't a bad hill for any modern diesel with the power they are putting out (no hills are anymore), in 5th gear I am about 2100 RPM at 70MPH. Much of it can be done in 6th at 1600. If I had a bigger trailer say 20K lb. range and a dually with a different rear end ratio I would naturally be going slower.

If you look at this info and scroll down to the 2015+ 6.7 the torque curve peaks and flattens from 1600 to just over 2000 the HP curve is about 300-360HP from 2000-2200, so at highway speed this is right in this engines sweet spot IMO.

http://www.powerstrokehub.com/6.7-power-stroke.html

I'm not being defensive just having a good conversation.

Didn't mean to start an argument.

 

[alexb2000]

Didn't mean to start an argument.

Dave, I didn't take it that way at all. If you don't want to discuss OK, but ultimately it reduces the value of the forum especially to those that only read.

 

[TravelTiger]

I just hold it to the floor. Modern engine management systems keep things from blowing up any more.

The LLY is 2004-2005... not modern.

We towed our ElkRidge with same truck, weighed about 13,500lbs. We did have issues with rising tranny temps going up/down the mountains on I-70 from Denver. So watch that. Pull over and let it rest if you get any dash warnings. No exhaust brake either, so keep recents slow and don't overheat the brakes. We added Hawk heavy duty brakes (red box) and really liked their stopping power over OEM.




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[Capt7383]

The LLY is 2004-2005... not modern.

We towed our ElkRidge with same truck, weighed about 13,500lbs. We did have issues with rising tranny temps going up/down the mountains on I-70 from Denver. So watch that. Pull over and let it rest if you get any dash warnings. No exhaust brake either, so keep recents slow and don't overheat the brakes. We added Hawk heavy duty brakes (red box) and really liked their stopping power over OEM.




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Thanks

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[MCTalley]

The LLY is 2004-2005... not modern.

We towed our ElkRidge with same truck, weighed about 13,500lbs. We did have issues with rising tranny temps going up/down the mountains on I-70 from Denver. So watch that. Pull over and let it rest if you get any dash warnings. No exhaust brake either, so keep recents slow and don't overheat the brakes. We added Hawk heavy duty brakes (red box) and really liked their stopping power over OEM.

Good points, especially for older trucks. My answer was aimed more at, say, 2008 and up trucks. Our first truck was an '02 Ford and I followed what several others have mentioned about monitoring exhaust temps and pulling over if needed. Guess I've gotten spoiled with the '13 and now '16 trucks. They truly are fairly foolproof if you just let them do their jobs as programmed at the factory.

 

[TravelTiger]

Good points, especially for older trucks. My answer was aimed more at, say, 2008 and up trucks. Our first truck was an '02 Ford and I followed what several others have mentioned about monitoring exhaust temps and pulling over if needed. Guess I've gotten spoiled with the '13 and now '16 trucks. They truly are fairly foolproof if you just let them do their jobs as programmed at the factory.

Malcolm, you are right, our 2013 we now have is much more sophisticated, and thus tows much better. Love that exhaust brake!


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[Capt7383]

Good points, especially for older trucks. My answer was aimed more at, say, 2008 and up trucks. Our first truck was an '02 Ford and I followed what several others have mentioned about monitoring exhaust temps and pulling over if needed. Guess I've gotten spoiled with the '13 and now '16 trucks. They truly are fairly foolproof if you just let them do their jobs as programmed at the factory.

So I assume my 05 will be fine so long as I monitor tranny and engine temps?

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[Capt7383]

Malcolm, you are right, our 2013 we now have is much more sophisticated, and thus tows much better. Love that exhaust brake!


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So I assume my 05 will be fine so long as I monitor tranny and engine temps?

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[TravelTiger]

So I assume my 05 will be fine so long as I monitor tranny and engine temps?

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I cannot tell you you'll be fine, but my experience is that our 2004.5 LLY duramax Dually was rated to pull our rig, which was max GVWR of 14,435 or so. We had a few times, as mentioned, pulling in the summer in the mountains, where we had some warnings that our tranny temp was getting high. Pulled over, let it rest idling for 30 minutes, and continued. I don't want to minimize it as nothing, but we realized that we needed to watch more carefully, and take more rest breaks, to minimize it from happening.

One instance that hurt us was getting stuck behind a semi going about 30 up hill, and not able to get around because other traffic was going 60+.

So it may be fine if the conditions are fine. But how about when they are not? Just be prepared.


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[Lynn1130]

Interesting that tranny temps got warm on the LBZ. My 04 was even less modern with the LB7 but still had the Allison 1000. I never had tranny temps run much over 200 even on long Arizona grades and Tijeras Canyon coming out of Albuquerque is also a good test but at lower outside temps than the Sunset Point climb from Black Canyon City on the way to Flagstaff. One reason might be that I switched to Torque Drive (Amsoil) way back when. I never compared temps but would guess the synthetic made a difference. Personally I think if you had to pull over because the tranny heated up there was something else wrong. Especially with the Allison.

In any event my Edge disagrees with my engine temp but not the transmission in the 14. It shows coolant temps at 185 on flat runs with the trailer and the idiot dial in the truck shows 210. I believe the Edge.

There is nothing wrong with babying an engine but diesels were made to work and hard work does not punish them. So keeping it within it's limits does not hurt a thing and if you look at the tach on whatever engine you have in it, there is an orange and then a red. Red is bad and if you have ever pushed the engine you will notice that it does a fair amount of shifting to keep you out of the red and thus the temps down. Computers! The best thing that ever happened to engines (unless they go out then all he!! breaks loose.

Back when muscle cars were in I used to baby my cars and I had a friend that would build an engine, put it in, put good oil in it and take it out and just run the Pixx out of it. He never had one use oil and never had one go and every one of them would out run anything on the road. I never saw him get beat in a street drag race. So who knows.