Winterizing City Water

[berky]

Does anyone know how and where the city water connection ties into the general plumbing on a 26LRSS? After my first shot at winterizing, I'm a little uncomfortable with the thought that there might be water lying in the line from the city water connection to wherever.

I first drained the system by opening the low point valves and opening each of the faucets. Then I used the trailer's pump to pump the pink stuff to each outlet. Since the city water connection is on the opposite side of the trailer from the pump and fresh water tank suction line, I'm thinking I may have missed a line.

 

[CanadianAV]

When you pump the pink antifreeze in take the screen out of the city water inlet and push in on the check valve with your finger to let any water out.

 

[JohnDar]

If you have a black tank flush port with a check valve, be sure to press the button on that, as well. There will be water between the anti-siphon valve and the port if you don't.

 

[sjs731]

I use the air compressor attachment you can get from Camping World and first blow all the water out of the lines before I put antifreeze in the lines. I also blow out the flush line too. I use 40 psi. It may be performing the same task as running antifreeze through the lines but I like to be sure all the water is gone.


Steve
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JohnDar]

I use the air compressor attachment you can get from Camping World and first blow all the water out of the lines before I put antifreeze in the lines. I also blow out the flush line too. I use 40 psi. It may be performing the same task as running antifreeze through the lines but I like to be sure all the water is gone.


Steve
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do the same thing with mine. Helps give my little 3-gallon compressor and a spare 2.5KW genny from the FD a workout in the storage yard.

 

[berky]

Thanks for all of the help guys. Had not even thought about the black flush line. I will now sleep much better .... and look forward to spring.

 

[JRBEN]

I just winterized my 26LRSS as well. It needed 3 gallons of antifreeze when I was only expecting to need 2. Good thing I bought an extra. Also, I posted this in the Design Ideas Discussion area, but any idea why Heartland would put the low point valves right behind the wheels? I had a devil of a time getting to them to open them up.

 

[Noobie]

Another thing to do is move to AZ no winterizing here I love it!

 

[pegmikef]

Does anyone know how and where the city water connection ties into the general plumbing on a 26LRSS?

If your NT is like my 2011 model, then you can access that line by removing the bedroom drawers. You can also access the electrical bus here as well. Here in West Texas since I use ours all year and have it at home winterizing amounts to running a couple of electric heaters.

 

[berky]

If your NT is like my 2011 model, then you can access that line by removing the bedroom drawers. You can also access the electrical bus here as well. Here in West Texas since I use ours all year and have it at home winterizing amounts to running a couple of electric heaters.

I kind of wondered how you got to the back side of the city water, showers, and electric. I'll take a look tomorrow, but I'm guessing there was no change in the 2012.

I hope it's a long time before I need to do any work in there. When I saw where the converter was, I figured I better start saving my pennies to pay someone else to replace it when the time came. No way this robust body can do the contortions needed to work on it.

 

[berky]

I just winterized my 26LRSS as well. It needed 3 gallons of antifreeze when I was only expecting to need 2. Good thing I bought an extra. Also, I posted this in the Design Ideas Discussion area, but any idea why Heartland would put the low point valves right behind the wheels? I had a devil of a time getting to them to open them up.

The drain location is just one of those necessary design compromises. They can't be much further aft, because inside the lines rise up to accomodate the water heater and the kitchen sink. They can't be much further forward because inside the lines need to manuever around the furnace.

I just lay on my back behind the wheels and reach up to turn the drain valves. For myself, I find the frsh water tank drain behind the rear steps more of a PITA.

But at the end of the day, I have no major complaints about either. The high clearance under the 26LRSS makes any work under it painless.

 

[JRBEN]

Yeah that's pretty much how I do it. Its not really a big deal, I was just wondering it just seems like an odd location, but I see your point. I do love the high clearance on the 26LRSS though.

 

[ZNK]

You need to get yourself a winterizing adapter for the city water input. Then blow all the air out with a air compressor, no more than 50 psi. Then add anti freeze to all of the drains, just enough to coat the bottom of the tanks.

Camping World has a few styles available all on sale, since many are in need at this time. Less than $10 bucks.

Does anyone know how and where the city water connection ties into the general plumbing on a 26LRSS? After my first shot at winterizing, I'm a little uncomfortable with the thought that there might be water lying in the line from the city water connection to wherever.

I first drained the system by opening the low point valves and opening each of the faucets. Then I used the trailer's pump to pump the pink stuff to each outlet. Since the city water connection is on the opposite side of the trailer from the pump and fresh water tank suction line, I'm thinking I may have missed a line.