Wastewater tank valve replacement

ronbro

Member
Just purchased a 2012 3610 Bighorn 5th wheel. Found out after it probably requires replacement of the black water tank valve and the 2 grey water tank valve. have been quoted about $500can for the 3 valves and $1500can to install, (about 14hrs labor). Anyone else had similar work done and approx. costs.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Hello Ronbro and welcome to this great forum.
Why do you think that the valves need to be replaced?
If they are leaking a bit then a much cheaper alternative would be to install a twist on valve. I, as well as many others here have the twist on valve.
A Valtera twist on valve is around 25 bucks US.
s-l225.jpg

Put it on and leave it on.

Peace
Dave
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Let us know what the problem is with the valves. For example, if they're hard to operate, a shot of silicone lubricant on each plunger might be all you need.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
Once we determine the extent of the fix, maybe the blade seals just have to be replaced. This is either easy or difficult depending upon pipe routing.
 

ronbro

Member
The two grey water valves are extremely hard to operate. Almost takes two hands. Black water valve not attached at all. Old owner installed a new valve at end of discharge of all tanks but that means to empty grey water also empties black. This is not acceptable to me. Was told that normal manufacturing was to make the cables too short so they bind in the short bend required. The replacements have a longer cable and therefore easier to operate. Don't mind the $500 for the new valve kits but hard to comprehend 14 hrs labor quotes to remove old and install new kits. Also figured if they are opening the bottom up to do the black, might as well do them all.

Ron Brown
Edmonton, Ab, Canada
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I don't know why the valve kits should cost $500 unless the exchange rate is 3:1. Is this the part you're buying?

As for labor, maybe they're charging you the price for replacing 1 valve, 3 times, even though a lot of the labor won't be repeated for valves 2 and 3. Or maybe they're must charging you 3x the going rate on labor, just like on the parts.

Seriously, many times a shot of silicon lube on the valve plunger will let it operate freely. The one that's disconnect may just need to be reconnected at the plunger. This can all be done relatively easily if you are willing to deal with opening the coroplast.
 

Roller4tan

Well-known member
1 1/2" gray valves are around $25, 3" black valves around $45, so about $100 for three valves. I've replaced the kitchen gray in about 2 hours. The charge for parts is ridiculous, as is the labor charges in my humble opinion.
 

hoefler

Well-known member
I replaced all 3 my self, I installed Barkley electric valves on both grays, replacing the cable operated ones. The black valve was a direct connect to the UDC with a rod extension, so I left manualy operated. Total cost of parts was just under $250, and about 4 hours of work in my drive way. If I didn't go with the electric valves, parts cost would have been about $150, the labor would be a little less.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
On my old unit, I had to cut one of the PVC lines in order to be able to remove the valves, which were ganged together. I also had to cut the discharge line. However, all of this did not take two days ( $1500 charge for you ). Yikes!
 

ac7nj

Member
Yes and that is outrageous look on line for the parts electric with wires and switch under $150 cable type under $50 rubber gaskets under $25. Plastic pipe cement and fittings (if needed) under $20 if you’re not sure what you’re doing try YouTube I’m certain someone else has filmed the job. Skill level beginner
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
I had to replace my black tank valve and one gray water valve. It is easy. If the cable is still in the rig, you only need the valve https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T10...qid=1511924715&sr=8-2&keywords=rv+sewer+valve Each valve with the cable is just an ordinary valve inserted into a case with the cable. Four screws hold the standard valve in the holder. The new valves pull handle is unscrewed and the old valve's cable connector end is unscrewed and screwed onto the new valve stem. The cable is held by a set screw. If you think the cable is binding in the jacket, then remove it and lube it with graphite. Mine were binding like yours and leaking some. Replacing the valves and squirt some silicone down the cable cleared up the problem. I did not have to replace the cables. What you were quoted was by people who did not want to do the job, but were willing for a ridiculous price so long as you did not go elsewhere.

To empty the tanks, tilt your rig towards the valves so the tanks empty as much as they can. Then tilt it away from the valves. That way it will not drip on you. The area is tight and you may have to cut the pipes to angle it in to connect it back together. If uyou don't the new gaskets may pop out of position. I used flexible pipe couplings to put the pipes back together again.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...s&tag=geminipcstand-20&ref=pd_sl_2j5adq16u2_e Easy to do, but the area to work in is very tight in my Big Horn. It is doable and should not take you more than a day for all the valves assuming you have not done a valve replacement before.
 

PZollo

Member
I had to replace my black tank valve and one gray water valve. It is easy. If the cable is still in the rig, you only need the valve https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T10...qid=1511924715&sr=8-2&keywords=rv+sewer+valve Each valve with the cable is just an ordinary valve inserted into a case with the cable. Four screws hold the standard valve in the holder. The new valves pull handle is unscrewed and the old valve's cable connector end is unscrewed and screwed onto the new valve stem. The cable is held by a set screw. If you think the cable is binding in the jacket, then remove it and lube it with graphite. Mine were binding like yours and leaking some. Replacing the valves and squirt some silicone down the cable cleared up the problem. I did not have to replace the cables. What you were quoted was by people who did not want to do the job, but were willing for a ridiculous price so long as you did not go elsewhere.

To empty the tanks, tilt your rig towards the valves so the tanks empty as much as they can. Then tilt it away from the valves. That way it will not drip on you. The area is tight and you may have to cut the pipes to angle it in to connect it back together. If uyou don't the new gaskets may pop out of position. I used flexible pipe couplings to put the pipes back together again.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...s&tag=geminipcstand-20&ref=pd_sl_2j5adq16u2_e Easy to do, but the area to work in is very tight in my Big Horn. It is doable and should not take you more than a day for all the valves assuming you have not done a valve replacement before.

How did you access the valve? I have a 2014 Landmark and the #2 Gray cable has come loose. Can you access it from the cargo compartment or do you have to drop the cover under the coach?
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi PZollo,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

Be sure and join our Heartland Owners Club, it’s free now. Then join us at a rally when you can and meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.

Enjoy the forum.
Jim M
 
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