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Re: Something new . . . I dont believe that is a crack. It looks like the hole was cut too big for the window, and they used caulk to fill the gap. What I believe we are seeing, is the caulk seperating from the edge of the opening in the fiberglass.

They are Powder Coated clear to keep them from tarnishing and corroding. That is corrosion that you are seeing. The powder coat has been nicked and allowed water to get underneath it, allowing the wheel to corrode.

Running on propane, and with proper maintenance, you could easily see 20,000+ hours.

No, that is total max watts. I run an apartment fridge in my work trailer every day off a 750 watt invertor, also 3 Dewalt battery chargers and the 700 watt microwave occasionaly. Been running this setup for better than 12 years.

WIndows are moving around in the opening, tightening may reduce it, but large windows won't flex with the coach as the wall flex.

Most refridgerators will pull less than 700 watts, our big fridge in our kitchen pulls 630 watts. You can purchase a 750-1000 watt invertor for less than $50 and would be easier to rig up for travel than trying to run a generator.

Rear kitchens are known for rough riding, every bump is magnified from being to far behind the suspension. This is the one reason I won't own one, the other is for weight distribution, kitchens are very heavy by the time they are equipped and stocked.

In our Landmark, I had 2 open spaces in the breaker box, I added 4 dedicated circuits to various places. One to the kitchen cabinet for the coffee maker, one next to the fridge for a space heater, one in the basement for a space heater, and one to the front compartment to run an air compressor...

Also, is your exhaust coming out straight out from the bumper or out the side?? If it is exiting straight out, it is in the low pressure area between the TV and trailer. Like said above, it could be entering the cabin vents at the rear of the vehicle. Running fresh air into the cabin will...

With the landing gear fully retracted, check the fluid level in your resevoir. Sounds like you may be getting air in the system foaming the oil from a low level in the resevoir.

I installed a gas generator in our rig. I carry a 6 gallon steel boat tank with us when we travel for the occasional stop or break done. It will last 12-14 hours. When I know we are going to boondock, Nascar race, I have a custom built 24 gallon tank I mount to my tool box, 2 bolts, that we...

Comfirm you did not get a cord that is mis wired rom the get go, I have had one where the brakes and power where swapped in the plug. Also, did you disconnect the battery and have shore power disconnected?? You could of easily tripped a breaker.

We have a 75 gallon transfer tank, giving me around 110 gallons total. That equates to 900-1100 mile range depending on terrain. I don't have air bags and do not plan on installing them. I have had 3 trucks with this tank and trailer, and never had air bags or feel like I needed them. I...

Most likely just purchased it used, and expects it to be as new off the show room floor.

Unfortunately, if it is a nest keeping the blower from spinning, you will have to remove the furnace and disassemble it to remove the nest.

If the wasp built it's nest near the blower wheel, it would keep it from spinning. If it isn't spinning and blowing air, the sail switch would not indicate air flow telling the computer to start the igniter.

The problem with the furnace is unrelated to the other issues, the A/C and fan work, the thermostat gets its power from the furnace to operate. The furnace will most likely have a wasp nest in it, not letting the blower spool up.

Why are you plugging in the 20 amp GFIC outlet and not the 30 amp?

First, adjust them. New brakes need to be adjusted several times to get max performance.

Insulation is not the issue, actually can make it worse by keeping heat in. Bad/loose connections cause the ends to over heat and burn, exactly like you pictures indicate.

You didn't mention what tow vehicle you have, GM and some model year Fords require an module to make the factory controler compatible with the brake pump. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T4845900.html Titan BrakeRite SD Adapter for Ford/Chevy Integral Brake Controllers...

Lawn mower, threw a rock, window shattered but did not fall in or out, when door opened, incomming air blew it out. Don't ask me how I know.

The connections are/were loose.

The spots you have are most likely sap, not rust. Look for a cleaner that removes sap.

Factory-installed, in-cab brake controllers on 2006.5 - 2012 Ford and 2006.5 - current Chevy trucks and SUVs are designed for use with electric trailer brakes. This adapter allows the electric-over-hydraulic BrakeRite EHB actuating system to properly communicate with the controller while also...

Up until a couple of years ago, Ford does need it.

Did you get the brake module for the brake pump?? GM and Ford require one to get proper operation from the intergrated controller.

I replaced one last year, it cost me $130 from my electrical warehouse.

You will have to have one custom made to fit.

Also check your state's laws on double towing. Most state do not allow double towing on a single ball, must be a fifth wheel to double tow.

All road debris makes its way to the curb side, so the first curb tire is all ways running over it first.

What ever fixture you install, you will need to convert it to 12v or figure a way to get 110v to it.

We have this equalizer with a shear spring in it from Mor-Ryde http://www.morryde.com/products/89-lre4000-re-suspension-system?return=%2Fproduct-category%2F4-suspension

You are missing the point, this is a used unit with no guarantee as to what comes with it. The dealer is not obligated to make items that may or may not have been included when purchased new, it is a used unit.

Is there any air movement from the vents? If not, it is froze up. Turn it to fan only until you get air movement. Run the fan on high to prevent it in the future.

WIll also cause the part of the bearing not submersed in oil to rust if setting very long.

Per the Titan instructions, pull the break away cable.

Only bleed from the TOP bleeder!! DO NOT try to use the bottom one. These calipers are used on both sides, thus flipping them to get proper orientation. Air rises to the top, you will get very little, if any air out of the bottm.

How long has it been on?? It needs to be on for 24 hours before using it Did he let it cool down before loading it?? Did he fill with a bunch of warm items??

I would look for a bent leg. They move the units with a fork lift, chances are they drug it or let it roll.