RAM 3500 srw enough truck for key largo?

DW_Gray

Well-known member
When considering the tires and wheels are fully capable of carrying the vertical weight, there are only two things that keep this truck in question from towing 30,000 pounds like it's big brother dually, that is the 3.42 axle ratio and the springs. These can be modified to meet the demand. But the question is, is it less expensive to just buy the dully?
 
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Bohemian

Well-known member
When considering the tires and wheels are fully capable of carrying the vertical weight, there are only two things that keep this truck in question from towing 30,000 pounds like it's big brother dully, that is the 3.42 axle ratio and the springs. These can be modified to meet the demand. But the question is, is it less expensive to just buy the dully?


I you look at the Ram capacity tables it is clear that GVWR is determined by the frame. Thus they consider the frame as the weakest link in their trucks.

Ram says and the their tables show that: payload = GVWR - GVW
 

lynndiwagoner

Well-known member
Folks keep talking about stopping their rig. I don't think any of the standard TV's, including DRV's, would do a good job of stopping without proper trailer brakes.
 

DW_Gray

Well-known member
I you look at the Ram capacity tables it is clear that GVWR is determined by the frame. Thus they consider the frame as the weakest link in their trucks.

Ram says and the their tables show that: payload = GVWR - GVW

Disagree. To my knowledge, the frame for the 250/2500 and 350/3500 are the same and there are no significant frame differences between SRW and DRW. Consider reading A Lesson on Gross Combined Weight Rating.

From the 2014 Ram brochure: The 2014 Ram 2500 frame now matches the recently upgraded 3500 frame, using 50 ksi steel—up from 35 ksi, with two new, additional crossmembers contributing to robust towing and hauling.
 

azbigfoot

Well-known member
I tow a 2013 Landmark Rushmore with a 2013 Ram 3500 SRW 4x4. So far it tows fine. I went up and down Wolfcreek pass without problems and so far put nearly 4000 miles of towing in this season. Still I have weighed my rig four times in 9 months each time making adjustments to get the payload weight down. Right now I am running close to 100% on all the numbers. Personally I don't like being that high but I'm not buying a new Dodge for a few years.

Because I full time we have lots of gear (inflatble boats, standup paddle boards, fishing gear, computers, books, etc, etc). If I had to do it again I would seriously consider the DRW. Mainly because it would keep me from moving plastic tubs from the basement into the rear of the Landmark to balance weight. That's close to 200 pounds of gear I move around each time we change locations (roughly every 2-3 weeks).

Honestly I'm hoping Reese makes a Goosebox that will carry greater than 16000lbs. I'm sure I could drop 200 lbs by getting rid of the picture frame and the extremely heavy Pullrite Superglide hitch. Then if I could lose 50 lbs myself I think I would be well under the manufacturer specs (time to hit the treadmill :)).

Edit: I am glad I chose the 4x4 option. I have used it in the 4x4 low go up small rain soaked hills in some campgrounds. Don't think I would have ever made it with standard 2x4.
 

Bohemian

Well-known member
Disagree. To my knowledge, the frame for the 250/2500 and 350/3500 are the same and there are no significant frame differences between SRW and DRW. Consider reading A Lesson on Gross Combined Weight Rating.

From the 2014 Ram brochure: The 2014 Ram 2500 frame now matches the recently upgraded 3500 frame, using 50 ksi steel—up from 35 ksi, with two new, additional crossmembers contributing to robust towing and hauling.

There are many frame (GVWR) options. Sometimes you even get to choose GVWR options.
 

DW_Gray

Well-known member
Honestly I'm hoping Reese makes a Goosebox that will carry greater than 16000lbs. I'm sure I could drop 200 lbs by getting rid of the picture frame and the extremely heavy Pullrite Superglide hitch. Then if I could lose 50 lbs myself I think I would be well under the manufacturer specs (time to hit the treadmill :)).

Tweetys.com has several to choose from with 24,000 pound rating. Even one with a cushion.
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
Fact is that no matter how capable the SRW is, the DRW drivers want you to have a DRW vehicle whether or not you want or need it. No matter how capable the 3500 becomes, this argument will continue.

As far as SAE is concerned, they require service factors to be employed in designs. So given SAE design requirements a 3500 operating at max is operating within design parameters. In fact, slightly over loaded is out of design parameters but still within service factors.

My towing accounts for 25% of the current milage on my truck. At this rate the my truck will tow 50,000 miles out of 200,000 miles of service. I dont think that anyone can make the case that 50,000 miles towing at max or slightly above is going to destroy a 3500. Mountain passes or not. The truck is designed to operate at capacity every day of its working life by the manufacturer.

The main argument is not surrounded by the fact that for a few bucks more you can have a DRW, but rather do people want to operate, maintain and provide insurance for a DRW for the 75% of the time the TV is not towing? The difference in cost of ownership far exceeds the the small difference in price to buy the option of a DRW. Your insurance company is charging you for insuring a truck that has a GVWR such as a DRW and they are assuming that you are operating it that way all the time. So when you are adding up all the expenses you will find out you are paying dearly for the small benefit you gain from the DRW vehicle.

I find it interesting, that many on this forum will buy cheap Chinese ST tires for their rigs that have no service factors built in, and blowout on a routine basis, then turn right around and tell you that you must far surpass your requirements for a tow vehicle because you might be a little beyond payload rating on a SRW.

If the math works and you are within GCVW and at max on payload, then you are well within design parameters. SAE design specs have already factored that into your ratings. And those design parameters include continuous use as well.
 

DW_Gray

Well-known member
There are many frame (GVWR) options. Sometimes you even get to choose GVWR options.

First of all, I'm referring to only 2014 at this time. I have no problem in admitting I'm wrong and will make any necessary corrections. I've published the facts that I have discovered and studied. If you can provide any documents that proves I'm in error, then please email them to me. I will gladly study them.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
I tow a 2013 Landmark Rushmore with a 2013 Ram 3500 SRW 4x4. So far it tows fine. I went up and down Wolfcreek pass without problems and so far put nearly 4000 miles of towing in this season.
I pulled our old trailer over Wolf Creek Pass a couple of times . . . that is one of many truck killers here in Colorado!



Honestly I'm hoping Reese makes a Goosebox that will carry greater than 16000lbs. I'm sure I could drop 200 lbs by getting rid of the picture frame and the extremely heavy Pullrite Superglide hitch. Then if I could lose 50 lbs myself I think I would be well under the manufacturer specs (time to hit the treadmill :)).

Of course, that tread mill will add another 400 pounds to your load! :p



I am glad I chose the 4x4 option. I have used it in the 4x4 low go up small rain soaked hills in some campgrounds. Don't think I would have ever made it with standard 2x4.

With my old truck (1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4) I used to use the 4WD to get up those truck killer passes!

I also need the 4WD to back my trailer in our yard as we have a rock garden where I park the trailer, and in 2WD I can only back it up so far before the rear tires start to spin in the rocks.

CamperInYard-IMG_0069.jpg
 
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