Winterizing Question

['Lil Guy']

We have our BH under cover presently and we drained everything including the water heater. I'm worried I didn't blow out the pipes or add antifreeze to unit with the temps getting in mid 20's for about 10 hours. Should freeze again tonight. At this point, I don't know what to do except hope the pipes don't leak. Do you think the plumbing will survive or am I in for a rude awakening? Thanks in advance.

 

[Steve.Twoknee]

Being optimistic, I'd run antifreeze now! Don't forget to open the low point drains first (hoping you've done that). With the water heater drained (well done) make sure you bi-pass that and avoid antifreeze sitting in it all winter.
Pex plumbing has a slight amount of flex (expanding and so forth) that we all want to avoid, but in my honest opinion it is the joints that are most in danger of being damaged with water freezing.
So, if I were you, I'd take the time to run antifreeze now. Also, don't forget to pour some down all the drains to keep the traps from freezing!
Good luck!


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[travelin2]

Under cover, meaning under a roof or tarp??? If under roof, Turn on the furnace set at 40* if you're concerned. Tarp--if the tarp covers the furnace vent clear it from the vent. It will melt the tarp, not good!
Unlikely any damage If the temp is below freezing overnight but warms during the day.


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[danemayer]

Frank,

You have a number of points of exposure including the toilet valve, water pump, and p-traps. The toilet valve, water pump and p--traps will all have water in them and can be cracked in a hard freeze. Faucet damage is less likely but still possible.

If nothing's already been damaged, a few gallons of RV antifreeze is cheap insurance.

 

[Steve.Twoknee]

Frank,

You have a number of points of exposure including the toilet valve, water pump, and p-traps. The toilet valve, water pump and p--traps will all have water in them and can be cracked in a hard freeze. Faucet damage is less likely but still possible.

If nothing's already been damaged, a few gallons of RV antifreeze is cheap insurance.

Agreed!


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[Relayman]

I drained the fresh water tank, and the hot water heater, then pressurized the entire water system wit air at about 30 psi..blew out all the lines, operated the reefer water dispenser and cycled the ice maker a bunch too, opened the valves,including the toilet to blow the water out, emptied the clear bowl on the water pump , put antifreeze in all the p traps including the washer drain. All waste tanks got a small dose as well. Then put a small electric heater in the basement next to the water pump as an added precaution. we had 18 degrees here this morning. Hope I covered everything.

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[Steve.Twoknee]

It would seem you've covered all the bases and can rest easy!


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[Gary521]

You may have missed one thing. The screen filter in the infeed to the water pump does not get blow out with air pressure. I have had this freeze and crack. The heater here will help.

 

[Relayman]

You may have missed one thing. The screen filter in the infeed to the water pump does not get blow out with air pressure. I have had this freeze and crack. The heater here will help.

i should have pumped some antifreeze into it...but since i drained the bowl and put the heater near to it...im hoping it will be protected.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

I drained the fresh water tank, and the hot water heater, then pressurized the entire water system wit air at about 30 psi..blew out all the lines, operated the reefer water dispenser and cycled the ice maker a bunch too, opened the valves,including the toilet to blow the water out, emptied the clear bowl on the water pump , put antifreeze in all the p traps including the washer drain. All waste tanks got a small dose as well. Then put a small electric heater in the basement next to the water pump as an added precaution. we had 18 degrees here this morning. Hope I covered everything.

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A few that sometimes get missed are the black tank flush and the outside shower. Did you blow out these too?

 

['Lil Guy']

Great forum and thanks for the replies. I put antifreeze in the traps and opened up the side wall of the UDC Everything looks good to the eye. I didn't do anything to the FW holding tank since it is empty. I would think the pump still has a little water in it. I hooked up a small ceramic heater and have it on low blowing into the area behind the UDC. Should take care of it or at least I feel better now. Thanks again for the suggestions.
These are the kind of questions that leave yourself open to ridicule for being lazy and neglecting to winterize the rig. Again, great forum.

 

[Steve.Twoknee]

Great forum and thanks for the replies. I put antifreeze in the traps and opened up the side wall of the UDC Everything looks good to the eye. I didn't do anything to the FW holding tank since it is empty. I would think the pump still has a little water in it. I hooked up a small ceramic heater and have it on low blowing into the area behind the UDC. Should take care of it or at least I feel better now. Thanks again for the suggestions.
These are the kind of questions that leave yourself open to ridicule for being lazy and neglecting to winterize the rig. Again, great forum.

Open to ridicule? While I'm pretty sure I have said on multiple occasions the the internet is the root of all evil, I'm pretty sure I was referencing FB! As far as being 'lazy', I know I have on more than one occasion put off the winterization task!
Here's to hoping everything survives winter!


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[danemayer]

These are the kind of questions that leave yourself open to ridicule for being lazy and neglecting to winterize the rig. Again, great forum.

Frank,

We're all glad you asked the question because it probably saved you a lot of aggravation in the spring. And there are probably others reading this thread who will benefit from your having asked.

 

[alwaysbusy]

We have our BH under cover presently and we drained everything including the water heater. I'm worried I didn't blow out the pipes or add antifreeze to unit with the temps getting in mid 20's for about 10 hours. Should freeze again tonight. At this point, I don't know what to do except hope the pipes don't leak. Do you think the plumbing will survive or am I in for a rude awakening? Thanks in advance.

Great forum and thanks for the replies. I put antifreeze in the traps and opened up the side wall of the UDC Everything looks good to the eye. I didn't do anything to the FW holding tank since it is empty. I would think the pump still has a little water in it. I hooked up a small ceramic heater and have it on low blowing into the area behind the UDC. Should take care of it or at least I feel better now. Thanks again for the suggestions.
These are the kind of questions that leave yourself open to ridicule for being lazy and neglecting to winterize the rig. Again, great forum.

Baker, every year I play what seems to be roulette with the freezing weather here in the northeast. We are part time and the coach sits (w/o being winterized) a couple weeks hooked up to nothing just prior to our final trip in December every year. Having played with this for many years to ensure nothing freezes, I've found the key is having day time temps above freezing when the nights are below. As long as there is this teeter totter in temps I'm good. The water lines easily survive evenings of 19 degrees with no heat on; however, the problem is when both the day time and night time temps are below freezing for a few days in a row which results in many straight hours the lines are subjected to freezing temps instead of only 8 or 10. I'm definitely chancing it sometimes as one time the lines did start to freeze and two years ago it got so cold prior to the last trip I winterized both before and after. It's risky and I'd be safer to winterize versus having to trace a water leak in a line or a fitting. Soooooo, if your lazy, I'm stupid.

 

[danemayer]

Baker, every year I play what seems to be roulette with the freezing weather here in the northeast. We are part time and the coach sits (w/o being winterized) a couple weeks hooked up to nothing just prior to our final trip in December every year. Having played with this for many years to ensure nothing freezes, I've found the key is having day time temps above freezing when the nights are below. As long as there is this teeter totter in temps I'm good. The water lines easily survive evenings of 19 degrees with no heat on; however, the problem is when both the day time and night time temps are below freezing for a few days in a row which results in many straight hours the lines are subjected to freezing temps instead of only 8 or 10. I'm definitely chancing it sometimes as one time the lines did start to freeze and two years ago it got so cold prior to the last trip I winterized both before and after. It's risky and I'd be safer to winterize versus having to trace a water leak in a line or a fitting. Soooooo, if your lazy, I'm stupid.

alwaysbusy,

You do have a point that when temps are above freezing, the RV will warm inside, especially if the sun is out. And that heat takes a while to dissipate as temps drop to 19. But you should consider the UDC inlets/valves and the water pump may not retain heat nearly as well.

 

[alwaysbusy]

alwaysbusy,

You do have a point that when temps are above freezing, the RV will warm inside, especially if the sun is out. And that heat takes a while to dissipate as temps drop to 19. But you should consider the UDC inlets/valves and the water pump may not retain heat nearly as well.

Oh yes, absolutely and I keep a close eye on the downstairs. I'm pickin up what your puttin down.

 

[JohnD]

These are the kind of questions that leave yourself open to ridicule for being lazy and neglecting to winterize the rig. Again, great forum.

Soooooo, if your lazy, I'm stupid.

Youz guyz ain't got nuthin' on me . . .

Cause I'm the President of the Procrastinators Of America Club!



I usually just blow the air out of the lines and run just a little antifreeze through the water pump (just to get the little bit of water out of it), flush the toilet with the water off so that the water in that line runs down and out of the low point drains, then pour antifreeze in the p-traps and some in the toilet bowl (to keep the seal wet).

Our outside shower is just above the rear bumper, so I use that as a low point drain as well.

Plus I do allow some antifreeze into the gray and black tanks for whatever water I couldn't get out of there.

However, this year I decided to run the antifreeze through the whole system . . . took about three gallons.

 

['Lil Guy']

alwaysbusy,

You do have a point that when temps are above freezing, the RV will warm inside, especially if the sun is out. And that heat takes a while to dissipate as temps drop to 19. But you should consider the UDC inlets/valves and the water pump may not retain heat nearly as well.

That was my thoughts before I headed to Walmart for a small heater. With that one panel pulled (4 screws) and the little heater blowing into the area behind the UDC with the pump right there just made me feel a lot better. Even then, looking at the UDC panel, I added some insulation there also.
Sure hate to go to the rallies in March only to find out I've got water leaks. Again, I feel good with what I've done and thanks again for the replies.

 

[Relayman]

A few that sometimes get missed are the black tank flush and the outside shower. Did you blow out these too?
Yes I did. im taking noooooo chances ( unless I missed sumpin else !) LOL. Thanks for bringing that to our attention. Someone out there probably did forget those two items. GASP !!! ( Hope not though).

 

[alwaysbusy]

A few that sometimes get missed are the black tank flush and the outside shower. Did you blow out these too?
Yes I did. im taking noooooo chances ( unless I missed sumpin else !) LOL. Thanks for bringing that to our attention. Someone out there probably did forget those two items. GASP !!! ( Hope not though).

The black tank flush is an interesting topic whether it "needs" blown out or winterized. By all means, it can't hurt at all to do so. However, I believe this is a self contained system with only one check valve. After flush water on tank side will drain into tank by way of gravity flow. Water on input side will drain back out input port by same. It's an open system versus closed. I saw a diagram on it and that's how I recall it. Maybe someone on here can confirm for me?