Not sure what this is

Just leaving for dinner and noticed this hose draining. Haven't ever noticed it draining before, any ideas what it is or what would cause it to leak?

Thanks,
Cheers.
20180627_172007.jpg
 
I do have a washer running but it's a ventless. I am not sure what the Andersen thing is, I am hooked to city water. There is another hose on the other side that looks the same.

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After some research yes I believe I do have an Anderson Udc valve.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I do have a washer running but it's a ventless. I am not sure what the Andersen thing is, I am hooked to city water. There is another hose on the other side that looks the same.

- - - Updated - - -

After some research yes I believe I do have an Anderson Udc valve.
Washing machines should have a drain pan under the machine to catch leaking water. The pan has a hose that drains out the bottom. Check around the machine.

Trailers with the 4-way Anderson Valve have fresh tank overflow drains. They usually come through the frame near the axles and terminate in a 90 degree pex fitting.

Some trailers have low point drains for hot and cold water lines. If the drain valve is open, you could pour a lot of water on the ground.
 

LBR

Well-known member
I do have a washer running but it's a ventless. I am not sure what the Andersen thing is, I am hooked to city water. There is another hose on the other side that looks the same.

- - - Updated - - -

After some research yes I believe I do have an Anderson Udc valve.
Both hoses may be your fresh water tank overflows....the O-ring in your Anderson 4 way valve may be leaking (torn), therefore leaking city water into your fresh water tank, it's gets full, and thereby your seeing the overflow water.
 
Both hoses may be your fresh water tank overflows....the O-ring in your Anderson 4 way valve may be leaking (torn), therefore leaking city water into your fresh water tank, it's gets full, and thereby your seeing the overflow water.

So what is the best way to tell if it's the valve? I can get to it easy enough.
 

LBR

Well-known member
So what is the best way to tell if it's the valve? I can get to it easy enough.
1) shut off city water, turn valve to normal use, turn on your water pump, and use it for a day.

2) did the water quit coming out that tube?

3) if yes, then turn the valve back to city use, turn city water back on and shut pump back off.

4) now, monitor that tube from then on and see if it starts leaking again.

5) if it does, it is most likely the Anderson valve needs an O-ring. Less likely, it could be a leaking check valve in the water pump also.

6) keep us posted on your findings.
 
Turned off the city and ran the pump for a few minutes and the water stopped dripping. I work the next two days, so not gonna be able to check much. I'll have to figure it out on Saturday. Thanks for all the help.
Cheers
 

CoveredWagon

Well-known member
Any ideas where to purchase the valve rebuild kit.

http://www.fitzilla.com/Store/page188.html

hereit is $40 including shipping. 10 minute job. Just did it Tuesday. If you want to be sure you could remove the cartridge and see what condition the seals are in. If you go to Andersen

http://andersonbrass.com/rv_4_function_fill_station.php

and go to the bottom of the page there is a video on how to remove/replace the valve.
 
ordered mine from Robo-fit, already have an update that I should have it on Monday. I was able to pull the two side lines off the back of the Anderson valve, turned it to city and both are leaking, a fair amount also. The problem happened about a day after I flipped the valve to fill the tank about halfway, I do this while we are stationary just in case. so I'm sure I ruined things when I twisted the valve with the water on. Thanks for all the help.

Cheers.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
First time for us was the Anderson valve. The second time was the water pump check valve. Ether one will do the same. If it is the Anderson valve, then you will be good to go. Otherwise you can add a check valve in line with the water pump.
 
So I am just using my pump and the now full water tank, but believe there is an issue there as well. My water pump keeps cycling off/on. So it primes well, I have great water pressure when I turn on any faucet which is great. The problem is when all the faucets are closed the pump turns off, then after a few seconds, it cycles on for a second or two, then turns off again. I have gone through and turned on every faucet to get air out, I have checked everywhere I can think for leaks, but cannot find the source of the problem. I did notice that the backside of the anderson valve sounds like water is having a hard time running through it when I was out trying to troubleshoot the pump. Could a broken valve cause the pulsing of the water pump? I am kind of at a loss. Thanks

Cheers
 

danemayer

Well-known member
So I am just using my pump and the now full water tank, but believe there is an issue there as well. My water pump keeps cycling off/on. So it primes well, I have great water pressure when I turn on any faucet which is great. The problem is when all the faucets are closed the pump turns off, then after a few seconds, it cycles on for a second or two, then turns off again. I have gone through and turned on every faucet to get air out, I have checked everywhere I can think for leaks, but cannot find the source of the problem. I did notice that the backside of the anderson valve sounds like water is having a hard time running through it when I was out trying to troubleshoot the pump. Could a broken valve cause the pulsing of the water pump? I am kind of at a loss. Thanks

Cheers
When you have the pump ON and you close the faucets, the pump continues pumping until its pressure switch hits the cutoff value. But after that, if water leaks backward through the pump, toward the fresh tank, the pressure switch opens and the pump tries to re-pressurize.

It could also be from the Anderson Valve leaks. After you change the cartridge in the Anderson Valve, it the pump still has this problem, the check valve inside the pump is stuck partially open. You'll need to add a check-valve on the suction side of the pump. See the Fresh Tank Fills by Itself User Guide for details.
 
Another snag I didn't even think about. My pump and everything is hooked up with poly braided nylon, not PEX. Dont think I can use a sharkbite fitting with this. Any other suggestions?
 

CoveredWagon

Well-known member
Another snag I didn't even think about. My pump and everything is hooked up with poly braided nylon, not PEX. Dont think I can use a sharkbite fitting with this. Any other suggestions?

Any kind of check valve and a little hardware store plumbing as long as you get it on the inlet side of the pump and after the Anderson valve.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
The braided poly probably connects to PEX somewhere nearby.

And there are stiffeners that are included with some press-on fittings to help them work with different types of tubing. The stiffener goes inside the poly so the press-on fitting can make a good fit. I haven't tried them myself yet, but I think that's what they're for.
 
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