pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
There's a scary thought. I did so much stupid stuff in the first 46 that the next 46 are going to be one heck of a ride.
New Haul and Tow RV transporter truck build..... Season II
- Thread starter pmmjarrett
- Start date
There's a scary thought. I did so much stupid stuff in the first 46 that the next 46 are going to be one heck of a ride.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Managed to salvage the poorly cut plate and can use it so it's not structurally compromised.
Completed the fabrication for the left drop frame mount. Got it cut out corectly this time, welded the flange on inside and out, marked the existing holes in the frame with spray paint, drilled the holes, did some finish grinding to knock off any sharp edges and have it sitting in place with bolts. Bolts havn't been tightened yet.
//heartlandowners.org/images/misc/pencil.png
Completed the fabrication for the left drop frame mount. Got it cut out corectly this time, welded the flange on inside and out, marked the existing holes in the frame with spray paint, drilled the holes, did some finish grinding to knock off any sharp edges and have it sitting in place with bolts. Bolts havn't been tightened yet.
//heartlandowners.org/images/misc/pencil.png
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Yesterday I did a little salvage yard shopping and came home with a 12' section of frame off of a Ford F600 for the drop frame beavertail and scored a couple nearly new Bridgestone R280 steer tires for $150 each. They still have 15/32" tread... New R280 tires have 18/32" tread and are about $400 EACH!!!
Today I finished the fabrication of the right drop frame bracket and started on the fender deck crossmembers.
Today I finished the fabrication of the right drop frame bracket and started on the fender deck crossmembers.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Oh No. It's impossible to find a job working for somebody else that lets me work on my terms...... Work 5 minutes and take a 10 minute break, work an hour and watch a movie with my eyes closed........... work a week and take 2 weeks off.....
When I get tired of hauling campers I'm going to work on the railroad....... My railroad.... in "N" scale
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
OK, I'm back working on it today. Sorry but I just ain't welding in an open metal shed surrounded by trees with water following the trucks frame and making the shop floor wet in a thunderstorm.
The drop frame mounting plates are fully installed with the shock and air bag mounts bolted on. Spent this afternoon cutting steel for the crossmembers and fenders. Fender clearance is tight, that's just the way it has to be with this type of truck, these pics are with the suspension sitting on the bump stops. I will be cutting a little more radius for the tires to even it up a bit, It's OK as is with a finger width clearance to the sidewall, just want to make it look a wee bit nicer.
Tomorrow will be mostly welding everything up.
The drop frame mounting plates are fully installed with the shock and air bag mounts bolted on. Spent this afternoon cutting steel for the crossmembers and fenders. Fender clearance is tight, that's just the way it has to be with this type of truck, these pics are with the suspension sitting on the bump stops. I will be cutting a little more radius for the tires to even it up a bit, It's OK as is with a finger width clearance to the sidewall, just want to make it look a wee bit nicer.
Tomorrow will be mostly welding everything up.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Got a late afternoon start today because I was busy for several hours wrestling with my 55 lb and 75 lb lab mix puppies giving them a harcut and a bath and of course I ended up completely trashing the bathroom and giving myself a bath fully clothed in the process. Hey once you're completely soaked from the neck down you might as well climb in the tub to hold them from constantly jumping out and finish the job.
Finished mounting and welding up the crossmembers for the center channel and fenders today. Tomorrow I should have the sheetmetal welded on the fenders, fabricate the winch mount and hopefully get the upper portion of the center channel drilled and mounted.
//heartlandowners.org/images/misc/pencil.png
Finished mounting and welding up the crossmembers for the center channel and fenders today. Tomorrow I should have the sheetmetal welded on the fenders, fabricate the winch mount and hopefully get the upper portion of the center channel drilled and mounted.
//heartlandowners.org/images/misc/pencil.png
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Today I got the toolbox mounted with "Buyers" brackets. Was able to use mostly existing holes to mount the brackets with left over 1/2" grade 8 bolts. The totes I picked up at Walmart to organize the toolbox fit nicely.
Started the fabrication of the winch cable pulley from a snatch block. It won't be welded on until after the center channel is mounted. The winch and cable will be offset 4-1/2" to the left from dead center. this allows me to get a nice strait pull hooking up to the trailer like I do. The winch will be mounted between the frame rails, just above the new section of driveshaft, about 4' - 5' back from the sheave.
I've used this brand snatch block from tractor supply before and they work great exept when the snap ring comes off, the pully goes flying and the trailer free rolls backwards off the truck fast enough to destroy the winch mount when the cable finally catches it. Fortunatly I didn't damage the trailer BOTH times that happened. This is why I am using a 1" grade 8 bolt with a locknut. That never failed on me since I went that route with the last one.
P.S. My last 4" sheave that went flying out at the speed of light is somewhere in Goshen Indiana and I never was able to find it. $20 reward if found.
The angle reinforcing the sheave on the first crossmember is also a reinforcement for the center channel. This first crossmember takes a lot of stress and the welds often cracked here on the center channel on the last truck so this should cure that problem.
Started the fabrication of the winch cable pulley from a snatch block. It won't be welded on until after the center channel is mounted. The winch and cable will be offset 4-1/2" to the left from dead center. this allows me to get a nice strait pull hooking up to the trailer like I do. The winch will be mounted between the frame rails, just above the new section of driveshaft, about 4' - 5' back from the sheave.
I've used this brand snatch block from tractor supply before and they work great exept when the snap ring comes off, the pully goes flying and the trailer free rolls backwards off the truck fast enough to destroy the winch mount when the cable finally catches it. Fortunatly I didn't damage the trailer BOTH times that happened. This is why I am using a 1" grade 8 bolt with a locknut. That never failed on me since I went that route with the last one.
P.S. My last 4" sheave that went flying out at the speed of light is somewhere in Goshen Indiana and I never was able to find it. $20 reward if found.
The angle reinforcing the sheave on the first crossmember is also a reinforcement for the center channel. This first crossmember takes a lot of stress and the welds often cracked here on the center channel on the last truck so this should cure that problem.
SouthernNights
Past South Carolina Chapter Leader
The last picture that pin almost looks like a brake shoe pin for air brakes on a truck.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Yep, exept those pins don't have snap rings. WOW, It's been 13 years since I've torn into a set of air brakes.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
The forward portion of the upper deck is done. Winch mount is fabricated and bolted in, the center channel is drilled and welded to the crossmembers and a bracket is welded in for a 7 pin plug to provide power to operate the optional electric tounge jacks that I'm seeing a lot of on small entry level trailers this year. This is one of the upgrades from the old truck due to lessons learned.
It's a royal pain to operate these by hand without a battery hooked up and these things kill a small breakaway battery fast. I don't waant to carry a battery for each trailer or move batteries from trailer to trailer. Every extra step you do loading or unloading adds up to a lot of wasted time. I want to load both trailers, be completely hooked up and be pulling out of the yard in 25 - 30 minutes and be able to unload both in 15 - 20 minutes.
The only fabrication left to do to the truck before the drop frame is fabricated is to weld the sheetmetal to the top of the fenders, install a couple crossmembers that tie into the drop frame and ........ Some top secret stuff I'm still figuring out exactly how I want to do it.
It's a royal pain to operate these by hand without a battery hooked up and these things kill a small breakaway battery fast. I don't waant to carry a battery for each trailer or move batteries from trailer to trailer. Every extra step you do loading or unloading adds up to a lot of wasted time. I want to load both trailers, be completely hooked up and be pulling out of the yard in 25 - 30 minutes and be able to unload both in 15 - 20 minutes.
The only fabrication left to do to the truck before the drop frame is fabricated is to weld the sheetmetal to the top of the fenders, install a couple crossmembers that tie into the drop frame and ........ Some top secret stuff I'm still figuring out exactly how I want to do it.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Thanks Dew. Mike, I'm shooting for 2nd week in June.
That is if I don't burn the barn down before then. We got really lucky today. Mama had left a brand new 100' extension cord she bought outside on a chair beside the shop and it shorted out and went up in flames while I was in the barn painting. It was plugged into the wall outlet but nothing else on the other end and wasn't under load.... I have no idea what caused it but I could hear it sizzling.
We could have lost everything.
Got a couple coats of Rustoleum "Safety Red" on the forward portion of the new body. Now I can permanently mount the toolbox and winch, start the wiring needed for the campers and start tying up the air lines and electrical.
Can ya see me now!!! Boy this paint is bright. Next person that hits my truck and says they didn't see it better run for their life because I'm just gonna lose it and beat the stupid out of them...... Even though Ron White says "You can't fix stupid" doesn't mean I can't try really hard.
That is if I don't burn the barn down before then. We got really lucky today. Mama had left a brand new 100' extension cord she bought outside on a chair beside the shop and it shorted out and went up in flames while I was in the barn painting. It was plugged into the wall outlet but nothing else on the other end and wasn't under load.... I have no idea what caused it but I could hear it sizzling.
We could have lost everything.
Got a couple coats of Rustoleum "Safety Red" on the forward portion of the new body. Now I can permanently mount the toolbox and winch, start the wiring needed for the campers and start tying up the air lines and electrical.
Can ya see me now!!! Boy this paint is bright. Next person that hits my truck and says they didn't see it better run for their life because I'm just gonna lose it and beat the stupid out of them...... Even though Ron White says "You can't fix stupid" doesn't mean I can't try really hard.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Winch, line and block are installed and the winch is wired and operational. It's the Milemarker SI9500 9500 lb winch I scavenged off the old Ford truck after it was wrecked. The toolbox is also off the old truck and is now bolted in.
Put the air bags on the suspension and installed an adjustable leveling valve to replace the electronic Wabco suspension leveling system that was in the truck. I started routing the air lines but I need to pick up a few fittings tomorrow to finish this up.
I removed the switch for the sliding fifth wheel to install a Velvac suspension dump valve that fits this hole. Tore the dash apart a lot further than I wanted too getting ready to route the air line for the pilot signal from the switch. The air ride leveling system is completely air operated, no solenoid valves or other electical or electronic stuff here now... Keeping it as simple and trouble free as possible.
Put the air bags on the suspension and installed an adjustable leveling valve to replace the electronic Wabco suspension leveling system that was in the truck. I started routing the air lines but I need to pick up a few fittings tomorrow to finish this up.
I removed the switch for the sliding fifth wheel to install a Velvac suspension dump valve that fits this hole. Tore the dash apart a lot further than I wanted too getting ready to route the air line for the pilot signal from the switch. The air ride leveling system is completely air operated, no solenoid valves or other electical or electronic stuff here now... Keeping it as simple and trouble free as possible.
beardedone
Beardedone
Very nice work so far. I bet you be glad to get on the road and making money with that rig. By the way, one of the reasons that cord may have started on fire is because it was left coiled up while plugged in. It builds up excessive heat which may have been the culprit. Test it out by leaving a cord plugged in and coiled up next to one that is laid out straight. There is a heat difference. Best to un-plug inactive cords.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Even though Ron White says "You can't fix stupid" doesn't mean I can't try really hard.
Maybe you could be like Bill Engvall and give them a sign?
LOL ........
Should I use all five fingersFender sheetmetal is welded on and the first crossmembers for the drop frame are installed and gusseted. These 2 crossmembers are also drilled for mudflaps.
Finished removing extra air lines and wrapped up the air line install for the air ride suspension. The dump switch is installed in the dash and the supply line is jumped to the differential lock. This is the standard way to install these air switches and they have ports built in to install jumpers between switches.
The Big CAT fired right up after sitting for about a month without being started. Tested the brakes and suspension dump and all is well. Need to put the dash back together and put a 1/4" union in the air line for the differential lock. It's Murphy's law that you will always be one little piece short to finish a job on a weekend when nothing is open.
Tomorrow is a big day. The truck will be pulled out and I'll move the new section of frame into the shop and get started on the drop frame that will carry the trailers.
Recovered from 25-May-2010
Recovered
She's now officially a 272" wheelbase single axle straight truck.
Pulled her out of the shop and got the drop frame put into place, then backed her back into the shop and put the truck on blocks to level the frame and then leveled and aligned the drop frame section. The alignment of the 2 frames was done with a couple pieces of string..... Hey, it works, a tight string doesn't lie.
I knew I would have to cut and remove a crossmember because of the 3/8" difference in outside frame width but I was surprised at how much twist and pure misalignment the new section of truck frame had when I cut the crossmember.
Got a couple welds on the new section to keep eveything lined up until I finish welding and bolting it in.
Pulled her out of the shop and got the drop frame put into place, then backed her back into the shop and put the truck on blocks to level the frame and then leveled and aligned the drop frame section. The alignment of the 2 frames was done with a couple pieces of string..... Hey, it works, a tight string doesn't lie.
I knew I would have to cut and remove a crossmember because of the 3/8" difference in outside frame width but I was surprised at how much twist and pure misalignment the new section of truck frame had when I cut the crossmember.
Got a couple welds on the new section to keep eveything lined up until I finish welding and bolting it in.
Recovered from 25-May-2010
Recovered
Looks like you are in overdrive now!
