Yet another Suburban Water Heater issue.....

I've got a problem that is getting the better of me so thought I'd reach out for some ideas if you have any.

The Scenario: The 2016 Bighorn (3750FL) was purchased new and delivered by the dealer to an RV park where my wife lives in it during the week while she's working away from home. It hasn't moved since. We have always used 110v for the water heater.

The Problem: Last week one morning, there was no hot water like there always has been. I began troubleshooting it by reading the documentation on this website and seeing what had worked for other people with similar issues. Not being skilled in the use of a multimeter, I went ahead and replaced the secondary on/off switch at the WH, the thermostat/hitemp switch and the heating element (boy, did it need it). Next weekend, I'm replacing the anode for the heck of it. It's cheap. Nothing so far has led to the 120v working yet so as to heat the water.

Today, I turned on both the 12v and 110v water heater switches in the master control panel and noticed for the first time that the light in the 120v switch is significantly dimmer than the 12v. My wife and I both remember them being the same brightness. I've attached a pic showing the two being on this morning. The camera is making the 120v switch brighter than I would say it really is. It was actually difficult to tell if it was on.

Could the very dim 120v light be indicative of a switch going bad with low or no voltage going to the WH? If so, any ideas on where to get a new switch? I have no idea where to get new switches that go in this panel. And if not, what the heck else could be problematic that I could look at?

Thanks for any help and Cheers!

Tom
 

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aatauses

Well-known member
I would check power coming into your switch. I think? power goes to that switch prior to going onto the heater. If it is low then go to fuse box and see if by chance you have a weak circuit breaker.
You should get several other responses from others who are more knowledgeable than me!!
al
 

danemayer

Well-known member
If you can find a neighbor who has a multimeter and knows how to take 120V AC readings, you can track this down in a more determinant way. It sounds like you're not getting voltage to the secondary switch.

The switch in the control panel may be carrying 12V DC to operate a relay that supplies the 120V AC to the water heater. If that's the case, the possible points of failure would be the switch, the relay, or the connection inside the junction box on the front inside corner of the water heater. Other possibilities include the 120V circuit breaker, or even the 12V DC fuse that powers the switch/relay.

I'd suggest the next thing to look at would be the 12V DC fuses to see if any are blown. If the fuse is blown, the fuse box will pass just enough power to slightly illuminate the LED in the switch.

After that, check the junction box on the front inside of the water heater. You'll probably have to take down the rear wall of the pass through basement storage to get to the water heater junction box. The reason I suggest that is that several people have had problems with the connections inside the box becoming loose.

And if you do find that neighbor with a meter, our Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide may be helpful.
 

donr827

Well-known member
Since you are not experienced in working with a multi meter you might want to have a mobile tech to come out a run down your problem.
Don
 
Thanks for the tips. I've gone through the troubleshooting guide and it's pretty useful. As far as the 12v DC fuses, I've looked at the fuse panel below the master control panel and there's nothing in there related to the water heater according to the labels. Below that is the breaker panel that has the 15A breaker for the water heater and it's clearly marked. I've toggled it a few times and it "appears" ok. It wasn't tripped or anything like that.

Is there any definitive source that would be able to say that this year/model has the 12v DC going to a junction box? Think I'll try to find a wiring diagram and see if the WH wiring inside is shown.
 

Piperflyer

Well-known member
How do I switch my Suburban water heater to use gas to heat the water and not electric? I don't see any switch that will turn my gas on or off to the heater? I do have switches to turn the electric off.
 

dlw930

Well-known member
How do I switch my Suburban water heater to use gas to heat the water and not electric? I don't see any switch that will turn my gas on or off to the heater? I do have switches to turn the electric off.

You should have a switched labeled "water heater 12v". This switch turns the propane mode on and off. The flow and ignition of propane is controlled by the 12 volt electrical system.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

danemayer

Well-known member
How do I switch my Suburban water heater to use gas to heat the water and not electric? I don't see any switch that will turn my gas on or off to the heater? I do have switches to turn the electric off.
Control panels vary, but here are 2 examples.
Control Panel Annotated.jpg
control panel alternative.JPG
 
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