winterizing

J

Jim_1899

Guest
I have been looking at air compressors that will build up at least 60 to 70 lbs of pressure in the water lines so that I can blow them out. I want to get one that is powerful but if possible portable. I really need some input on what size compressor I should buy. Thanks, Jim
 
Last edited:

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Jim;
As a matter of interest, I would recommend not going over 45 psi when blowing you lines. You may get surges of water that can cause ruptures and failures at connectors if you try 70 psi. It will act like a hammer hitting some of the connectors. I know from past experience.

John
 
J

Jim_1899

Guest
hose to city water hook up and hot water heater drain valve

The attached pictures is the my hose to put air pressurize the tanks, and the other is a pvc drain for the hot water heater with a open and shut valve. The hot water drain will allow me to blow out the hot water heater. While at a dealer I ask if I could take pictures of what they used to winterize so I could use their system. Now I just need a compressor.
 
Last edited:

trdeal

Past North Carolina Chapter Leader
does the hot water drain screw up into the pop off valve on the waterheater?

/

/
 
J

Jim_1899

Guest
Terry,

It screws into the hole where the anode rod is, then the hot water tank can be blown empty.

Jim
 

phranc

Well-known member
Jim Yeah I'm with JP , but somewhat more conservative. I might suggest about 30 lbs.. I have a sears compressor ,red , stands upright and has a carry handle on top, about 24 in tall .. It has a variable setting for the pressure w/ a guage.Paid about $100 for it.. I set it for about 25# and attach the air hose to the fitting that goes in the city water inlet.
It's the volume that counts most (CFM), not the pressure. Although you do not need a lot of cubic feet per minuite(CFM) , nor much pressure..
 

trdeal

Past North Carolina Chapter Leader
Jim_1899 said:
Terry,

It screws into the hole where the anode rod is, then the hot water tank can be blown empty.

Jim
Thanks. I understand now.
 

tdharley

Well-known member
I have a similar system but I just screw it into my city water fill & it does all the lines.

I also set my regulator on my air compressor, so there is no need for a gauge.

If you look on your T&p valve on your hot water heater it will be marked with a relief pressure. I go 10lbs. less than the relief valve set point.
 
J

Jim_1899

Guest
New Compressor

I just got back from Sears with a new compresser, it does have a gauge and I will try it out after camping over the Thanksgiving weekend. Connecting it to the city water is the only connection that I will make to pressurize the system. Thanks for everyones input I will just bring it up to 45 lbs, and you might have saved me a big repair bill.

The white drain is what I will connect to the hot water tank. The valve that I will open to drain is at the end of the pvc drain which is at the bottom of the tank. I will also drain all the water facets inside and outside too.

Your right about the second gauge but with the air compresser in the truck away from where I am working it won't hurt to see when the pressure is at 45lbs.

The more I learn the more questions it seems like I have. While at Sears I went to Borders book store to look for a RV repair book but did not find one.

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.
Jim
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Jim;

Make sure you depressurize the system before you pull the anode rod out of the hot water heater. It will shoot hot water about 40 feet if you don't. :>)

John
 

trdeal

Past North Carolina Chapter Leader
The first time I took my anode rod out, I forget to let the pressure off.Boy am I glad I was not standing directly in front of the rod. I would have had a hole in me where I did not want a hole in me. The rod shot out of the heater like a bullet out of a gun.:eek:
 

Loco

Well-known member
I see alot of folks from up north with rigs tallking about winterizing their rigs. Just for the folks down south. We only put antifreeze in the pee traps. We like to use compressed air and blow out All lines in our rigs.Thats what I do I works fine for down here in GA. I run my 12 volt pump till it is dry and unhook the lines to it. I have a pressure regulator made up and set at 40 psi that hooks up to my city water inlet and I go through and open all of my sinks (Hot & cold) one at a time letting the air blow till it has no water coming out. So far it works great. I drain my Water heater and leave my anode out. I made a open face plug with a sceen on it to keep bugs out, but allow the tank to get air to dry out good.I leave this plug in all winter. If we use the rig over the winter I put the anode back in. Than do it all again when we get finished. I just do not like that anifreeze. So I will take the time to clear all my lines of water with air.
 
J

Jim_1899

Guest
I winterized today with Air

Today I use my new air compressor that I got for my birthday to winterize the BH. This was the first time that I used air instead of using the anti freeze and I have to say it went smooth and did the job fine.

The tube with the shut off valve that I screwed into the hot water tank in place of the anrod worked perfect. I had released the presure and then took out the anrod plug and let it drain completly. Then I screwed in the rod (that I had posted last week, made from pvc)with the valve shut and let the pressure go up to 45lbs of pressure and then opened the valve. Although the water had run out, the water on the bottome of the tank shot out in a mist.

Winter camping is great for deer hunters, my son has shot 5, and I have got 2 a buck and a doe. We just keep two and have shared the harvest with those who like and can use some extra food.
 

trdeal

Past North Carolina Chapter Leader
Jim 1899,
Just read your pm to me. Great job on your winterization.:cool:
Terry
 

Uncle Rog

Well-known member
California Winterizing Techniques

Howdy, here in the golden state winterizing can be tedious. We have to get out blankets, socks and even long sleeve shirts in order to resupply before heading out. Re filling the 1" propane bottles for the Mr Heater, and remembering firewood can also be tedious. Having to close the windows at night makes it very difficult to hear the waves and surf. I guess it could be worse....................
 

Uncle Rog

Well-known member
PHRANC, I couldn't help it. The midwest / east coast is socked in with blizzards, and I am going golfing tomorrow at a course next to an Rv park in Palm Springs. We will BBQ in the afternoon. You folks out in the heartland keep the wood fires burning, be careful out there!..........
 

Timperly

Member
Big Horn Hot Water Anode

Well, thanks to the help of all of you in this thread, I completed my first winterizing. It turned out much easier that my Class A.

I pulled the HW Anode and it is pretty bad looking. Where can I buy a replacement?

I also stuck my finger in the Anode Hole and felt debris in the Heater. Is this normal? I have blown out the HW with 50lbs of air but it is still in there.

Jon
 

tdharley

Well-known member
There is probably a lot of sediment in your tank. I also had alot. That tells me that the anode rod is doing its job of having the minerals attack it instead of the tank.

I rigged up a peice of 1/4" copper that comes to a U shaped bend in the end to flush out all the sediment.I bought the plastic one that CW sells and did not like it. Also CW sells the anode rods.
 
J

Jim_1899

Guest
Today its 18 degrees with a wind chill of 2 here in St Charles Misssouri. I guess this is the real test to see if I winterized my RV properly.
 
Top