Dodge ram 2500 engine brake

[Gas20]

My Ram started to have a whistle when you let off the gas and the engine brake engaged. It is in the shop and service thought it might be a vacuum leak but all hoses and clamps have been checked and tightened but it still does it, also I have not noticed it until the engine was warm. Anyone ever had this happen or any idea as what it might be. I'm expecting to leave this coming Friday to go to Virginia.

 

[Gas20]

Found out what was wrong, Turbo was leaking underneath at a joint. Means a new turbo, thank god this one was still under warranty. This will be the third Turbo on the 2007 Ram. This sucks.

 

[TandT]

3rd turbo? Wow.
I am still on my first one on my '06, 5.9. (Knock on wood.)

Just curious, is yours a 5.9 or a 6.7? thanks, Trace

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[mzcummins]

3rd turbo, that's crazy

Do you have a egt gauge and let your turbo cool down before shutting your truck off? Sounds like your "cooking" the turbo, I drag race my 06 cummins and hit almost 1600* at the end of the 1/4 mile but always let it run for a bit to get the egt's under 400* after a pass or if I'm towing heavy and I'm still on my stock turbo.

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[Gas20]

To Teri the engine is the 6.7 Cummings, 2007 ram, you know the first year of the pollution crap, Dodge has had tons of problems with this motor.

To mzcummings I don't have a egt gauge on the truck, it is stock, I do not let it cool down later because I was told it was not nessessary, I had always let the Diesel engines cool down after driving or pulling, but not now with the newer engines is what I was told.

But now found out that the down pipe was cracked also along with the turbo leaking. I am going to try and unload this Lemmon. The second turbo had a 1 year warranty so I covered with the turbo but the down pipe is $1400.00 so I am pretty much screwed.

mzcummings where can I find a get gauge and how to install?

 

[Rrloren]

If the Dealer is asking $1400 to replace the exhaust downpipe run do not walk away from them. Find a capable exhaust shop or diesel shop and get another estimate.
I have the same truck since new and have had very few problems and am still on the original turbo at 102K miles.

 

[happyappy]

I'd be concerned about that dealer as well. Sounds like they like throwing overpriced parts at a problem.

One weak spot on the 6.7 is the rearmost connection to the EGR cooler. There was a recall to put an improved gasket in this spot. A leak at this connection can make a noise when the Exhaust Brake is creating high pressure in the block.

Before I'd spend $1,400 on a stock downpipe, I'd delete the EGR system and DPF...the biggest problems with the early 6.7 engines. Less money and far fewer problems in the long run.

 

[olcoon]

Dealerships are the worst place to get a vehicle worked on. Supposedly they are on top of the game because they "attend" schools for their particular brand, but they are always the most expensive. When I got our new Dodge, it didn't come with the cord for the engine heater. They didn't have one in stock & would have to order one, I think it was around $70.00. Went to Cummins, they had it in stock & the price was $30.00. Like was said above, I'd go somewhere else!

 

[mzcummins]

Someone might have told you that because the 6.7 has a water cooled turbo but you should still let it cool down.

$1400 is way too much for a down pipe, you can get a full 5" turbo back exhaust kit for around $400, sounds like the dealer is trying to get you to pay for the turbo.

I like the Isspro ev2 gauges, the match very well, dieselmanor.com has great install pics, I get a lot of my stuff from Wally at FTE Diesel 216-496-3600 including my exhaust and gauges, where about are you? Maybe I could help you find a reputable diesel shop






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[goingwest]

The stock down pipe for the 6.7 also has a catalytic convertor built in it so 1400 is not a bad price.

 

[szewczyk_john]

Geno's garage is another great place to find parts and tools specific to the cummins powered ram trucks. They ship fast as well.

 

[Gas20]

To mzcummings I am in Vero Beach Florida and today I'm going to check on a couple of places to take it to. I think the first thing is to install a EGT gauge. I tried the engine brake not hooked to the fifth wheel and did not hear any whistle, so I don't know if the dealer is just trying to recoupe some of their money or not. I was told at first it was going to be $1800.00 , and the part alone was $1400.00, then he said later that the pipe and labor was going to be $1400.00. So I think that the dealer is trying to pull some crap. I did talk to the mechanic and he said that it would not hurt to drive the truck with little or no use of the engine brake, like that will do me a lot of good.

 

[Rrloren]

Gas20, when I first bought my truck it had to go to the dealer several times because the Check Engine light would turn on regularly. They eventually said that Dodge was recommending always running with the exhaust brake on. I've done that for the last 4 yrs. and haven't had a problem, it became automatic to reach down and push the button on every time I start the truck.
So far as your downpipe is concerned you can buy a new one on the internet that eliminates the Cat Convertor for under $300 and I'm sure you can find a stock one that keeps the Convertor for even less. You could even try a local junk yard.

PS. If you want more to watch than just EGT's you may want to consider the Edge CTS guage, it monitors many parameters at your choice, plus it can tell you when your in regeneration. Plugs right into the OBD port and is easy to install other than you do have to put the pyrometer probe in the exhauast manifold pre-turbo.

 

[Invizatu]

"They eventually said that Dodge was recommending always running with the exhaust brake on. I've done that for the last 4 yrs. and haven't had a problem, it became automatic to reach down and push the button on every time I start the truck. "

Then why have a switch/button? I'm glad that works for you, but it makes no sense technically. There is nothing in my manual about leaving it on, in fact it says it works most efficiently when used in tandem with tow mode. (which it does)

 

[Rrloren]

Then why have a switch/button? I'm glad that works for you, but it makes no sense technically. There is nothing in my manual about leaving it on, in fact it says it works most efficiently when used in tandem with tow mode. (which it does)



The problem existed with the early 6.7L engines like 2007.5 and 08. I'm sure had they known the issue they would have wired the switch so that it's default was ON ! The manual's say nothing about turning it on. they began advising that after numerous turbo cleanings and replacements on the early models. We have also had several ECM reprograms to address the issues associated with the regen systems on these earlier models.

 

[Gas20]

I was also advised to use it all the time which I did then the other day it started to whistle when I went to brake. I also drive around town in fifth gear just to keep the RPM's up. When I took it in for the whistling noise is when they found the Turbo leaking. It bothers me that this Turbo was just put in, in Feb. this year.

Any how I found a shop here in Vero Beach that the owner knows my oldest son and he is going to look at it next week when I return from Virginia. I did't know they worked on diesels but they do along with gas powered vehicles.

 

[szewczyk_john]

I have a 2006 and had the factory exhaust brake added as part of the purchase agreement. About 2 months ago I had to replace the vacuum pump that works the exhaust brake. Cost 300 from Geno's and the dealer price was over 400. The pump was making a pitch squeal that might sound like a whistle to some. A mechanic I was talking to suggested that you can disconnect one of the hoses and allow oil to get sucked up into the pump. He suggested doing this at every other oil change to allow just a small amount of oil to get sucked up into the pump.

 

[Bobby A]

I had the same issue with my 07, had it to the dealership many times the first year, flashes, turbos, cleaning turbos, ect. But I've been trouble free for a few years now. They did tell me to avoid frequent city driving and to NEVER leave my truck idle. I do shut it off after driving with no cool down time.

 

[MdMike]

The problem with the engine brake CEL is the fact that the sensor, screwed into the Radiator hose fitting on the top has a 3/8 inch stainless steel line that monitors the engine pressure for the Engine Brake. This allows soot to build up in the line as well as the sensor and housing.

If you look you will see that the line comes off of the housing, makes a sharp turn, runs parallel to the block, turns sharply again and screws into the exhaust manifold.

I have an 08 with a 6.7L and my CEL came on every time I cleared it after about 30 miles for two weeks.

I disconnected the line at both ends and sprayed about a half can of carb cleaner thru from one end to the other until it came out clear. I then, with the line disconnected at the sensor housing used a small drill bit and turning it with my finger cleared a blockage of soot from the entry hole.Removing the sensor I also cleaned the bowl in the housing with the car cleaner. I also sprayed some into the sensor opening in the bottom of the sensor, and used a dental pic to clean the bottom side of the sensor and to make sure that the hole was fully opened.

I reassembled the unti, reset the CEL and have had onbly an occasional issue, usually when I am towing my Elkridge 5th wheel long distances (Like from Md to Fl) and I let the engine cool down, reset the code and it is ok. The CEL has come on twice in the last two years and it is when towing under high temps to Fl, but the soot clears itself now.

I now also leave the engine brake on ALL of the time to keep the soot from building up and I also allow the engine to idle for a minute or two before shut down to allow it to cool.

The truck now has over 112K miles and is running like a top.

A good source to check for issues and how to correct them is the Dodge Cummins Diesel forum: http://www.cumminsforum.com/

 

[mattpopp]

The reason Dodge recommends leaving the Exhaust Brake on is because it helps keep the actuator shaft and veins clean of soot. Dodge found that after time the soot bakes on so tightly that the actuator could not over come the soot. Causing it to fail due to not having the full range of motion. Late 07 Dodge added a cleaning port to these turbos to help dissolve the soot rather then replacing them so often.

The water cooled portion of this turbo is for the electronics in it rather then for cooling the bearing housing.

Somebody said the issue is with the 6.7 engine. No that is absolutely incorrect. The issue is with the poorly design emission after treatment system. Using the EGR to control 100% of the NOx is for starters a horrible idea. It creates a daisy chain of problems.

The Op's turbo also did not fail from letting the engine idle before shutting it down. While its a good idea if you just dragged raced your pickup into your driveway. But 9.99999 times out 10 times by time you pull into where ever you are going the Turbo is already cooled down enough that everything is fine and you won't bake the oil.


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