Leaking grey tank valve

Hey everyone. After being screwed around by the dealer on a warrantable item I’m planning on tacking this one my self. We’ve got a 2015 heartland sundance 3600qb. My main grey valve appears to be leaking. I personally haven’t replaced one and don’t feel it’s too hard however I want to reach out as this trailer has the full under belly on her. Any tips tricks advise or anything you can tell me. I’ve pulled wrenches professionally on heavy equipment for many years. Never done too much on this automotive stuff.

thank you in advanced.
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
If it’s just a small leak, add a Valterra Screw On Valve at the end of the sewer line.


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rhodies1

Well-known member
Usually you will not have to replace the valve.
Most issues with leaking valves are caused by the cable sticking and not closing the blade on the valve or crud buildup on the blade of the valve and not seating properly.
First thing to do is run your unit up on a couple of planks on the valve discharge side to allow any remaining grey water to run away from the valve assembly to the other side of the tank,,,yes there is still some of that crap in your tank even after draining.
If you have an enclosed under belly,drop enough of the Coroplast to locate your tanks and valves.

Have someone pull open and close the valve cable in question so you know which thank to work on..
There are 4 bolts and nuts holding the valve in the pipe/ tank assembly..they are 7/16 th nuts..remove nuts and bolts, pull pipe back away from valve and take out valve?...There will be 2 rubber o rings on valve. Do Not loose them and make sure they go back into assembly.

Once out ,you can loosen up set screw on cable at valve, pull cable out and check to see if cable moves freely, clean blade assembly and apply grease to the steel shaft...this shaft slides the blade assembly and goes through a rubber sleeve, this gets dry and the assembly valve sticks, grease it and move it back and forth by hand until it moves freely.
If it’s the cable that’s sticking you can remove from compartment and soak cable and cable sleeve in transmission fluid for a few minutes to lube

Re- install and check operation of movement before putting coroplast back into place..

This process is more time consuming than difficult.
Good Luck.
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
The valve may not need replaced. I still had same issue after dealer “adjusted” the valve on our #2 grey tank. My valve now closes easily with two fingers after some investigation.
The cable going to the valve was way too long and had too many arcs from the handle to the valve. I rerouted the cable and removed 32” of excess.
My #1 tank is exhibiting the same symptoms so it’s on my to do list
I too have the second valtera valve. It’s good to have regardless


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Usually you will not have to replace the valve.
Most issues with leaking valves are caused by the cable sticking and not closing the blade on the valve or crud buildup on the blade of the valve and not seating properly.
First thing to do is run your unit up on a couple of planks on the valve discharge side to allow any remaining grey water to run away from the valve assembly to the other side of the tank,,,yes there is still some of that crap in your tank even after draining.
If you have an enclosed under belly,drop enough of the Coroplast to locate your tanks and valves.

Have someone pull open and close the valve cable in question so you know which thank to work on..
There are 4 bolts and nuts holding the valve in the pipe/ tank assembly..they are 7/16 th nuts..remove nuts and bolts, pull pipe back away from valve and take out valve?...There will be 2 rubber o rings on valve. Do Not loose them and make sure they go back into assembly.

Once out ,you can loosen up set screw on cable at valve, pull cable out and check to see if cable moves freely, clean blade assembly and apply grease to the steel shaft...this shaft slides the blade assembly and goes through a rubber sleeve, this gets dry and the assembly valve sticks, grease it and move it back and forth by hand until it moves freely.
If it’s the cable that’s sticking you can remove from compartment and soak cable and cable sleeve in transmission fluid for a few minutes to lube

Re- install and check operation of movement before putting coroplast back into place..

This process is more time consuming than difficult.
Good Luck.


seeing as you sound like you know your sheet is the valve a 1.5” or 3” for the grey. Or will it depend on the unit. It’s the main grey on my system.
 

rhodies1

Well-known member
On my Bighorn the grey valves are 1.5. Hard to say if this is the norm during build. You’ll know when you isolate the one giving you issues..
Yes I've been there where you are now..mine was the black tank .....so alooooooot messier.

- - - Updated - - -

Also as noted by another Heartlander. check the routing of the cable..sometimes the factory staff use what’s available and the cable is too long.

On my black tank the valve was installed with the blade pulling open facing the rear of the unit.When I re- installed,I put the valve assembly facing forward and was able to go from 10 feet of cable to 5 feet. Now when I pull the handle which is located up front I’m pulling the valve open forward.
 
On my Bighorn the grey valves are 1.5. Hard to say if this is the norm during build. You’ll know when you isolate the one giving you issues..
Yes I've been there where you are now..mine was the black tank .....so alooooooot messier.

- - - Updated - - -

Also as noted by another Heartlander. check the routing of the cable..sometimes the factory staff use what’s available and the cable is too long.

On my black tank the valve was installed with the blade pulling open facing the rear of the unit.When I re- installed,I put the valve assembly facing forward and was able to go from 10 feet of cable to 5 feet. Now when I pull the handle which is located up front I’m pulling the valve open forward.


trust me. I was greatful that it was the grey water that was leaking. I cannot tell you. I had a sheet hose burst before or was rotted some how. So when this leaked out I was smiling. Kinda.
 

CDN

B and B
$3.00 gallon of inexpensive vegetable oil is your easiest way to fix it. I have done this and it does work.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
For one, the gray water really stinks. Did I mention it really stinks. Only did this once without treating the gray water tank with Happy Camper prior to changing the valve seals. Tilt your fifth wheel toward the drain and let it empty. Then tilt it the other way. Otherwise you will get the drip drip drip until you get it back together.
 
For one, the gray water really stinks. Did I mention it really stinks. Only did this once without treating the gray water tank with Happy Camper prior to changing the valve seals. Tilt your fifth wheel toward the drain and let it empty. Then tilt it the other way. Otherwise you will get the drip drip drip until you get it back together.


grey valves are normally the 1.5” valve correct. I have muppets for a dealer. Not taking my licences in anything as anything or assisting me what so ever.
 
For one, the gray water really stinks. Did I mention it really stinks. Only did this once without treating the gray water tank with Happy Camper prior to changing the valve seals. Tilt your fifth wheel toward the drain and let it empty. Then tilt it the other way. Otherwise you will get the drip drip drip until you get it back together.


im bringing mine out of storage this weekend. What would you treat the tank with? Or just do the tilt part. I’m tempted to tilt mine at the dump station first one way then when it’s at the shop TILt the other way.
 

KyleC

Well-known member
Following, I have a leak on my black tank valve. When I take the cap off it's usually got a few oz of "build up".

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boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
Following, I have a leak on my black tank valve. When I take the cap off it's usually got a few oz of "build up".

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Add a Valletta screw on valve to your outlet. This will resolve your problem.


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