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that should be the opening for the manul crank handle to open the slide out . We have a 2018 TQ327 and the opening was off center of the shaft so I ended up with another hole for the crank. Installed a small blue light w/ motion detector for a step light. Enjoy your 327

kinda like this fix. Did you have a problem with the awning trying to wind up or unwind? I will have to extend the awning a few inches(6-8) in order to remove the screws

I'm afraid that those or pop rivets would crack the exterior wall from the pressure exerted on it.

was installed at the factory one would think they would know where to mount it. But thanks for your reply

what's the cure for replacing the screws holding the awing rail to the RV, majority of mine are just spinning in the holes. Surprised it hasn't pulled away from the RV.

remove the switch cove & using a non-contact circuit tester see if there is any voltage. If there is being very careful use a multi-meter to see what voltage you have, Good luck

yep if it's wired correctly it should work then

about the same as our roof on a 2018 Torque, was just on it today giving it a bath will recoat with a roof protectant this evening or tomorrow. Keep an eye on those sealed edges for cracking or opening up to prevent water intrusion. I check mine often as it sits out year round.

you are correct in your assumption regarding switching over from A/C to LP. Mine does it all the time when we travel. To confirm the LP is running you can remove the outside cover & look inside the burn tube for a flame; normally tou will hear it also. try this for operating the unit, page 12...

Anyone stayed at Starved Rock State PArk CG in northen ILL?

don't have a Landmark but like Dave stated above these rigs are noisy when it rains of anything hits the roof. I've worn earplugs at night to sleep cause of the rain.

from the spec sheet states 1 each black & grey; if that's true will have valve for each tank

needs the 12vdc for the ignitor to light the LP gas flame

use a volt meter & check voltage where it's plugged in. Then you'll know if it's wiring or the frig.

see this from the tools tab above https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Slide_Outs/Rooms/BAL/accuslide_service-manual.pdf; page 8-9 has the slack as 1". Yours may not need adjusting

not a big fan of those above 10 amp load, other connectors out there that work better

hope you have enough spare wire to cut off those ends ; then twist the wire together before installing the new wire nuts. As a retired industrial electrician I always did that & then taped around the wires & wire nut. You are lucky there wasn't a fire!!!

not all heaters have an anode rod. If drain plug is plastic like mine then you will not have the anode rod in that heater.

yes no pump needed when on city water; TANK, fills the tank; Dry Camping is when you use the pump; Winterize is when yo uuse a short hose & sipon from a jug/pail using the pump

if the fridge is in a slide out & the oulets(non-working) are also in the slide out; check under the slide for a junction box for loose connection.

not familiar with your model, but majority of campers have a fresh water tank drain. There should be red & blue lines with shut offs close to one another both will have shut off valves. Then another line(color can vary blue or clear) with a shut off for the fresh water tank. Good luck

I know there is a Lippert event last week of Oct in Pine Mountain, GA at the RV Park there. Join the Lippert Scouts Community and post them there, never know who may want them.

are you blowing a 12dc fuse or it it tripping a breaker in the ac panel?

I'd check the roof vent making sure it's open

on my 2018 Torque TQ 327 those are the overflow hoses for the fresh water tank.

I'm wondering what was that line connected to from the factory. All of it looks to be factory installation up to the red hose & maybe the black fitting. Appears it was connected to another flexable hose/line with that white fitting.

look right on the water heater, should have three valves two open & the cross hose valve closed for normal operation

Furrion antenna systems are wireless, just need a power & ground wires to the camera. Majority of the newer ones are wired into the running light circuit. Good luck with your decision.

I went with a Tailgator antenna with the wally receiver from DISH; two reasons were a)it's portable don't have to worry about being in shady sites ,b) only few dollars more per month. Just call DISH with my location & they ping the unit & I get everything local plus same package as I have at home.

Dang it, now wishing I hadn't changed our plans. Enjoy

& if I snore to loud etc. I end up sleeping in the garage

went with a toyhauler so the Harley goes into the garage plus once all setup can travel about without breaking camp. Take your time deciding on what will work for you both & ask away on the forum. Good luck on your decision.

would help if you posted what year make & model of trailer you had.

mine all go off except the clock, what stero do you have?

Torque 327 5er it's behind rear wall in basement driver side

definitely check the battery condition & the connections

check state & local codes before spending money!!! Ask the septic pumping service they should know the rules locally.

that small amount of stray voltage shouldn't cause any issues with the heating element

just thought of something else, on my 2015 I've gotten that message without a trailer connected to the truck; have yet to figure that out.

Like JohnDar stated above check those connections, have the same problem with my 2015 Chev. Now I make sure the plug (7way & 4 flat) mounted in the bumper stays clean. Has lessen the problem