Question for residential fridge owners

OldTanker

Active Member
That's the position it has taken with the collapse of the forward edge of the slide. It is as far back as I can move it into the slot but the front "feet" of the fridge rest on that shelf of the slide. Since that corner dropped down, it tends to have the fridge tilt just a hair forward. Being full timers we are more than 1800 miles from the selling dealer and after many years of experience, know we will get very little help from non selling dealers in getting it fixed with any dispatch. Even if the shelf is repaired I still have to find some means to fix the unit in place without much of any room to work with.

Got itshoved back as far as possible and pulled off the kick guard on front. I saw that it's on rollers of course. I got a screw between one roller and the floor another partially in a tab close to the floor but that one is questionable. In the mean time I whittled some small wedges and glued them to the floor in contact with the fridge to hopefully stop it from rolling forward. No way I can pull the unit and mount straps since the island blocks the fridge and it would have to be out to find some place to anchor them.
 
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OldTanker

Active Member
Resurrecting this thread with new developments. The wedges mad didn't work for long at all. The front shelf has separated completely from the slide. We have it set aside out of the way so we can travel. Today I saw that we have a water leak and it has to be coming from the supply line to the icemaker. Does anyone have any idea if there is a shut off vale in that line and where it is? I can't shutoff the water to the entire unit over this and still live in the trailer.
 

BLHFUN

Well-known member
My shut off valve is located under my Sink. Not sure on your model, but I suspect you have a shut off valve in the sink area
 

Bones

Well-known member
Ok. I read a little bit into this. What does the whole area of your refrigerator slide look like? Can you get access to the top of the fridge if so remove what you need to to gain access. If you have access consider raising the fridge slightly with new plywood under the fridge and redoing the wood work above. if that is not possible you will need to remove the lower air vent from the fridge have someone push the top of the fridge to force it up a little bit. next shove wedges under the frame of the fridge near the rollers or where you can get structure. Measure that distance and make blocks and place them in that area and then remove the wheels to the fridge. this will transfer the weight of the fridge to the slide floor only and not the decorative face board. Now you should be able to reattach the face board and no weight should be on it. Next take regular home depot 90 degree brackets and screw them into the wall and top of the fridge to help keep it in place.

How deep is your slide? how deep is your refrigerator? I don't think your fridge is all the way back.
 

OldTanker

Active Member
My shut off valve is located under my Sink. Not sure on your model, but I suspect you have a shut off valve in the sink area

I wouldn't have thought that would be the case but you were spot on. We have a center island and the fridge is in the slide. I would never have thought they would route a water line like that. Thank you very much. I still have to trace the leak but at least I stopped the water supply to it.
 

DaveTyler

Well-known member
Have commented about this before but can't remember where. Ice make line from fridge goes under cabinet, under stove, and cheap plastic line goes out with the propane supply line under slide out to a coupling/valve. White in color. What I did is to move out the fridge as fas as possible, get someone skinny back there and change the line to a stainless braided line from Lowes or Home Depot, a 10 footer. Start from bottom and go up under cabinet with propane line, be sure to seal with Spray Foam when done to seal the hole. You can use wire ties to to support under slide. What I wanted to do is to replace also the line that goes from the island in the kitchen, a valve here, and it goes underneath the trailer out the the coupling/valve previously mentioned. At this time you could also add another water filter under the sink. Use another stainless steel line. Almost take two people to pull on line to see if it is free underneath. When I called Heartland they were kinda helpful and would have sent me the water line but it is cheap and not very good. They did send me a new valve though. Any questions or if I can be of help let me know. Almost "been there, done that". Dave
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
With all the problems I read about concerning the icemaker (leakage and winterizing), when I installed my residential I did not connect the ice maker. Instead I buy one 10 lb. bag of ice which lasts two to three weeks.
 

Bones

Well-known member
With all the problems I read about concerning the icemaker (leakage and winterizing), when I installed my residential I did not connect the ice maker. Instead I buy one 10 lb. bag of ice which lasts two to three weeks.
I agree this seems to be an ongoing problem in the RV industry. It may simply be do to the cheep plastic hose and it getting pinched when the refrigerator moves. My in-laws had two floods do to this issue and theirs is an SOB.
 

rsg1963

Member
Water leak on ours as well. Nice new 2016 unit and we can't use our water dispenser or ice maker. Super.
The dealer has had the unit for 4 out of 5 months of ownership and this issue was raised immediately before delivery, still no fix. Very hard to maintain confidence in the dealer or Heartland at this point.
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
Water leak on ours as well. Nice new 2016 unit and we can't use our water dispenser or ice maker. Super.
The dealer has had the unit for 4 out of 5 months of ownership and this issue was raised immediately before delivery, still no fix. Very hard to maintain confidence in the dealer or Heartland at this point.

I'm not sure why anyone would want to use their ice maker/water dispenser to begin with due to questionable water quality at RV parks. Well water can be the worst. I use a whole-house filter system along with a ceramic filter (RV water filter store) for drinking water that even removes E. coli. I've experience dirt coming in from the frost free faucets due to the way they were installed. These faucets, along with the dirt that surrounds them, are often located next to the sewer dump and guess what RV'ers often do--rinse their sewer lines right next to the faucet or sewage often spills next to the dump area. The Camco filters are really ineffective because they only filter up to 100 microns.
 

IronJ

Well-known member
Why would we NOT want to use the ice maker?..I used to make ice from my own on board water which went through a camco evo premium filter (which is 5 microns kdf/ gac)then through an on the go portable water softner....it was pretty good ice IMHO. ..obviously not really a setup to filter non potable water, but most faucets I ever used had chlorinated water to begin with...

I now have a sterilight triple can uv(5mic-1mic-carbon block) filter....and a sodium chloride based softner.....then an ADDITIONAL under sink mounted filter for drinking only... (the sink supply line also supplies the fridge)


Well water CAN be horrible...but where I live there ain't much worse than what our city gives us!! Lol


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
Why would we NOT want to use the ice maker?..I used to make ice from my own on board water which went through a camco evo premium filter (which is 5 microns kdf/ gac)then through an on the go portable water softner....it was pretty good ice IMHO. ..obviously not really a setup to filter non potable water, but most faucets I ever used had chlorinated water to begin with...

I now have a sterilight triple can uv(5mic-1mic-carbon block) filter....and a sodium chloride based softner.....then an ADDITIONAL under sink mounted filter for drinking only... (the sink supply line also supplies the fridge)


Well water CAN be horrible...but where I live there ain't much worse than what our city gives us!! Lol


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

Nice setup.
 

TxCowboy

Well-known member
I'm not sure why anyone would want to use their ice maker/water dispenser to begin with due to questionable water quality at RV parks. Well water can be the worst. I use a whole-house filter system along with a ceramic filter (RV water filter store) for drinking water that even removes E. coli. I've experience dirt coming in from the frost free faucets due to the way they were installed. These faucets, along with the dirt that surrounds them, are often located next to the sewer dump and guess what RV'ers often do--rinse their sewer lines right next to the faucet or sewage often spills next to the dump area. The Camco filters are really ineffective because they only filter up to 100 microns.

Well water is very often not potable. Most certainly faucets located next to dump stations are not potable as health and safety standards require a minimum separation from septic system to potable water sources. (In residential applications, there must be at least 50 feet separation between a potable water source and a septic tank and no less than 100 feet from the drain field.)

Any RV park that has a potable water source right next to their dump station is asking for trouble. How many new and/or inexperience RVers take for granted that the water from those faucets are safe?

If we, as RVers, see situations like this we need to point out to the park staff that potable water points and those that are well water points (unsafe for drinking) should be clearly marked.
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
Well water is very often not potable. Most certainly faucets located next to dump stations are not potable as health and safety standards require a minimum separation from septic system to potable water sources. (In residential applications, there must be at least 50 feet separation between a potable water source and a septic tank and no less than 100 feet from the drain field.)

Any RV park that has a potable water source right next to their dump station is asking for trouble. How many new and/or inexperience RVers take for granted that the water from those faucets are safe?

If we, as RVers, see situations like this we need to point out to the park staff that potable water points and those that are well water points (unsafe for drinking) should be clearly marked.

The point I'm trying to make is that frost-free faucet stands can suck up dirt--sewage connections are next to these faucets at almost all RV spots. That small amount of soil can easily be contaminated as bacteria percolates down to the faucet drain point.
 

TxCowboy

Well-known member
Clearly, if you're getting crud through the park's fresh water source, that is should be addressed immediately to park management.

The filters we install in our RVs should not be the primary method for purifying our drinking water when connected to an park's water supply.
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
Clearly, if you're getting crud through the park's fresh water source, that is should be addressed immediately to park management.

The filters we install in our RVs should not be the primary method for purifying our drinking water when connected to an park's water supply.

True, but how do you know if any RV park has installed their equipment correctly. For example, I told one park of the problem, they sent out a plumber who installed a new faucet stand, but he installed the new one incorrectly so it also sucked and dispensed dirt when it was first turned on. At that time, I only had the standard Camco outside filter and the dirt would make its way through it and out the faucet.
 

TxCowboy

Well-known member
True, but how do you know if any RV park has installed their equipment correctly. For example, I told one park of the problem, they sent out a plumber who installed a new faucet stand, but he installed the new one incorrectly so it also sucked and dispensed dirt when it was first turned on. At that time, I only had the standard Camco outside filter and the dirt would make its way through it and out the faucet.

So the park's water is potentially contaminated and the plumber is incompetent?

Not sure what else you can do but use only bottled water. Oh, wait. One of my local chain stores just had a recall on some popular brands of bottled water for possible contamination.

Oh, well....
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
So the park's water is potentially contaminated and the plumber is incompetent?

Not sure what else you can do but use only bottled water. Oh, wait. One of my local chain stores just had a recall on some popular brands of bottled water for possible contamination.

Oh, well....

Touche!
 

rsg1963

Member
I'm not sure why anyone would want to use their ice maker/water dispenser to begin with due to questionable water quality at RV parks. Well water can be the worst. I use a whole-house filter system along with a ceramic filter (RV water filter store) for drinking water that even removes E. coli. I've experience dirt coming in from the frost free faucets due to the way they were installed. These faucets, along with the dirt that surrounds them, are often located next to the sewer dump and guess what RV'ers often do--rinse their sewer lines right next to the faucet or sewage often spills next to the dump area. The Camco filters are really ineffective because they only filter up to 100 microns.
A


This comment baffles me. Why would I NOT want to use a feature or function of my RV? If the water at RV parks is so horrible, then I would not even shower with it. Also, are we the only people who fill up their fresh water tanks before leaving home just in case we need it?
 

OldTanker

Active Member
Follow up on the original post. Just got the repair estimate. The repair will take about 10 days to 2 weeks and will require removal of the slide. If no further damage is found then it will cost about $7800.00 to replace the slide floor.
 
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