cokecrazed007
Member
Has HL changed there set up for the 2011 year production?
CY 3010 Fresh Water Tank - Some water is inaccessible - Discussion
Mike Aplin
Well-known member
Yes, the mfg. of the holding tanks that Heartland is now using has a different tank design for the new model year. Thanks, Mike
rtataryn
Active Member
I agree. I love my Cyclone, but there should absolutely be factory solution for owners of prior units with this problem. 30+ gallons of standing, unaccessable water is no small issue. I'm glad Heartland has solved the problem on new units, but am frankly a bit amazed that owners of prior units are not given a factory solution.
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porthole
Retired
Recovered from 25-May-2010
Recovered
I am not sure of the specifics of the "new" tank design, you may want to try customer service at 877-262-8032. Thanks, Mike
rtataryn
Active Member
OK. I finally did my tank fix. First of all, a big thank you to Doug W. for his posts and photos. They really helped me a lot, even though I did it a bit different than he did. Here's how the project went. It took me about five hours, but I had a couple beers on the way. 
First I removed the underbelly cover. I cut in between the two water tanks - right between the double beam so that I'd have a solid surface to reattach it to.
Numbers correspond with pictures
1. The first pic is the aft tank - fully drained. This water level is at the level of the pump outlet line in the lower left corner of the tank - so the pump (and drain line) are sucking air at this point.
2. This is a bit further away showing both the aft tank (on the right) and the forward tank (on the left). You can see the remaining water level in both tanks.
3. This next pic is the connector line from the aft tank to the forward tank.
4. This pic is the forward tank with the connector hose going into it from the aft tank. Again, everything is fully drained, but realize that the forward tank has no drain or pump draw. It has to drain back into the aft tank in order for the pump to draw it, so this much water is always in the tank with no way to get at it.
5. The side view of the forward tank.
6. Here's what I did: I pulled the connector hose between the tanks and drained them from there - This is the first time these tanks have been drained since I bought the Cyclone - over a year ago. I measured the amount of water that was left in them at 34 gallons. Fully one-third of my combined tank capacity. I then pulled the metal strap and particle board and dropped the tanks to inspect and finish draining the last of the water.
7. I remounted the tanks and drilled a one inch hole in the center of them - at their lowest point.
8. I purchased two bulkhead blind tank fittings from USI-RV.
9. New drain fittings inserted into holes.
10. Drilled 2.5 inch holes into the center of the particle boards to accommodate the fittings - and then replaced the boards and metal straps.
11. Close up of the fitting.
12. I capped the previous line out to the pump with a 1/2 inch nylon plug.
13. I connected the two bulkhead fittings to a common T-fitting going out to the pump, and another T-fitting for a down-drain.
14. Replaced the underbelly cover with just the down-drain exposed.
Before I replaced the cover, I filled the tanks and then drained them. They drained nearly completely. Just a slight lip inside the tank of the bulkhead fittings keep a very small amount from draining - less than a quart for both tanks I would estimate. Also, no leaks at all. The system works great. I didn't fix the extreme bowing of the tanks and boards, because that is what allows the tanks to drain so well at the low spot. But I'll be sure to never drive with full tanks. These boards could very easily break under that kind of load - just like Doug's did.
First I removed the underbelly cover. I cut in between the two water tanks - right between the double beam so that I'd have a solid surface to reattach it to.
Numbers correspond with pictures
1. The first pic is the aft tank - fully drained. This water level is at the level of the pump outlet line in the lower left corner of the tank - so the pump (and drain line) are sucking air at this point.
2. This is a bit further away showing both the aft tank (on the right) and the forward tank (on the left). You can see the remaining water level in both tanks.
3. This next pic is the connector line from the aft tank to the forward tank.
4. This pic is the forward tank with the connector hose going into it from the aft tank. Again, everything is fully drained, but realize that the forward tank has no drain or pump draw. It has to drain back into the aft tank in order for the pump to draw it, so this much water is always in the tank with no way to get at it.
5. The side view of the forward tank.
6. Here's what I did: I pulled the connector hose between the tanks and drained them from there - This is the first time these tanks have been drained since I bought the Cyclone - over a year ago. I measured the amount of water that was left in them at 34 gallons. Fully one-third of my combined tank capacity. I then pulled the metal strap and particle board and dropped the tanks to inspect and finish draining the last of the water.
7. I remounted the tanks and drilled a one inch hole in the center of them - at their lowest point.
8. I purchased two bulkhead blind tank fittings from USI-RV.
9. New drain fittings inserted into holes.
10. Drilled 2.5 inch holes into the center of the particle boards to accommodate the fittings - and then replaced the boards and metal straps.
11. Close up of the fitting.
12. I capped the previous line out to the pump with a 1/2 inch nylon plug.
13. I connected the two bulkhead fittings to a common T-fitting going out to the pump, and another T-fitting for a down-drain.
14. Replaced the underbelly cover with just the down-drain exposed.
Before I replaced the cover, I filled the tanks and then drained them. They drained nearly completely. Just a slight lip inside the tank of the bulkhead fittings keep a very small amount from draining - less than a quart for both tanks I would estimate. Also, no leaks at all. The system works great. I didn't fix the extreme bowing of the tanks and boards, because that is what allows the tanks to drain so well at the low spot. But I'll be sure to never drive with full tanks. These boards could very easily break under that kind of load - just like Doug's did.
Attachments
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porthole
Retired
Nice job. Exactly the why I was contemplating doing mine. I ordered (same place) the fittings several weeks ago and plan on doing it after the the Spring Gulch rally. Should have the least amount of things going on then to interfere with fixing this issue.
I will be changing my sanitation slope issue at the same time.
And as luck will have it ( at least for me ), I managed to acquire a few different PEX fittings and some PEX tubing that should help along the way.
I will be changing my sanitation slope issue at the same time.
And as luck will have it ( at least for me
), I managed to acquire a few different PEX fittings and some PEX tubing that should help along the way.Attachments
The way you did your mod defiantly looks like a much simpler way of handling the issue. I really thought long and hard about using those fittings in the tank instead of tracking down a plastic welder to install new fittings. Now that I've had a chance to use mine, I believe that "Y"ing the 2 tanks together and having that feed the pump maybe the better way of doing it. The only issue is if by some chance the tanks are not level, what will happen if one tank is out of water first? In the end I don't think even that is an issue because if it gets that low of water the difference isn't going to make a big deal. One thing I did notice though with mine, is when the water is below the factory cross over tube, it can take 5-10 minutes if not longer for the 2 tanks to equalize in water level using the smaller tube ID. Again not big deal until your out of water<G>.
The only thing I can suggest is keeping an eye on those tank support boards so you don't end up with broken ones like I did.
Great job though. It should be good to the last drop now.
Doug
The only thing I can suggest is keeping an eye on those tank support boards so you don't end up with broken ones like I did.
Great job though. It should be good to the last drop now.
Doug
rtataryn
Active Member
Doug,
I'm sure its the best to have a plastic welder install permanent fittings, but as you said, this was much simpler. We'll see how they hold up long-term. I do think it's probably best to have the pump draw from both tanks so that there is no issue with equalization or concern about the draw tank being lower.
Good point about the tanks not being level with each other. With my set-up the aft tank is a bit higher and the pump starts to suck air from it when it is empty, while the forward tank still has some water left. But not much - less than 2 gallons. And if I need to empty that last bit, all I have to do is open the down-drain and it empties it completely.
I thought long and hard about beefing up the support boards like you did, but after looking at the situation I figured I could really take advantage of the warping low spot for drainage. If I beefed it up and flattened out the tanks I wouldn't be able to get as much water out - especially with the lip of those blind fittings. I am concerned about the weak support though, and after seeing it I'd never travel with much water in the tanks ever.
Thanks again Doug for all your help and pics on this.
Rod
Mike Aplin
Well-known member
Thank you for the detailed photos and descriptions. Take care, Mike
I agree with Rod, it was pretty tight and I did try to lift the door side myself. One thing that worried me about that is the tank would warp back flat onto the x beam. So you would have to lift that beam as well to really support the tank. All that extra work probably isn't really worth the effort either for what you will gain from it. As for the boards, I'm thinking that if you do not over fill the tank and crack the support boards all will be ok for some time to come. A couple of metal straps below the board might be fine. That way the board can bend and relieve the strain on the board if it becomes to "warped".
In the end I think Rod probably has the easiest solution that should hold up for years to come provided you don't over fill the tanks.
Doug
In the end I think Rod probably has the easiest solution that should hold up for years to come provided you don't over fill the tanks.
Doug
porthole
Retired
Started my project list yesterday by dropping the underbelly cover.
I can now see in Doug’s pictures that he also has a lot of extra fuel line for the generator hanging loose.
My support boards look good after 11 months so I will be leaving them for now. I did find odd though that the forward tank is only filled by the crossover hose, the forward tank has two vent lines and the rear tank has only one vent. The water pump only pulls from the rear tank.
All 3 vent lines are "T'd" together and from there the vent line droops down and snakes between the holding tank dump valve cables. That explains the slow venting issue.
The biggest thing I noticed is that my fresh water tank was collapsed like the pump was pulling a vacuum.
Both the bottom and top of the tank were collapsed inward about 2".
Because of this I will be installing the new fitting near the outer edges.
Also found that the forward gray water tank has enough extra piping that it goes up before it drains into the elbow. These tanks also have enough of a belly that even though completely drained I was able to get another 3+ gallons out of the tank by pushing up on it. And this was mucky water. Guess I will add the Calgon thing to the list of to-do items when I find the stuff.
I can now see in Doug’s pictures that he also has a lot of extra fuel line for the generator hanging loose.
My support boards look good after 11 months so I will be leaving them for now. I did find odd though that the forward tank is only filled by the crossover hose, the forward tank has two vent lines and the rear tank has only one vent. The water pump only pulls from the rear tank.
All 3 vent lines are "T'd" together and from there the vent line droops down and snakes between the holding tank dump valve cables. That explains the slow venting issue.
The biggest thing I noticed is that my fresh water tank was collapsed like the pump was pulling a vacuum.
Both the bottom and top of the tank were collapsed inward about 2".
Because of this I will be installing the new fitting near the outer edges.
Also found that the forward gray water tank has enough extra piping that it goes up before it drains into the elbow. These tanks also have enough of a belly that even though completely drained I was able to get another 3+ gallons out of the tank by pushing up on it. And this was mucky water. Guess I will add the Calgon thing to the list of to-do items when I find the stuff.
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