Batteries Won't Charge More than two thirds

[ksucats]

Have a recurring issue which, now with the cold weather, is resulting in less than stellar performance.

Since we received our coach this past fall I've noticed that the batteries will show full charge immediately after removing shore power or unhooking from the tow vehicle. However, within 5 minutes they have dropped to 2/3 charge. Now with the cold weather we can not retract (or extend) the slides or level-up/front gear without multiple stops to let the batteries get some charge back to them.

I have checked the circuit breakers and find nothing tripped. As I mentioned, the batteries do charge.

So the question, since the unit sat for 8 months (more or less), I imagine that the batteries were allowed to drain completely. Such is known to not be good for them so, I'm wondering if a call to Heartland is appropriate since the coach is so new, or is it a battery manufacturer issue?

Thanks.

 

[danemayer]

Have a recurring issue which, now with the cold weather, is resulting in less than stellar performance.

Since we received our coach this past fall I've noticed that the batteries will show full charge immediately after removing shore power or unhooking from the tow vehicle. However, within 5 minutes they have dropped to 2/3 charge. Now with the cold weather we can not retract (or extend) the slides or level-up/front gear without multiple stops to let the batteries get some charge back to them.

I have checked the circuit breakers and find nothing tripped. As I mentioned, the batteries do charge.

So the question, since the unit sat for 8 months (more or less), I imagine that the batteries were allowed to drain completely. Such is known to not be good for them so, I'm wondering if a call to Heartland is appropriate since the coach is so new, or is it a battery manufacturer issue?

Thanks.

I assume you're checking the charge at the control panel inside and see 3 lights rather than 4. A better check would be to use a volt meter at the battery terminals to see if you have something around 12.6 V. If the reading a few minutes after disconnecting shore power is more like 12.0 V, have your batteries checked at an auto parts store.

Also check the water level in the batteries. It's a good idea to do so monthly. If the water level drops below the top of the plates, the battery may be damaged.

Another way to get a more accurate readout is using the auto-leveling panel. Turn it ON and cycle the mode to read system voltage.

If the batteries check out with a volt meter or at the auto parts store, make sure the terminals are clean and all connections are tight, including crimps at the 12V buss bar/mini-circuit breakers near the batteries. A poor connection will reduce voltage to the hydraulic pump, causing amps to exceed the breaker rating. That will trip the auto-reset breaker between batteries and hydraulic pump.

I've attached some pictures to help you locate the buss bar and breakers. The first picture shows the buss bar/breakers covered by a red rubber boot. The second picture is with the boot pulled away.

If everything looks ok, you may just need a new 50 amp mini-circuit breaker (about $10 locally or from Amazon). Takes maybe 10 minutes to install. Sometimes the breakers get weak and trip too easily.

 

[ksucats]

Dan: Thanks - was not aware of the Level Up feature - will have to check that. Did check the batteries' water level - good. No breakers tripped. Am going to get a volt meter today (actually in Albuquerque right now and no major tools - I'm not mechanically inclined at all anymore so...). Regardless, I took the power off shore power this morning and within 20 minutes was down to one light on the inside 4-light gauge. Running heat, water pump and inverter.

 

[danemayer]

If it's dropping continuously over time, the battery is probably not getting charged. On shore power the control panel will indicate the voltage output of the Power Converter. When you disconnect shore power, after a few minutes, you'll see the battery voltage. If it's now 1 light, you're probably under 12V.

After you get the volt meter, you can use the diagnostic in our 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic Guide to help figure out what's wrong.

 

[dbbls59]

Have you checked the batteries? A dead cell will act that way.

 

[travelin2]

Have you checked the batteries? A dead cell will act that way.

Yeah. What size are they, 24, 27, ?? I'd take them out and have one of the auto parts places check them. If you have 2 batteries one might be ok but the other could be a parasite.
Had that happen to us. New batteries!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ksucats]

Sorry all - have not had a chance to work on the coach - been busy with the Mother-In-Law; 85 years young and been helping her out. Hopefully will get a chance to do some of my (our) own stuff tomorrow but being New Year's Day I doubt much will be open.

At this stage I'm just hoping that everything works enough to lift the Level-Up jacks and get us back home. May have to deal with it there.

 

[JohnD]

Sorry all - have not had a chance to work on the coach - been busy with the Mother-In-Law; 85 years young and been helping her out. Hopefully will get a chance to do some of my (our) own stuff tomorrow but being New Year's Day I doubt much will be open.

At this stage I'm just hoping that everything works enough to lift the Level-Up jacks and get us back home. May have to deal with it there.

You should be able to hook it up to your truck to run the jacks . . . or plug it in to shore power.

 

[donr827]

When I had a similar problem I charged both batteries, disconnected from everything, and measured the voltage several times a day. One battery maintained its charge while the other battery slowly lost its charge. When hooked up in the trailer the bad battery was drawing down the good battery also. This was done at home and not on the road.
Don

 

[ksucats]

Happy New Year to everyone. Thanks for all the help but it just seems to keep getting worse. Oh well, the joys of using the coach in cold weather away from home (visiting MIL -- I think I mentioned that earlier). In any case, today the water pump has failed. Started running in spurts, now won't run at all. I filled the fresh water tank and then wife took a shower - pump was cycling for some reason; I went to take my shower and managed to get done just as the water quit.

I did check the small fuse blocks (not sure what they are called); only one has a reset button on it and it was not popped.

Oh well, such is life when we have our toys.

 

[danemayer]

Happy New Year to everyone. Thanks for all the help but it just seems to keep getting worse. Oh well, the joys of using the coach in cold weather away from home (visiting MIL -- I think I mentioned that earlier). In any case, today the water pump has failed. Started running in spurts, now won't run at all. I filled the fresh water tank and then wife took a shower - pump was cycling for some reason; I went to take my shower and managed to get done just as the water quit.

I did check the small fuse blocks (not sure what they are called); only one has a reset button on it and it was not popped.

Oh well, such is life when we have our toys.

Did the pump actually stop running, or did it run without any water flow? If you're in sub-freezing weather, the water at the fresh tank drain will freeze and the ice can wick up into the tee, blocking water flow.

 

[ksucats]

Water stopped, did not hear pump running at all. Checked using the switch in the UDT and hear nothing there either - it did work yesterday from there though as I wanted to make sure I had put anderson valve back to 'Normal' properly from filling the tank. Everything worked fine until showers this morning.

Am currently at MIL house, not going to be at coach for another hour or so. Will check things then - hopefully it will work.

 

[danemayer]

Water heater is powered through a fuse in the main fuse box.

 

[ksucats]

Good evening to all. Well made the 700 plus mile trip back to Manhattan yesterday - one day drive - what a PITA. In any case the water pump is not working at all. Just quit when I was taking a shower on Friday morning -- had been 'short cycling' (but running with the same sound as our prior coaches pump that was fastened right on plywood floor. This one never sounded like that before). Would come on, then off but pressure did not seem to change. Then when I was taking my shower it just stopped. I did check the 15 amp fuse - it is good; finally out of desperation more than anything, I flipped the on-off switch several times and it came on for a an instant. Then stopped again. Makes me believe it might be the switch but I have no idea how to remove it to look behind it. I did try the outside water pump switch - it also does not work. The 'red' light on the interior switch does come on though which leads me to believe that there is power to the switch itself.

Now, as for the batteries, same thing - would not bring the landing (Level-UP) gear up unless I waited a few seconds and then would come up some. Came all the way home and batteries with coach connected to electric on the truck show 100 pct (all lights lit). As soon as I remove the umbilical cord, 3 lights. Oh, and to top it off, the left front landing gear is leaking hydraulic fluid (found that in Albuquerque). This is kind of a 'I can't believe it' story though -- there was a small 'balloon' attached to the hydraulic line that, to me at least, appeared to be purposely placed there to keep the propane tank from rubbing on the line. Well today I was chasing down the hydraulic leak and noticed that the balloon looked like a giant balloon once the air was let out. It was actually the hydraulic fluid in it. Apparently there is a leak on that line and it had distended the outer rubber insulation. I'm over here now kind of laughing about it - I sure had no idea it was not something put on the line to keep it from rubbing. Oh well, something else to get fixed.

Well back to the 8 to 5 grind tomorrow so this stuff will have to wait a bit - hopefully will get home and still have a bit of daylight.