World's First Triple Axle 300C?
- Thread starter CrazyCooter
- Start date
CrazyCooter
Well-known member
If you moved the axles back 30", you would likely end up with 7k on the hitch. Thinking the front of the chassis won't the like that much. I have yet to weigh mine, but moving the axles group back 7.5" was like 2.7% of the wheelbase. 13k sprung weight, should be around 380lb added to the hitch. I have moved some of my stuff from the front cabinets back to the garage to offset that some. I'll let you know how it weighs out. I wanted to keep the hitch weight around the 3k mark as that's what the manufacturer thought was OK for the chassis.
Axle spacing is now 33". The 34" measurement you are seeing there is the hanger measurement for the fixed rocker hanger of the center axle. Tires are 29" + or-. Have 3.5" between them.
Axle spacing is nw
Axle spacing is now 33". The 34" measurement you are seeing there is the hanger measurement for the fixed rocker hanger of the center axle. Tires are 29" + or-. Have 3.5" between them.
Axle spacing is nw
mattpopp
Trouble Maker
Ok, so eye to eye on the hangers is 34". For sake of the conversation you basically only moved the rear hanger 7.5" back and work forward off of the 34" spacing. For the hardware (springs and shackles) you are using the same size as to what came on the RV stock? Reason I ask is I have the Dexter build sheet for my trailer. Ordering the correct parts will be easy referencing that. Also you said you could only get 4.25" Correct Track hangers. With that and the 2.5" tubing that is giving you a 3" lift over stock or did you also add to that as well?
I think what I am going to do is build a sub frame. With attempt to use two cross members that won't interfere with plumbing and such hanging from the belly. But I will feel more comfortable building it on the ground knowing that can true it up easier. It would also help me limit how much time the Rv has to sit on jack stands as well.
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I think what I am going to do is build a sub frame. With attempt to use two cross members that won't interfere with plumbing and such hanging from the belly. But I will feel more comfortable building it on the ground knowing that can true it up easier. It would also help me limit how much time the Rv has to sit on jack stands as well.
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CrazyCooter
Well-known member
The distance between front and rear pair is 29.5" and between the center pair is 34". This gives you 33" axle spacing and room for a fixed rocker mount for the center axle. You are correct, 4.25" hangers with 2.5" tube gives approx 3" additional height from stock. These hangers/cams are obsolete and they have a wider hanger with larger cams for more adjustment as seen on the new rigs on the lot.
If you put the cross members on the hangers, you might be able to avoid the plumbing, but honestly I think you are better off assembling under the rig. Square on the floor isn't likely square to the hitch. I moved my right side back 5/16" to get the tracking in.
The rockers are different...for 33" spacing. The shackles are standard issue from a Dexter HD kit...may as well buy the whole retro kit and be done.
CrazyCooter
Well-known member
No, but you can get the rockers, bushings, wet bolts, and shackles in a kit and save a few bucks.
CrazyCooter
Well-known member
Took the trailer out for a scale today.....
Truck was full with 100 gals fuel and dog, but no passengers.
Steer:5,360
Drive:4,600
Total:9,960
Combined with no water, fuel, food, or toys in trailer. Just clothes, misc gear, and dishes:
Truck:14,180
Trailer axles: 11,700
Total:25,880
This puts weight of the trailer at 15,920 and hitch weight at 4,220. I figured the hitch would be a little heavier with the wheelbase back a tad and my 9" shorter Morryde pinbox putting the titanium overhang farther over the actual pin location. By my WB calculations, every 1,000lb in the center of the garage takes 600lb off the hitch and it feels like it! It takes lots of air in the bags to level the truck when unloaded, but loaded 40-50psi does it.
Truck was full with 100 gals fuel and dog, but no passengers.
Steer:5,360
Drive:4,600
Total:9,960
Combined with no water, fuel, food, or toys in trailer. Just clothes, misc gear, and dishes:
Truck:14,180
Trailer axles: 11,700
Total:25,880
This puts weight of the trailer at 15,920 and hitch weight at 4,220. I figured the hitch would be a little heavier with the wheelbase back a tad and my 9" shorter Morryde pinbox putting the titanium overhang farther over the actual pin location. By my WB calculations, every 1,000lb in the center of the garage takes 600lb off the hitch and it feels like it! It takes lots of air in the bags to level the truck when unloaded, but loaded 40-50psi does it.
CrazyCooter
Well-known member
Figured I would update after I moved some cargo around to lighten the hitch up a bit. I got a Sherline Scale http://www.sherline.com/lm.htm so that I wouldn't have to keep driving to the truck scale to reweigh each time a change was made.
So far I have gotten it down to 3,150 empty and 3,450 with water full. I still have a few heavier items I can swap around/remove to get it right. I plan to remove the under chassis storage/spare tire carrier I installed and move the 2nd spare into the bed of the truck. Downsize the battery under the garage, possibly remove one of the 8D batteries, and move the little 1k generator from the front cabinet to the truck. Tire chains can be moved to the truck as well and added seasonally.
Looking to lighten the rig by 1,000lb total and get the hitch 2-300lb lighter.
Still have to load the SXS and see how that affects things too.
So far I have gotten it down to 3,150 empty and 3,450 with water full. I still have a few heavier items I can swap around/remove to get it right. I plan to remove the under chassis storage/spare tire carrier I installed and move the 2nd spare into the bed of the truck. Downsize the battery under the garage, possibly remove one of the 8D batteries, and move the little 1k generator from the front cabinet to the truck. Tire chains can be moved to the truck as well and added seasonally.
Looking to lighten the rig by 1,000lb total and get the hitch 2-300lb lighter.
Still have to load the SXS and see how that affects things too.
CrazyCooter
Well-known member
The scale would be easier to use with a standard trailer, but I just used a piece of flat plate set on top of my hitch, then the scale, and then set the pin on top of the scale.
Cjackg
Well-known member
Here is a great source for the Sherline Scale. Got mine today!
http://www.discountcampus.com/store/discounttrailerscales.htm
//heartlandowners.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=30191&d=1402609210
http://www.discountcampus.com/store/discounttrailerscales.htm
//heartlandowners.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=30191&d=1402609210
CrazyCooter
Well-known member
Show us a pic of your adapter!
Cjackg
Well-known member
Did the full routine today weighing my 3110 pinbox for the first time. Since the Sherline does not include a cap or fitting suitable for 5th wheel hitches I used their center threaded hole and bolted on a piece of Trex deck material as an adapter to help stabilize the scale while weighing the pinbox. Even so it was necessary to set up a base of blocks for the scale to keep it level and straight... This is pretty pecarious stuff and not recommended for the faint of heart... See pics below of the whole process.
And finally the first pinbox weight reading for my 3110, packed for travel but with garage empty...
And finally the first pinbox weight reading for my 3110, packed for travel but with garage empty...
Last edited:
taken
Well-known member
I still have my 2k model from when I had my TT. Guess I'll need to order the 5k one now. Kind of frightened to find out the answer after seeing Tony's weight... Ugh... Actually in looking at the link posted by Cjackg, it would appear that I can just order a replacement gauge for my existing scale so I can read to 5k. It looks like the scale itself is the same. Will call Sherline to confirm and order a new dial. Thanks for the link!
CrazyCooter
Well-known member
I'll be interested in where your weights come out too! I bet yours is closer to the 2,900lb listed spec. than mine was.
With the 7.5" the axle group moved back, the 9" shorter pin box, 8D batteries, and refer in the front cabinet.....I expected mine to be a bit heavier.
taken
Well-known member
Will find out soon Tony. I'm going to call Sherline tomorrow morning and see if my guess is correct and that the scales are the same and just the dial is different. If so, I'll order an new dial for mine and report the results. Not sure if I'll be that far off from you but sure hope so. I figure my Trail Air TriGlide hitch adds 150, got a safe and metal/wicker wardrobe in my closet, I just added a second AC in the BR, and remember that 2900 is dry with no propane or batteries and without a genset. I have full propane, two batteries, and a 5500 Onan generator... so will see.
porthole
Retired
I have been using one of these scales since buying buying the Cyclone,
Have even done "pin weight" weighing at a couple of rallies.
You have to be careful with the the trail air. Because the bottom plate moves in an arc as you load the pin, it causes the position between pin and scale to shift. And because of the speed of hydraulic landing gear over electric gear, it can be "dramatic"
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