Jim.Allison
Well-known member
I like it........Thanks for the idea.......
Sewer Hose Storage and run
- Thread starter Bones
- Start date
Bones
Well-known member
The frame is mild steel so it is very easy to drill through. I did a small pilot hole first then I used my bigger bit.
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I have a modification to this idea. I'll post with a few picture soon. The schedule 20 didn't hold up well.
Bones
Well-known member
Yes I did upgrade to schedule 40 and I also changed the supports. I bought a few extra sewer connectors so that I can vary the set up a little bit. The pictured set up is this way because the front of the RV was actually lower or just about even with the rear so I would not get my slope to drain
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This setup is very similar to my original setup however I can now vary the heights of my supports depending on conditions. I have not finished my supports yet but you can see the markings on them. Those are where I will drill holes through the pipe and I will pin a support bar. The pipe is 1 inch now and I will use 1.5 inch tee and pipe to slide up and down over the 1 inch pipe. I plan on sanding all of the joints and pining them so that I can break them down as needed. The second setup not pictured is where I take the line from the front and use the wye and connect it to the rear via a 9 inch clear straight section. I can achieve a slope from the front to the rear and connect them together. I will take a picture the next time I have that setup. All of that will then connect to the gray black line to the dump point. This takes a little extra time to setup but is very nice with two bathrooms.<label for="rb_iconid_7"></label>
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I missed your post earlier. This is a really good idea. It would cost me 65 bucks for the one I could use. but I would have a problem with storing the pipe support like I am doing now.
.
This setup is very similar to my original setup however I can now vary the heights of my supports depending on conditions. I have not finished my supports yet but you can see the markings on them. Those are where I will drill holes through the pipe and I will pin a support bar. The pipe is 1 inch now and I will use 1.5 inch tee and pipe to slide up and down over the 1 inch pipe. I plan on sanding all of the joints and pining them so that I can break them down as needed. The second setup not pictured is where I take the line from the front and use the wye and connect it to the rear via a 9 inch clear straight section. I can achieve a slope from the front to the rear and connect them together. I will take a picture the next time I have that setup. All of that will then connect to the gray black line to the dump point. This takes a little extra time to setup but is very nice with two bathrooms.<label for="rb_iconid_7"></label>
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I missed your post earlier. This is a really good idea. It would cost me 65 bucks for the one I could use. but I would have a problem with storing the pipe support like I am doing now.
Attachments
porthole
Retired
BTW, that link is the supplier to the oddball water hose connector in our trailers. And a variety of AC vents.
Bones
Well-known member
I thought I would circle back with the last of the upgrades on my sewer run. I finally like How I have it configured and I did drill the holes in my pipe and glued them together. I found a sewer connector termination at the down pipe that I liked and would allow me the ability to use shorter length hoses and longer hoses depending on the run type to the last connection. Here are pictures.
Attachments
rxbristol
Well-known member
Sharp...great job.
Diamondjim
Well-known member
Bones - nice job, and the evolution of an idea is neat to watch as well. Ain't PVC fun to imagine with?
Bones
Well-known member
Thanks
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Thanks. The PVC made it easier but boy does that stuff make a mess when you cut it and then it's like static cling
Tundra2084
Well-known member
Bones it would be a big help if you could please explain what you used for the project. We would also like to have a set of these but a little bit confused on the sizes of the PVC used. Also how were you able to get the uprights stable in the cross section at the top where your able to adjust the height.
If you have list of parts, sizes and how assembled I'm sure we wouldn't be the only ones who want to make a set or 2.
Thanks
If you have list of parts, sizes and how assembled I'm sure we wouldn't be the only ones who want to make a set or 2.
Thanks
Bones
Well-known member
Sure I write up what and how I did it. I did use two different size pipes but I also sleeve the cross bar that adjust to keep it stable on the uprights and you cant see that in the pictures.
JohnD
Moved on to the next thing...
You know what bugs me is that no matter how we get setup at just about any campground we go to, the water hose, sewer hose and the electrical plug all crisscross!
You'd think that these should all be kept away from each other . . .
But that would be too easy in the design process, of course.
You'd think that these should all be kept away from each other . . .
But that would be too easy in the design process, of course.
Bones
Well-known member
Yes it does. This trip out I had to use my extension cord. Good thing I bought it. Eventually I am going to hard wire a surge protector inside and then mak myself a completly new power cord that is longer.
JohnD
Moved on to the next thing...
At the Colorado HOC Rally in Central City last weekend, our electrical cord just barely reached the pedestal.
I learned my lesson a couple of years back about making sure all if the connections will reach the desired destination before unhitching.
Our power cord comes out of the back wall just above the rear bumper, where the water and sewer connections are near the front next to the basement door.
You can see the power cord in the first shot (smaller black square to the left of center over bumper), and water and sewer connections in second shot.
JWalker
Northeast Region Director-Retired
That is similar to our set up. Electric in back and everything else in the UDC in the basement.
Tundra2084
Well-known member
Thanks Bones for making up a list of sizes. We do see the sleeve in the uprights and very curious about how to get the same results. We've been to HD and Lowe's trying to figure it out with no luck. We want to make them before we go to Florida in December. Dawn will be there for a month by herself and these will help keep all the plumbing off the ground and secure.
Bones
Well-known member
I'm going to stop at storage tomorrow so I can take close up pictures and show a little more detail. They are very easy to make. I spent some time on the drill press to make sure I got all the holes fairly close.
Bones
Well-known member
Ok First the list
(1) 1.25 inch pipe SCH 40
(1) 1 inch pipe SCH 40
(8) 1.25 inch Tee
(16) 1 inch Tee
Cut 1 inch pipe into these sections
(4) 6 inches long
(16) 4 inches long
(8) 12.5 inches long to 13 inches long. These are the uprights that have all the adjustment holes in them You can adjust these height on what would suite your camper best. This is what works for mine and what I thought would give me maximum adjust-ability in-case the terrain would slope or go up and down and so on.
Cut 1.25 inch pipe into the following sections
(4) 6 inches long
(16) 1 inches long roughly these are the inserts into the 1.25 inch Tee. these will solve the slop issue
Uprights have the holes spaced from the bottom 1 inch apart. Start you measurement after the inset depth of the pipe. This is the depth that the pipe will wit in the Tee and eventually be glued. The hole diameter is 1/4 inch
The cross bar that holds the sewer drain line the Tee has an over-sized hole in it I think about 5/16. You may have to drill a little bigger if the upright holes are off or you moved the pipe when gluing.
Here are a lot of pictures to help you visualize how it goes together. If you need more help let me know.
This is the crossover that has the over-sized holes in it so adjustments are a little easier
When I drilled the upright holes I used a drill press so I could ensure the holes were all good straight through. They are spaced 1 inch apart
The holes will allow you to adjust to gain the height and slope you need.
I almost forgot to mention the 4 inch pipe I cut in half on a table saw that the sewer line sits in. The length can vary on how you want to set it up and how you want to store it as well. By the way if you have access to a band saw that would work better to cut the pipe in half. You may get kick back if you don't have help with the table saw.
Hopefully I covered everything. If yo need any help ask. I will post in another post what I used to attach to the sewer pipe in the ground.
Here are the additional pieces I needed to make my system more universal for setup. I bought the whole kit Camco supplies because the piece I wanted was 20 bucks alone and at the time this kit was on sale on Amazon for 18 I think so it was kind of a no brainier.
This here is the piece I was after to terminate my combined lines after the Wye. This way I could use a combination of hose lengths from 10 feet collapsible to 20 feet then to a total of 40 feet of hose after the Wye.
Technically speaking you can actually take my set up and run both lines towards the ground drain and connect the Wye at the end and have no center line. There are a lot of variations you can do for your site. Have fun. The only down side is it is not perfectly collapsible like some things.
(1) 1.25 inch pipe SCH 40
(1) 1 inch pipe SCH 40
(8) 1.25 inch Tee
(16) 1 inch Tee
Cut 1 inch pipe into these sections
(4) 6 inches long
(16) 4 inches long
(8) 12.5 inches long to 13 inches long. These are the uprights that have all the adjustment holes in them You can adjust these height on what would suite your camper best. This is what works for mine and what I thought would give me maximum adjust-ability in-case the terrain would slope or go up and down and so on.
Cut 1.25 inch pipe into the following sections
(4) 6 inches long
(16) 1 inches long roughly these are the inserts into the 1.25 inch Tee. these will solve the slop issue
Uprights have the holes spaced from the bottom 1 inch apart. Start you measurement after the inset depth of the pipe. This is the depth that the pipe will wit in the Tee and eventually be glued. The hole diameter is 1/4 inch
The cross bar that holds the sewer drain line the Tee has an over-sized hole in it I think about 5/16. You may have to drill a little bigger if the upright holes are off or you moved the pipe when gluing.
Here are a lot of pictures to help you visualize how it goes together. If you need more help let me know.
This is the crossover that has the over-sized holes in it so adjustments are a little easier
When I drilled the upright holes I used a drill press so I could ensure the holes were all good straight through. They are spaced 1 inch apart
The holes will allow you to adjust to gain the height and slope you need.
I almost forgot to mention the 4 inch pipe I cut in half on a table saw that the sewer line sits in. The length can vary on how you want to set it up and how you want to store it as well. By the way if you have access to a band saw that would work better to cut the pipe in half. You may get kick back if you don't have help with the table saw.
Hopefully I covered everything. If yo need any help ask. I will post in another post what I used to attach to the sewer pipe in the ground.
Here are the additional pieces I needed to make my system more universal for setup. I bought the whole kit Camco supplies because the piece I wanted was 20 bucks alone and at the time this kit was on sale on Amazon for 18 I think so it was kind of a no brainier.
This here is the piece I was after to terminate my combined lines after the Wye. This way I could use a combination of hose lengths from 10 feet collapsible to 20 feet then to a total of 40 feet of hose after the Wye.
Technically speaking you can actually take my set up and run both lines towards the ground drain and connect the Wye at the end and have no center line. There are a lot of variations you can do for your site. Have fun. The only down side is it is not perfectly collapsible like some things.
Last edited:
travelin2
Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Bones, IMO, your design is missing one element important to drainage of wastes, no trap! I think I saw somewhere your mention, probably another post, that the DW has noticed odors in the rig. I know others have as have I.
Without going into the details of my setup and dump schedule/procedures, we each have our own, when we're stationary for a period of time and I have my grey tank(s) open I maintain a loop (trap) in my sewer hose. Otherwise your vent stack(s) become a vent for the park's sewage system. Sewer gases will be drawn right up through the sewer hose, grey tank(s), and vent(s) exiting right beside your ceiling vents/fans.
BTW-grey water will seek its own level.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Without going into the details of my setup and dump schedule/procedures, we each have our own, when we're stationary for a period of time and I have my grey tank(s) open I maintain a loop (trap) in my sewer hose. Otherwise your vent stack(s) become a vent for the park's sewage system. Sewer gases will be drawn right up through the sewer hose, grey tank(s), and vent(s) exiting right beside your ceiling vents/fans.
BTW-grey water will seek its own level.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
