Slides and landing gear slow to retract--have to push retract switches several times

[Rharvey742]

We have a 2014 Landmark and are in the middle of a two month camping trip around the southeast. We are staying one week at each camp site. When we are preparing to leave the camp sites to travel to the next campground the slides and landing gear are slow to retract. I have to move the slides in and out a little using the retract switches to finally get them to fully retract--when they stop retracting I have to push the switch to get them to extend slightly--then retract. The same for the hydraulic landing gear. I checked my batteries this morning using a multi-meter and they appear to be fully charged. The battery status lights inside also show the batteries are fully charged. Any thoughts/suggestions about why this is happening and what I can do to fix it. I'm concerned that I will be stuck somewhere and have to call a mobile repair service.

Thanks

 

[Roller4tan]

two things I would check is fluid level and make sure valves are all the way open for the slides. Make sure your connections to the pump motor are solid as well.
just my 2 cents

 

[Bob&Patty]

You may have a weak circuit breaker that has an auto reset on it and is getting weak.

 

[danemayer]

X2 on the 12V DC mini-circuit breaker. It's a 50 amp auto-reset mounted on a buss bar near your batteries. It's likely covered by a red rubber boot. Also check for loose wires and poorly crimped terminals at the circuit breaker and at the hydraulic pump.

 

[Rharvey742]

Thanks. I spoke to a Lippert service rep this afternoon and he also told me that it was likley the mini 50 amp circuit breaker connected to the solenoid for the pump. Will be trying to figure it out in this afternoon and find a replacement tomorrow.

Richard

 

[Bob&Patty]

Most auto parts will have them. Take the old one with you to match it up.

 

[Rharvey742]

I have a similar looking buss bar located above the batteries. Which fuse needs to be replaced--or do I replace all of them? The pump and solenoid area is a real rats nest so I 'm having a hard time tracing the wiring.

 

[danemayer]

I have a similar looking buss bar located above the batteries. Which fuse needs to be replaced--or do I replace all of them? The pump and solenoid area is a real rats nest so I 'm having a hard time tracing the wiring.

The input side of the breakers has the copper buss bar. The power from the Battery and Cutoff Switch is on the thick red wire attached to the buss bar side. The heavy red wire on the other side of that breaker goes to the Power Converter. The other heavy red wire goes to the hydraulics pump. The breakers can be individually removed.

Turn off the battery cutoff switch(es) and also turn off the circuit breaker for the Power Converter (or all circuit breakers or unplug shore power). Each circuit breaker is mounted with 2 screws. The terminal wires are held in place by nuts that are 5/16" if I recall correctly.

Get a 12V auto reset 50 amp breaker with the same form factor. You can usually find them at auto parts or marine parts stores. An RV dealer parts dep't will probably have them as well. Should cost around $5-$10.

 

[Rharvey742]

Thanks. I think I've figured it out. I've traced the wires from the buss bar to the pump solenoid. The Lippert Service rep said that is the one to replace. I would post photos but I don't know how to do so on this forum.

Richard

 

[dieseldoug]

The symptoms you describe and the suggested root cause implies that something is dissipating the energy delivered by the battery, such that the pump does not run at full power so that the hydraulics are operating at half mast. The reason this is interesting is this; if this is true then the offending component should get warm or even hot, under load. any breaker, solenoid or connection can do this but my point is that (be careful..) that this knowledge might help you locate the problem.

I would also suggest that the mult-meter and the on-battery indicator may not be trustworthy indicators of battery health. You can use the multi-meter, however, to find the offending voltage drop under load: have someone operate the slides while you measure the "under load" voltage at the battery and at various points along the circuit leading to the pump. If battery is healthy you should measure close to 12volts at the battery. Keep measuring the voltage along the circuit -- a faulty solenoid or breaker will show a large/unusual voltage drop across it (put the black lead on one terminal and the red lead on the other). Ideally, you should measure close to zero or couple of tenths of a volt perhaps. Don't forget to test cable ends, connections, etc.

 

[hriker]

I encountered the same issue a year ago and replacing the breaker corrected the problem. Purchased 2 breakers at a NAPA Auto Parts store. The second one was to have spare should this ever happen again. Good luck!!

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

 

[Rharvey742]

Went to three auto parts stores (NAPA, Autozone, and O'reilly's) no luck. Clerks directed me to two local RV stores/dealers. Last one had 50 amp auto reset circuit breakers. Purchased 2 and installed one. at least the slides are working fine now. Will see about the hydraulic levelers later.

Thanks to everyone. Only had to go to 5 places and drive a total of 45 miles--but things are working.

Richard

 

[justafordguy]

That's great news, glad it was a simple fix.