Yes all fuses are good. It's weird, all the lights except the bathroom lights work on DC power.
Slides stopping
- Thread starter dana22
- Start date
Yes all fuses are good. It's weird, all the lights except the bathroom lights work on DC power.
WillyBill
Well-known member
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
The fuse indicater light will only light up if the light switch in on and the fuse is pulled or blown.
We have a 2015 Ashland I pulled the 5th fuse down and it killed all of my bathroom lights.
Start there. The wires go from there up into the ceiling then over and back down to the switches in the bathroom wall.
Hope this helps
Jerrod
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
We have a 2015 Ashland I pulled the 5th fuse down and it killed all of my bathroom lights.
Start there. The wires go from there up into the ceiling then over and back down to the switches in the bathroom wall.
Hope this helps
Jerrod
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Candie
Mike & Candie Beaudette
To solve the issue of the slides stopping, I moved the hydraulic motor cable from the 50amp fuse directly to the 12volt bus bar, and then replaced the main 50amp reset able fuse coming from the battery to an 80 amp reset-able fuse. See the attached current that the slide were using in December last year
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Dennyha
Well-known member
I wanted to follow up on my earlier posts. (I wish I had started a separate thread. Sorry.)
After returning from the holidays, I found my batteries were totally dead. I normally keep my camper unplugged, and have the solar to keep the batteries charged. This had never happened before. As soon as I plugged in the camper, I heard a circuit breaker continually popping every few seconds. I determined, by feel, that it was the main 50 amp circuit breaker in line between the positive battery terminal and the buss bar. I had a spare 50 amp breaker that I installed, and everything seems to be fine. The batteries charged up to 100%, and I was able to extend and retract the slides without issue.
I think that I need to upgrade this 50 amp breaker to an 80 amp. I’ve already upgraded the breaker between the buss bar and the hydraulic pump to 80 amp to address cut outs while retracting the landing gear. I also think I’m going to upgrade the wires on that line up to 2 gauge.
I haven’t had a chance to check voltage levels while retracting the landing gear as I need to reinstall my hitch first. Perhaps the proposed upgrades in breaker size and wire size will fix the issue with retracting the landing gear too.
After returning from the holidays, I found my batteries were totally dead. I normally keep my camper unplugged, and have the solar to keep the batteries charged. This had never happened before. As soon as I plugged in the camper, I heard a circuit breaker continually popping every few seconds. I determined, by feel, that it was the main 50 amp circuit breaker in line between the positive battery terminal and the buss bar. I had a spare 50 amp breaker that I installed, and everything seems to be fine. The batteries charged up to 100%, and I was able to extend and retract the slides without issue.
I think that I need to upgrade this 50 amp breaker to an 80 amp. I’ve already upgraded the breaker between the buss bar and the hydraulic pump to 80 amp to address cut outs while retracting the landing gear. I also think I’m going to upgrade the wires on that line up to 2 gauge.
I haven’t had a chance to check voltage levels while retracting the landing gear as I need to reinstall my hitch first. Perhaps the proposed upgrades in breaker size and wire size will fix the issue with retracting the landing gear too.
travelin2
Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
I upgraded that breaker, using the existing cable, to a 60A marine breaker two years ago when it failed during a trip south in sub freezing temps.
I’m of the mind that installing a higher amperage breaker than the 60 requires replacing cables.
Also see post #18 of this thread
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
wdk450
Well-known member
FYI, the battery charging/battery to inside loads breaker is normally rated at 50 amps ( a standard RV size). My factory installed Progressive 9260 charger/converter is rated to put out a maximum of 60 amps. So theoretically, the converter/charger putting out its maximum 60 amps can blow the 50 amp NON self-resetting main breaker. Loads from the 12 volt interior lighting, refrigerator control, water heater control, and HVAC control should not pull anything near 50 amps even with everything turned on. (BTW, I recommend replacing all incandescent lighting with LED bulbs - 1/10th the current draw of incandescent bulbs).
The larger loads on the buss bar (landing gear, slides) normally have 50 amp self-resetting breakers. Putting in a larger amperage breaker to these high current devices COULD cause a full 60 amp pull from the converter/charger to the bus bar, tripping the normal 50 amp main charging/battery non self resetting breaker. I would recommend upping the main breaker to 60 amps if you up any of the high current breakers above 50 amps. I believe there is some regulation that says this particular function (battery power) breaker should not be self-resetting, probably for short circuit electrical fire prevention.
Just to explain the wiring and my terminology, the 50 amp battery charging/battery NON self-resetting breaker is so wired that with shore AC power this limits the charging current to the battery to 50 amps. Without shore AC power, this breaker limits the amount of battery supplied current that can be drawn to the lighting, refrigerator logic, water heater logic and HVAC control inside 12 volt DC loads. So if this NON-SELF RESETTING breaker trips 1) NO charging current is supplied to the batteries when AC shore power is connected, but the inside lights, etc. WILL work due to the current supplied by the battery charger/converter. 2) These same inside lights, etc. WILL NOT WORK when shore AC power is not connected since the current path from the battery to the 12 volt DC fusepanel is interrupted by the tripped breaker.
The larger loads on the buss bar (landing gear, slides) normally have 50 amp self-resetting breakers. Putting in a larger amperage breaker to these high current devices COULD cause a full 60 amp pull from the converter/charger to the bus bar, tripping the normal 50 amp main charging/battery non self resetting breaker. I would recommend upping the main breaker to 60 amps if you up any of the high current breakers above 50 amps. I believe there is some regulation that says this particular function (battery power) breaker should not be self-resetting, probably for short circuit electrical fire prevention.
Just to explain the wiring and my terminology, the 50 amp battery charging/battery NON self-resetting breaker is so wired that with shore AC power this limits the charging current to the battery to 50 amps. Without shore AC power, this breaker limits the amount of battery supplied current that can be drawn to the lighting, refrigerator logic, water heater logic and HVAC control inside 12 volt DC loads. So if this NON-SELF RESETTING breaker trips 1) NO charging current is supplied to the batteries when AC shore power is connected, but the inside lights, etc. WILL work due to the current supplied by the battery charger/converter. 2) These same inside lights, etc. WILL NOT WORK when shore AC power is not connected since the current path from the battery to the 12 volt DC fusepanel is interrupted by the tripped breaker.
Candie
Mike & Candie Beaudette
Just note in post #24 that I measured the current draw from the slides being extended @ 71 amps, so that would also trip the 60 amp main battery reset-able fuse and the 50 amp reset-able fuse between the hydraulic motor and the buss bar if left in. Of course the 50 amp would reset first, giving you the same slide stopping issue. When I removed the 50 reset-able fuse and wired directly to the buss bar and updated the main battery 50 amp fuse to 80 amps I have not had a slide interruption issue.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Candie
Mike & Candie Beaudette
There is one fuse in the picture that is now empty, because I moved the hydraulic motor connection to the bus bar which is now the connection at the bottom of the bus bar. The fuse at the bottom of the screen is the 80 amp reset-able fuse which feeds the whole trailer.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Dennyha
Well-known member
So, based on advice on this thread, I replaced the 50 amp breaker, between the batteries and the buss bar, with an 80 amp breaker. I originally did not see this breaker as it was blocked from sight by the battery box. Anyway, when I hitched up, I had withdrawn all of my slides and all of my leveling legs, and there were no power cut outs. I did it several times with no issues. Problem fixed. Thanks.
carl.swoyer
Well-known member
I personally wouldn't do the 80 amp breaker. Your wires are probably not sufficient for the 80 amp draw.
I also had to replace mine and I stayed with the 50 and carry a couple of spares. The auto reset breakers do wear out.
Only a suggestion.
Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Dennyha
Well-known member
I put the 80 amp circuit breaker in, and as expected, there is no more tripping when I’m retracting the legs.
I still want to find the reason for the high amps. While my wife operated the control panel to retract and extend the legs, I checked voltage at different points in the system. First off, I have two 12 volt lithium batteries. The resting voltage at the battery terminals is about 13.2 volts. When the legs are retracting, the voltage at the battery terminals is about 12.5-12.6. I repeatedly moved my positive probe along the system, and it is about 12.3 volts until I checked the return wire from the battery cutoff switch. The return wire is showing 12.0 volts or slightly under. Somehow I’m losing about .3 volts on the loop going to the battery cutoff. I’m going to replace both legs with 2 gauge wire, and a new cutoff switch. I’m also going to replace the wire going from the 80 amp circuit breaker to the hydraulic pump.
I want to eliminate this .3 volt drop I’m seeing at the battery cutoff, but I’ll wind up upgrading all of the positive wires between the battery and the hydraulic pump as well.
I still want to find the reason for the high amps. While my wife operated the control panel to retract and extend the legs, I checked voltage at different points in the system. First off, I have two 12 volt lithium batteries. The resting voltage at the battery terminals is about 13.2 volts. When the legs are retracting, the voltage at the battery terminals is about 12.5-12.6. I repeatedly moved my positive probe along the system, and it is about 12.3 volts until I checked the return wire from the battery cutoff switch. The return wire is showing 12.0 volts or slightly under. Somehow I’m losing about .3 volts on the loop going to the battery cutoff. I’m going to replace both legs with 2 gauge wire, and a new cutoff switch. I’m also going to replace the wire going from the 80 amp circuit breaker to the hydraulic pump.
I want to eliminate this .3 volt drop I’m seeing at the battery cutoff, but I’ll wind up upgrading all of the positive wires between the battery and the hydraulic pump as well.
