Tire changing help needed for new NT owner "nanaearth"

[jbeletti]

Hey gang,

A new NT owners here, nanaearth needs your help. On their way home from a camping trip, around the corner from home, they had a blow-out

They need some guidance on doing a proper tire change. The one blows is door side front.

Specifically, they need:
- Lug size so they can buy a 4-way tire iron with the right size
- What size bottle jack they should buy
- Where to best place the jack (frame assumably) but exactly where
- Other tips

Post your replies to this thread, then drop a courtesy note to them with the link to the thread. Here is a link to email them at.

Thanks Heartland North Trail Family!

Jim

 

[campntn]

I would say get the four way lug wrench and it'll be on there. I have one, but I don't know what size it is. I've asked a resource and maybe he can tell me soon and I'll post it here.
And always get the jack on the frame, not the axle. Use a wood piece between the jack and the frame to prevent denting of the frame.
Get a jack that would support around 7K pounds and you should be fine. It's not a heavy trailer.
Please keep us informed and good luck.

 

[medic9016]

Lug size is 13/16"

I would put a couple of 2x6 down behind the good tire and back up on them. That will lift the trailer enough to change the tire. I would only use a jack if both tires were blown on the same side. With the 2x6s there is no stress on the frame and no guess work were to put a jack.

 

[cdbMidland]

Lug size is 13/16"

I would put a couple of 2x6 down behind the good tire and back up on them. That will lift the trailer enough to change the tire. I would only use a jack if both tires were blown on the same side. With the 2x6s there is no stress on the frame and no guess work were to put a jack.

I respectfully disagree as this overloads the good tire. When there is one good and one bad, there is still weight on the bad one.

 

[pmmjarrett]

Hey Jim,

Next time you run into this situation feel free to pass on my Cell #



Most trailers are 13/16", some have 3/4" and some larger units have 7/8" Only 3 you need to change nearly any trailer tire.

4 ton Jack is plenty but I don't use a jack and wouldn't jack on the frame unless I can't get the jack under the axle.

I use a 1' piece of 4x4 and a couple pieces of 3/4" plywood about 2' x 6" to make a ramp and drive the good tire onto the boards. Usually lifts high enough to change most tires. Will use a jack under the axle if I need a little more clearance which is usually only a fraction of an inch.

Always use a board under a jack unless you are on concrete, have had jacks sink into asphault and gravel.

 

[pmmjarrett]

I respectfully disagree as this overloads the good tire. When there is one good and one bad, there is still weight on the bad one.

I respectfully disagree.

It works. Changed 2 like this a couple weeks ago and been doing it like this for years.

 

[cdbMidland]

To each his own. I'll continue to use a jack on my unit.

 

[sailorand]

putting all the weight on one tire will overload the tire which unsafe.

 

[katkens]

I guess I don't understand the dilemma here on the safety issue of a flat tire. If your going down the road an a tire goes flat all the weight has already been transfered to the remaining tires. If there is damage to a tire remaining ,its already happened and running up on blocks to change the flat tire is mute in my opinion . The only problem I see is the way these suspension systems are is actually getting it high enough on blocks safely to get the new tire on. I know they sell tire changing ramps but wonder if they work as claimed . Just another opinion , get one once in awhile ....Kenny

 

[Forrest Fetherolf]

I guess I don't understand the dilemma here on the safety issue of a flat tire. If your going down the road an a tire goes flat all the weight has already been transfered to the remaining tires. If there is damage to a tire remaining ,its already happened and running up on blocks to change the flat tire is mute in my opinion.

katkens,

You have a good point, when I had (photo 1), I used http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/trailer-aid/10867 and http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93373. Some trailer weight was still on the flat tire rim, the ramp under the good tire did not raise the flat tire high enough to install spare, placed the jack under the outer spring u-bolt to raise axle.

Hitting a pothole, some bridge transitions, bumpy road, or curbs will put more stress on a good tire and suspension than slowly driving up a ramp for a few minutes to change out a tire.

Jacking from a the frame lifts 1/2 the trailer weight and requires a longer jack and/or several blocks, jacking from the axle spring u-bolt lifts 1/4 the weight and requires a shorter jack and maybe one block and ramp.....................which is safer and easier to tote about?

Forrest

 

[Uncle Rog]

Howdy, I have had 2 failures on the road and I have to go with pmj and FF on this one. I guarantee you that when you lose a tire the surviving wheel / tire gets a pretty good thrashing from the weight exchange and the incidental debris. The second failure was just out side of Death Valley, road assistance was nary around. I hate to admit it but I did not have all my "gear" with me, so after I was able to remove the wheel, and get the tread loose from the suspension, I drove 20+ miles to the CG on the one tire! (slowly) I have now set up to use the block / jack combo for any future problems...........

Note: When airing up the tires I now check the torque on the valve stem nuts, I had a slow leak from one last year.................

 

[cmart]

Katkens, your right on target.

 

[cdbMidland]

I took advantage of someone's post earlier today with a link to Goodyear to ask the question of Goodyear if changing a tire by driving up the good one on a ramp was acceptable.

I got a reply, and I would like to post it, but there was a confidentiality statement that I need to have approved before I can do this.

If I may paraphrase the answer, however, using a ramp is NOT an acceptable way to change the tire. I will print the complete answer once I receive permission from Goodyear.

 

[5erWonk]

I had the opportunity this weekend to try the ramp method. No problem rolling up the ramp and removing the flat, but was not high enough to get the new tire installed.

I used my bottle jack under the spring to compress and got enough clearance to get the new tire on.

next time I will use a couple more blocks to get enough elevation.

 

[cdbMidland]

I took advantage of someone's post earlier today with a link to Goodyear to ask the question of Goodyear if changing a tire by driving up the good one on a ramp was acceptable.

I got a reply, and I would like to post it, but there was a confidentiality statement that I need to have approved before I can do this.

If I may paraphrase the answer, however, using a ramp is NOT an acceptable way to change the tire. I will print the complete answer once I receive permission from Goodyear.

I received permission last night...

Mr Batcke,

Please feel free to post our exchange of communication on your Heartland Owners Forum. My only request is that you post your question as well as my reply, since it takes both pieces to understand the whole picture with the loads, etc. Thanks for asking!

Please feel free to contact me with further questions.

Have a Great Day!

Thank you,
Patrick J. King
Strategic Accounts Technical Manager
The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company
330-796-8875 (office)
330-232-5244 (cell)
pat_king@goodyear.com

My question was...

Subject: Temporarily overloading a G-range tire to change a tire


I have a question about whether it is permissible to temporarily overload a good tire in order to change a blown tire. Have been advised to drive the good tire up a ramp so that the blown tire has the clearance to be changed. Total axle weight is 12,000# on two 7,000# axles and running G614 RSTs at 110# psi with maximum weight of 3,750#/tire. If driving up on a ramp, the good tire would temporarily support 5,800-6,200# on that side (perhaps even more if some of the other side weight would shift due to the slight angle) for the length of time it would take to change the tire.

Please advise if this is considered a problem.

And his answer was...

Mr. Batcke,

This email is in reference to your question to temporarily overloading a load range G tire in order to change a tire (LT235/85R16 LR-G Goodyear G614).

Goodyear can not support this request. The 2008 T&RA (pg 3-04) covers tire overloading conditions on improved surfaces. The loads you quote exceed the allowable loads covered by these guidelines of +75% of the dual load (3415#) under a creeping speed range. Additionally, the ramp described can not be considered an improved surface.

Goodyear recommends you consult your vehicle owners manual for recommendations on changing a tire.

Thank you,
Patrick J. King
Strategic Accounts Technical Manager
The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company
330-796-8875 (office)
330-232-5244 (cell)
pat_king@goodyear.com

Contains Confidential and/or Proprietary Information. May not be copied or disseminated without the expressed written consent of The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company.

 

[pmmjarrett]

Ummmm OK, does this mean while I would go out and recklessly change the tire in 10 minutes and be on my merry way, you would be still sitting on the side of the road camped out for 2 weeks because somebody wouldn't didn't give you permission to change the tire with an unapproved methodNone

Their position is no position. Of course they are not going to approve it. Think liability, lawsuits and bean counters. Nobody said it was an approved method, we said it works, and it works well.

 

[cdbMidland]

Well, it takes me about an hour using two bottle jacks and a couple pieces of railroad ties. After paying over $250/tire for my G614s, I want to get as much life out of the tire as mileage or time allows (I think 5 years is the maximum). You are probably mostly hauling new units, much lighter in most cases than my loaded BH going to/from Florida to Michigan, and, after you drop it off, you don't know how long that other tire lasts.

Still, I appreciate your situation as well, where time is money.

 

[jmgratz]

If you have the Mor-Ryde IS driving up on a ramp will not work unless it is a very tall ramp.

 

[pmmjarrett]

Well, it takes me about an hour using two bottle jacks and a couple pieces of railroad ties. After paying over $250/tire for my G614s, I want to get as much life out of the tire as mileage or time allows (I think 5 years is the maximum). You are probably mostly hauling new units, much lighter in most cases than my loaded BH going to/from Florida to Michigan, and, after you drop it off, you don't know how long that other tire lasts.

Still, I appreciate your situation as well, where time is money.

Was just busting yer chops and picking on ya a little.None

Yep 95% of what I haul is new except for the occasional used unit or my own trailer.

I have blown tires on enclosed car haulers that you couldn't even get a jack under the side of the trailer when I blew a rear tire on the tandems and soft sandy shoulders on 2 lane roads where a jack only sinks into the sand and there isn't room for a board under the jack.

I run a lot of the HOT, ASAP and time sensitive loads that a lot of drivers wont touch which has kept me very busy even when everyone else is complaining there isn't no freight. If I missed a friday afternoon deadline and had to baby sit a load until monday it could cost me a couple thousand $$$ in lost revenue.

 

[irvin56]

wide trax north trail

An owner of a north trail posted on the northtrail forum, that a ramp did not work for him because of the 42 inch spread of axles. He had to use jacks to change a flat