What did you do to your camper today?

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
I love it.
I have 50amp power pedestal, water, and now l just bought this flojet waste pump to pump it into the kitchen clean out on the side of the house. I guess you can call that full hookups.
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DougS

Doug S
Installed some pull strings on our MCD shades. Bought materials so we could make different lengths so my wife could reach some hard to reach shades.
 

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For20hunter

Pacific Region Directors-Retired
Thanks Jim! Yes, we saw their post and how much what they did lightened up the inside of their Landmark. Quite impressive!

Rod

Looking good Rod and Kelly. Way to lighten up the kitchen too. Have you seen Kathy Adams thread or FB post on her and Ken's mods to their darker interior LM? Cool stuff. See you later this year!
 

pegmikef

Well-known member
I have 50amp power pedestal, water, and now l just bought this flojet waste pump to pump it into the kitchen clean out on the side of the house. I guess you can call that full hookups.


I call anyplace you can dump your tanks a full hookup. For mine, I had to run thirty feet of PVC to reach one of the sewer clean outs that is in my garage and bought a water-powered macerator pump to push the waste up the PVC ine from the rig. Works great. When not in use, I just store the PVC and associated fittings in the garage.
 

HornedToad

Well-known member
These waste pumps have redefined the laws of gravity and the 1st rule of plumbing... Yes it does run uphill!!!

I'm going to have to landscape a dry river bed lined with boulders below the grade of the yard to have a level shot from the sidewalk/curb to the sewer tap.

I added a 50 amp plug to the side of my old house, but the sewer tap was in the alley and the hose bibs were over 50 ft away. It's going to be nice having everything in one place, just like a campground.
 

MCTalley

Well-known member
After 3 years of saying we'd probably never want a washer/dryer in our rig, we installed a washer/dryer in our rig. We got the Splendide 2100XC (vented model). I put in a drain pan and used pex to run the drain line down the door side raceway to under our dresser where it does a 90 down through the floor and into the LP tank area. It is routed in there away from the LP tank. I still need to put something over the end of the line to prevent critters from making a home in it and also to put something around the hole where it exits from under our dresser (expanding foam?).

Vent hole drilled from inside.

i-zDdBZQB.jpg


Drilling the outside half. Blue painter's tape used to prevent chipping the fiberglass.

i-78QdRbb.jpg


Vent complete. (All they had in stock was white, but it is paintable. Probably going to shoot it with either black or dark brown).

i-KhXL5gZ.jpg


Test-fitting the pan and drain lines.

i-4Fw3J9x.jpg


Drain line exit in LP tank area.

i-sXWBs7k.jpg


Finished installation and first cleaning run in progress.

i-zWFZskK.jpg


Couple of notes. Even though this unit weighs around 140 lb., Val and I were able to get it up the outside steps using the flattened box as a ramp, then sliding it up the inside steps to the landing at the bedroom. Since it is only about 21" deep, turned sideways it will make it through the bedroom door and between the foot of the bed and the dresser. We only had to temporarily remove one door handle from our dresser door to make sure it would slide by.

Special thanks to Erika Dorsey who texted a bunch of tips and tricks to us based on their recent installation of the same unit in their former Elkridge.
 

MCTalley

Well-known member
We removed the two clothes rods from the right half of our closet. In their place is a pair of 29" tall racks from The Container Store. We assembled the two racks as a single 58" high unit and placed the top on it. The width of the unit is within 1/4" or so of the width of that side of the closet. The depth is just perfect in that it sits about 3/4" back from the closet door when it is closed.

We consolidated a lot of clothing that we formerly had on hangers due to a lack of dresser space into the drawers and rearranged some other items to clean up our clothing quite a bit. Since we lost our coat hanging space due to the washer/dryer going into that closet, it gained us some space in the left-hand side of the closet for hanging those up.

Clothing rods removed.

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Rack assembled.

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Drawers in place.

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- - - Updated - - -

Camping World had these remote controlled 16' multi-color LED light strips on sale for 1/2 price (about $78?). We picked one up while we were buying the washer/dryer. Though our Heartland-supplied LED strip works fine, we missed our colored light strip we had installed on our first Big Country.

Since we were about to lose access to the area where the wiring for the light strips terminate (in the laundry closet raceway), we figured it was a good time to go ahead and put in the new strip. I used the 12V hookup option for the new strip and used the old strip's wiring to power it up while taping back the old wiring to the same bundle in case we ever wanted to switch back. Now the new strip is controlled by the switch that used to control the old strip (at the switch panel). The strip was stuck onto the side of the trailer just below the channel-mounted original strip.

i-XqdvRXV.jpg


Sticking the strip on the side of the rig.

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Finishing up the wiring.

i-xHcDQN6.jpg


Sorry, no nighttime action shot.
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
A small bit of steel wool may work to seal up your drain pan pipe.


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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
After 3 years of saying we'd probably never want a washer/dryer in our rig, we installed a washer/dryer in our rig. We got the Splendide 2100XC (vented model). I put in a drain pan and used pex to run the drain line down the door side raceway to under our dresser where it does a 90 down through the floor and into the LP tank area. It is routed in there away from the LP tank. I still need to put something over the end of the line to prevent critters from making a home in it and also to put something around the hole where it exits from under our dresser (expanding foam?).

Vent hole drilled from inside.

i-zDdBZQB.jpg


Drilling the outside half. Blue painter's tape used to prevent chipping the fiberglass.

i-78QdRbb.jpg


Vent complete. (All they had in stock was white, but it is paintable. Probably going to shoot it with either black or dark brown).

i-KhXL5gZ.jpg


Test-fitting the pan and drain lines.

i-4Fw3J9x.jpg


Drain line exit in LP tank area.

i-sXWBs7k.jpg


Finished installation and first cleaning run in progress.

i-zWFZskK.jpg


Couple of notes. Even though this unit weighs around 140 lb., Val and I were able to get it up the outside steps using the flattened box as a ramp, then sliding it up the inside steps to the landing at the bedroom. Since it is only about 21" deep, turned sideways it will make it through the bedroom door and between the foot of the bed and the dresser. We only had to temporarily remove one door handle from our dresser door to make sure it would slide by.

Special thanks to Erika Dorsey who texted a bunch of tips and tricks to us based on their recent installation of the same unit in their former Elkridge.
Nice job

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TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Looks great! Glad to help. Your pics will help us when we get time to install our Spendide in the new Big Country. It looks like the closet/bedroom is set up exactly the same as ours. (right now the unit is in the closet, but not hooked up to anything.)
 

Bones

Well-known member
After 3 years of saying we'd probably never want a washer/dryer in our rig, we installed a washer/dryer in our rig. We got the Splendide 2100XC (vented model). I put in a drain pan and used pex to run the drain line down the door side raceway to under our dresser where it does a 90 down through the floor and into the LP tank area. It is routed in there away from the LP tank. I still need to put something over the end of the line to prevent critters from making a home in it and also to put something around the hole where it exits from under our dresser (expanding foam?).

Vent hole drilled from inside.
Special thanks to Erika Dorsey who texted a bunch of tips and tricks to us based on their recent installation of the same unit in their former Elkridge.
Looks good Mr. Talley
 

VKTalley

Well-known member
Looks great! Glad to help. Your pics will help us when we get time to install our Spendide in the new Big Country. It looks like the closet/bedroom is set up exactly the same as ours. (right now the unit is in the closet, but not hooked up to anything.)

Erika, I have more photos to share with you when you get ready for your install. :D
 

rsg1963

Member
Finished replacing all kitchen drawer guides with soft-close hardware. Replaced all door handles with Schlage hardware. Installed LED Stop/Turn/Brake light strip in between rear tail lights. Sprayed all 6 jack legs with PTFE dry lube. Then vacuumed up my mess. lol
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
Finished replacing all kitchen drawer guides with soft-close hardware. Replaced all door handles with Schlage hardware. Installed LED Stop/Turn/Brake light strip in between rear tail lights. Sprayed all 6 jack legs with PTFE dry lube. Then vacuumed up my mess. lol

What brand of soft-close hardware did you use? VERY interested.
 

rsg1963

Member
Camping World had these remote controlled 16' multi-color LED light strips on sale for 1/2 price (about $78?). We picked one up while we were buying the washer/dryer. Though our Heartland-supplied LED strip works fine, we missed our colored light strip we had installed on our first Big Country.

Since we were about to lose access to the area where the wiring for the light strips terminate (in the laundry closet raceway), we figured it was a good time to go ahead and put in the new strip. I used the 12V hookup option for the new strip and used the old strip's wiring to power it up while taping back the old wiring to the same bundle in case we ever wanted to switch back. Now the new strip is controlled by the switch that used to control the old strip (at the switch panel). The strip was stuck onto the side of the trailer just below the channel-mounted original strip.
Sorry, no nighttime action shot.

This is a great idea, please post again after you've tried it for a while. I also have a multi-colored strip and a factory white strip and would consider doing this if it's worth it. Thanks.

- - - Updated - - -

What brand of soft-close hardware did you use? VERY interested.

This exact type but bring a sample of your old one to the store to match up proper length. I think I had 20 or 22". That's what I did and it worked great. Now the drawers do not open while towing and the added plus of a soft close. Word of warning: The rear mounting area in my coach is nothing more than a floating frame. It was also 1" too close to the front for these replacement units. So all I had to do was remove every old hinge (which was going to happen anyway), push the frame back an inch and viola, perfection.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-...xtension-Drawer-Slide-1-Pair-942205/205171305
 
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