Cool - thanks for the update.
Traveling with a Residential Refrigerator
- Thread starter klindgren
- Start date
Cool - thanks for the update.
OEFVET
Well-known member
Residential Refrigerator Movement during Travel
Can anyone advise if their residential refrigerator moves during travel? Mine seems to move in and out and side to side a few inches. I can easy fix it by installing a stopper on the floor in front of the front legs/wheels. I want to eliminate the movement so the side doesn't rub. Also I feel that if it continues to move it could cause the ice maker water line to loosen or develop a leak.
Anyone with a residential fridge experience any similar movement?
Can anyone advise if their residential refrigerator moves during travel? Mine seems to move in and out and side to side a few inches. I can easy fix it by installing a stopper on the floor in front of the front legs/wheels. I want to eliminate the movement so the side doesn't rub. Also I feel that if it continues to move it could cause the ice maker water line to loosen or develop a leak.
Anyone with a residential fridge experience any similar movement?
Re: Residential Refrigerator Movement during Travel
OEFVET, Our BH has a residential frig. It is secured to the floor of the slideout with a large screw through a bracket on each side of the frig behind the bottom grill. The screw is at an angle as to not let it hang below the bottom of the slide floor which would wreck the kitchen floor. You will have to look hard to find the brackets with the screw hole. Our frig is a Frigidaire.
OEFVET, Our BH has a residential frig. It is secured to the floor of the slideout with a large screw through a bracket on each side of the frig behind the bottom grill. The screw is at an angle as to not let it hang below the bottom of the slide floor which would wreck the kitchen floor. You will have to look hard to find the brackets with the screw hole. Our frig is a Frigidaire.
OEFVET
Well-known member
After BLHFUN advised of the top hold down I checked and in the top rear there is s bracket the length of the refrigerator with four screws securing it to the wall. All four screws either pulled out or were not attached correctly. Nothing observed to secure the fridge on the bottom.
I'm going to reattach the bracket on the top and add a bracket in the front on the bottom. This will hold it from anymore movement. Thank you to all with comments and help.
I'm going to reattach the bracket on the top and add a bracket in the front on the bottom. This will hold it from anymore movement. Thank you to all with comments and help.
Hello,
I am hoping someone can help us. We have a new 2015 BH. This past week we took it for our first long road trip. The batteries were fully charged and the fridge was fully cooled when we pulled out, but after two hours of driving I noticed that we had dropped to 1/3 battery power. The fridge continued to cool as we drove the truck, but at the end of the day, after our last fill up (approx 10 hrs of driving), I noticed that the Fridge had shut off. At this point it would start back up, but immediately click off again and there was a beeping coming from the storage where the batteries are stored. We had approx 2hrs to our destination so we just headed out. By the time we reached our destination the batteries we so weak that they could hardly put out the slide although they still showed 1/3 charge.
With our propane fridge we would always spend the night on the road parking at Walmart, but with this new Fridge I don't see how that is going to be possible. Does anyone have any experience with this type of fridge and how you have been able to cope with this while traveling. One of the reasons we bought this coach was for the fridge, I am starting to regret this decision. Help please!
I am hoping someone can help us. We have a new 2015 BH. This past week we took it for our first long road trip. The batteries were fully charged and the fridge was fully cooled when we pulled out, but after two hours of driving I noticed that we had dropped to 1/3 battery power. The fridge continued to cool as we drove the truck, but at the end of the day, after our last fill up (approx 10 hrs of driving), I noticed that the Fridge had shut off. At this point it would start back up, but immediately click off again and there was a beeping coming from the storage where the batteries are stored. We had approx 2hrs to our destination so we just headed out. By the time we reached our destination the batteries we so weak that they could hardly put out the slide although they still showed 1/3 charge.
With our propane fridge we would always spend the night on the road parking at Walmart, but with this new Fridge I don't see how that is going to be possible. Does anyone have any experience with this type of fridge and how you have been able to cope with this while traveling. One of the reasons we bought this coach was for the fridge, I am starting to regret this decision. Help please!
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi bettya,
From prior posts, I think most people have no problem towing 8 hours. In fact, if your truck is providing power through the 7-pin connector, the batteries shouldn't be run down when you arrive.
Although boon docking is not really intended with a residential refrigerator, others have managed an overnight stop without power.
If you have the YETI package, make sure it's off along with the water heater and any other 12V devices. Check the seals on the fridge by dragging a dollar bill through with the door closed. There should be drag on the bill. Also keep an eye on the fridge to see if the compressor ever stops. If for some reason the compressor runs continuously, that would draw the batteries down.
scottyb
Well-known member
Sounds like the truck is not providing any charge at all. The truck should be able to provide enough power for the fridge while on the road. Your SOC (state of charge) should be equal to or higher than when you departed. My Chevy did not have the charge wire activated, but the new Ford did. I would check out the charge pin on the 7-way plug as Dan suggested. You might also put your fridge on Energysaver if it has it, to keep it from trying to defrost, and turn off the ice maker.
bettya,
When traveling with the residential frig in our 2015 BH when it had the original 2 batteries from the factory. We were able to travel probably 8 hours without the battery drain you are having. Now it was not in 90 to 100 degree weather which is possible to cause more demand on the frig cooling.
I ran a frig check a couple days ago with my solar install with a different battery arrangement and I used 68 Amp Hours for a 13 hour period from very late afternoon until the next morning. So this usage was without very much solar charging. Most of the Amps Hours used was for the frig. The other usage was for the phantom loads in the coach system.
If your batteries were in good shape. I don't think they should have been drained to 1/3 at the end of 2 hours. I might suggest checking all those cable connections on the buss bar in the front compartment. Those cables sometimes have poor connectors. Also check the ground cable to the chassis behind the batteries. Check to make sure the battery cables have a good connection at the batteries and at the through the battery box connection lugs. If the Pos and Neg cables are not connected diagonally across the two batteries, do so. This helps distribute the load between the two batteries. These are all basic suggestions.
Naturally there are numerous other things that can cause problems with the batteries. Is the water level up. Did they go dead and freeze up during the winter or sit for a long period dead. Did you get good new batteries from the dealer. Also remember batteries can get drained if not disconnected when the rig sits for long periods. You would be surprised how much those phantom loads in the system use when just sitting there, they can drain your batteries leading to premature battery failure. I was running a 5 amp hours phantom load. When the disconnects were shut off there was a .5 amp hour drain. I can see where that was probably some of my solar stuff and plus or minus computations here and there. The safest way to protect the batteries when the rig is sitting for long periods unattended is to disconnect the Negative cable from the battery.
Then there is that always present question, is there a problem with the inverter for the frig or the frig itself. Did it shut down due to a problem with the inverter. When you said your batteries were down to a 1/3. Have you checked the voltage at the batteries themselves? The voltage read at the inverter meter for the Xantrex Pro 1000 is not always that accurate. I do realize your frig shut down. Was the inverter shut down also?
My feeling is to be real suspicious of the condition those batteries.
On Edit: The 5 AH phantom load mentioned above is extreme and there was probably another reason for the reading. But it is not all that uncommon for the phantom load to hover at or a little below 1 AH. As you can see over a few days there is a lot of drain.
When traveling with the residential frig in our 2015 BH when it had the original 2 batteries from the factory. We were able to travel probably 8 hours without the battery drain you are having. Now it was not in 90 to 100 degree weather which is possible to cause more demand on the frig cooling.
I ran a frig check a couple days ago with my solar install with a different battery arrangement and I used 68 Amp Hours for a 13 hour period from very late afternoon until the next morning. So this usage was without very much solar charging. Most of the Amps Hours used was for the frig. The other usage was for the phantom loads in the coach system.
If your batteries were in good shape. I don't think they should have been drained to 1/3 at the end of 2 hours. I might suggest checking all those cable connections on the buss bar in the front compartment. Those cables sometimes have poor connectors. Also check the ground cable to the chassis behind the batteries. Check to make sure the battery cables have a good connection at the batteries and at the through the battery box connection lugs. If the Pos and Neg cables are not connected diagonally across the two batteries, do so. This helps distribute the load between the two batteries. These are all basic suggestions.
Naturally there are numerous other things that can cause problems with the batteries. Is the water level up. Did they go dead and freeze up during the winter or sit for a long period dead. Did you get good new batteries from the dealer. Also remember batteries can get drained if not disconnected when the rig sits for long periods. You would be surprised how much those phantom loads in the system use when just sitting there, they can drain your batteries leading to premature battery failure. I was running a 5 amp hours phantom load. When the disconnects were shut off there was a .5 amp hour drain. I can see where that was probably some of my solar stuff and plus or minus computations here and there. The safest way to protect the batteries when the rig is sitting for long periods unattended is to disconnect the Negative cable from the battery.
Then there is that always present question, is there a problem with the inverter for the frig or the frig itself. Did it shut down due to a problem with the inverter. When you said your batteries were down to a 1/3. Have you checked the voltage at the batteries themselves? The voltage read at the inverter meter for the Xantrex Pro 1000 is not always that accurate. I do realize your frig shut down. Was the inverter shut down also?
My feeling is to be real suspicious of the condition those batteries.
On Edit: The 5 AH phantom load mentioned above is extreme and there was probably another reason for the reading. But it is not all that uncommon for the phantom load to hover at or a little below 1 AH. As you can see over a few days there is a lot of drain.
Dan,
Perhaps I was not clear as I should have been. Here is a drawing posted by Oregon_Camper that gives a better picture of what I was suggesting. The cables going from the batteries are connected in a diagonal fashion to distribute the load more evenly for the two batteries. Several new rigs I have run into recently have had these load cables connected to one battery. This diagonal method is used for more multiple battery arrangements also.
Perhaps I was not clear as I should have been. Here is a drawing posted by Oregon_Camper that gives a better picture of what I was suggesting. The cables going from the batteries are connected in a diagonal fashion to distribute the load more evenly for the two batteries. Several new rigs I have run into recently have had these load cables connected to one battery. This diagonal method is used for more multiple battery arrangements also.
danemayer
Well-known member
Dan,
Perhaps I was not clear as I should have been. Here is a drawing posted by Oregon_Camper that gives a better picture of what I was suggesting. The cables going from the batteries are connected in a diagonal fashion to distribute the load more evenly for the two batteries. Several new rigs I have run into recently have had these load cables connected to one battery. This diagonal method is used for more multiple battery arrangements also.
Thanks for the diagram.
Thank you to everyone who has replied with helpful info.
When we were traveling we did not have the ice maker on. We don't have a YETI package, not even sure what is in that one? The only thing running while we were driving was the fridge and the air sensors (gas and smoke that are always running when the battery is connected).
I know my truck is providing a small charge, at least, to the batteries as I had to start it up to help me get the slides to open. Without the truck running, nothing would move. We have a Ford F250. I did read on some other threads that trucks can only provide a small charge to the batteries. I'm not sure about this, but it seems to be true in my case.
We took the batteries out today and had them checked at O'Riely. They said that they are good. They are Interstate batteries and not Trojans as others have stated are very good. Would the Trojans perform any better if the fridge is really pulling the batteries down and my truck is only providing a small charge?
Our two batteries were connected properly as diagrammed by Brazos. Next step will be for us to check all the cable connections as suggested. There are so many wires in there that it's a bit intimidating. We have the Magnum Energy Pure Sine Wave Inverter installed, but there is nothing on it that shows how this is working (or not working). Is there another charging unit that I should be looking for too?
Quick questions...
1. Would 4 batteries help? How do you add two more batteries (what is the connection setup for them)?
2. Should we invest in a battery meter to determine what is really going on with the batteries? Is this easy to install?
3. Would solar panel(s) help? What are the items needed to go solar? Is it fairly easy to install yourself? My husband is very handy, but we've never owner a rig like this one and would not want to mess the wiring up.
We are cost conscious, and these rigs aren't cheap. We are not yet retired or full timing, but we would like to have the peace of mind that we can run the fridge overnight if necessary. However, we will be retiring in the not too distant future, so we may want to consider investing in solar at some point, perhaps sooner rather than later if this is the only solution, outside of always stopping at a park to ensure we have shore power.
When we were traveling we did not have the ice maker on. We don't have a YETI package, not even sure what is in that one? The only thing running while we were driving was the fridge and the air sensors (gas and smoke that are always running when the battery is connected).
I know my truck is providing a small charge, at least, to the batteries as I had to start it up to help me get the slides to open. Without the truck running, nothing would move. We have a Ford F250. I did read on some other threads that trucks can only provide a small charge to the batteries. I'm not sure about this, but it seems to be true in my case.
We took the batteries out today and had them checked at O'Riely. They said that they are good. They are Interstate batteries and not Trojans as others have stated are very good. Would the Trojans perform any better if the fridge is really pulling the batteries down and my truck is only providing a small charge?
Our two batteries were connected properly as diagrammed by Brazos. Next step will be for us to check all the cable connections as suggested. There are so many wires in there that it's a bit intimidating. We have the Magnum Energy Pure Sine Wave Inverter installed, but there is nothing on it that shows how this is working (or not working). Is there another charging unit that I should be looking for too?
Quick questions...
1. Would 4 batteries help? How do you add two more batteries (what is the connection setup for them)?
2. Should we invest in a battery meter to determine what is really going on with the batteries? Is this easy to install?
3. Would solar panel(s) help? What are the items needed to go solar? Is it fairly easy to install yourself? My husband is very handy, but we've never owner a rig like this one and would not want to mess the wiring up.
We are cost conscious, and these rigs aren't cheap. We are not yet retired or full timing, but we would like to have the peace of mind that we can run the fridge overnight if necessary. However, we will be retiring in the not too distant future, so we may want to consider investing in solar at some point, perhaps sooner rather than later if this is the only solution, outside of always stopping at a park to ensure we have shore power.
danemayer
Well-known member
4 batteries and/or solar would certainly be helpful for overnight stops without shore power. But you should find out why you're depleting the existing battery setup before you augment.
The refrigerator's compressor, like any home unit, should cycle on and off - more off than on.
The refrigerator's compressor, like any home unit, should cycle on and off - more off than on.
RoadJunkie
Well-known member
You could install a meter to measure the current drawn from the batteries. This would allow you to selectively power on/off loads and ensure you don't have a phantom load.
I was considering the residential fridge, but with solar, inverter, special bank of batteries, generator, etc., it seems like the trailer has become a life support system for the refrigerator! Too many variables, for me, at this time.
I was considering the residential fridge, but with solar, inverter, special bank of batteries, generator, etc., it seems like the trailer has become a life support system for the refrigerator! Too many variables, for me, at this time.
bettya,
Interstate batteries are good batteries. I used 4 6 volt U2200s for 5 years and they were still going strong when I traded them in. Not sure what kind of test O'Riley did to check the batteries. Since you said the frig worked just fine on shore power then things point to the batteries or the inverter. Since the batteries depleted to 1/3 in 2 hours it is like they are not holding a charge. If there is a load draining them to 1/3 in 2 hours this load or loads would have to be a lot of draw on those batteries if they are taking a full charge. Bad batteries have symptoms like not holding a proper charge under load. Otherwise they deplete at a fast rate. If the inverter is bad and shuts down this would not explain the batteries depleting to 1/3 in 2 hours. You have a 2015 BH. Our 2015 BH came with an Xantrex inverter and the batteries were a no name brand. I guess they install what is on hand at the time. From what I have read the Xantrex Pro 1000 has been a good inverter. Our batteries and inverter worked just fine and had no problems running the frig. I have another Xantrex 2000 watt inverter that is over 5 years old and it has been flawless. I can not speak for the smaller Magnum inverter used for the frig. The larger Magnum inverters have a good reputation. Like RoadJunkie mentioned if you could measure the draw on the batteries you could determine if it was normal. You can always add a Kill A Watt meter to the frig to monitor the actual usage for the frig. Most folks don't have either of these meters readily available.
You asked about connections for four batteries.
The inner connecting cables between 4 6 volt batteries and 4 12 volt batteries differ. Below is a diagram for each.
As a note if you have two bad batteries it would not be good to connect two more new batteries with them. The two new batteries would soon be in the same condition as the old batteries. Also it is usually an accepted practice to not add new batteries to a bank of batteries that are a few months old. Say 6 months old or so. Not an exact length of time in this area.
Interstate batteries are good batteries. I used 4 6 volt U2200s for 5 years and they were still going strong when I traded them in. Not sure what kind of test O'Riley did to check the batteries. Since you said the frig worked just fine on shore power then things point to the batteries or the inverter. Since the batteries depleted to 1/3 in 2 hours it is like they are not holding a charge. If there is a load draining them to 1/3 in 2 hours this load or loads would have to be a lot of draw on those batteries if they are taking a full charge. Bad batteries have symptoms like not holding a proper charge under load. Otherwise they deplete at a fast rate. If the inverter is bad and shuts down this would not explain the batteries depleting to 1/3 in 2 hours. You have a 2015 BH. Our 2015 BH came with an Xantrex inverter and the batteries were a no name brand. I guess they install what is on hand at the time. From what I have read the Xantrex Pro 1000 has been a good inverter. Our batteries and inverter worked just fine and had no problems running the frig. I have another Xantrex 2000 watt inverter that is over 5 years old and it has been flawless. I can not speak for the smaller Magnum inverter used for the frig. The larger Magnum inverters have a good reputation. Like RoadJunkie mentioned if you could measure the draw on the batteries you could determine if it was normal. You can always add a Kill A Watt meter to the frig to monitor the actual usage for the frig. Most folks don't have either of these meters readily available.
You asked about connections for four batteries.
The inner connecting cables between 4 6 volt batteries and 4 12 volt batteries differ. Below is a diagram for each.
As a note if you have two bad batteries it would not be good to connect two more new batteries with them. The two new batteries would soon be in the same condition as the old batteries. Also it is usually an accepted practice to not add new batteries to a bank of batteries that are a few months old. Say 6 months old or so. Not an exact length of time in this area.
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