I really do not have an answer but you may want to try one of the battery powered fans inside the fridge. I find that the one I use really helps keep the temp more consistent inside the fridge. Does it behave the same way on gas and on electric?
I have seen several videos of people using the Eternabond on the seams and I am impressed. I think they used a min of 3" wide and up to 6" in some areas. You would need to cover the existing caulk and have at least 1" on each side in my opinion. I have used the 4" and 6" on a cargo trailer...
If you need to do seams on the top of the roof, then get the self leveling caulk. Get the appropriate one for EPDM if that is the type roof you have. So will work for TPO or EPDM but some will not. The sealer in the can is a coating for the entire surface. If you read the instructions on the...
Not sure about the Norcold but the Dometic absorption type unit I have does not have a control in the freezer. As I understand it if the fridge part is satisficed with low temp then the whole unit stops cooling. With the fridge unit at 29 I would say the fridge is satisfied. My Dometic...
If the freezer is actually fine in temp then the issue is probably leakage around the door seal, excessive heat around the unit, or excessive opening of the fridge part. My understanding is the freezers have no control and if the fridge temp is equal to the set temp then the freezer could then...
There have been many good tips for fixing. However you need to ask the question why it broke. Is it just bad angles on the original plumbing job or is one or both of the tanks dropping from the original position. I suggest you check the tank supports. 30 gals is over 250 lbs when full.
It really depends on the piping layout. The last RV it was great to just blow out lines. Used about 40 psi through regulator and and a blow out adapter with orfice hole for water connector. The recent RV however has too may low spots and I cannot get all the water out. If the temp is going...
I think it is a wear bushing rather than a stop. I suspect you will have metal to metal wear without it. Based on the picture it appears the inner and outer pieces will need to be separated before installing. This may require pulling the slide?
Looks like the supports for the tank have failed. The tank appears to have dropped and broken either the pipe or the connection on the tank. The first operation needs to be to get the tank supported properly. Assuming it is 30 gal a full tank will weight over 250#.
My thought is that the tank is typically higher than the dump connection in the RV and most contents will probably flow, but with the hose inlet and outlet the same you will have issues getting the remaining contents out of the hose. The ramps will certainly help this. I would also be a little...
What is recommended are called Oscar rivets. Work well. Below is the Dometic version. Just make sure the awing is pulled up close to the camper before using.
Dometic 3311579.016 3/16" x 1" Awning Oscar Rivet 10 Pack Bagged
The only reason I can think off that could possible cause this is if you have a residential fridge and the icemaker is continuing to fill when there is no 120 volt service? I guess a clothes washer could also have something strange going on also when not under 120 volt power?
You really did not indicate whether you were using the on board tank and pump or the direct connect to the water. Based on the fact that you indicated you were draining the fresh water on board I assume you were using the on board pump. There is a small filter on the inlet side of the pump...
Depending how many miles you have on the brakes the magnets maybe worn out and shorting. The magnets will wear against the drum surface and must be replaced from time to time as well as the brake shoes. I think Dexter has a thickness spec on the wear point. Also there could be a short in the...
Don't rely on anything the salesperson tells you. The towing specs should be available on a Ford website. The towing package typically increases the towing capabilities and the 4 wheel drive package typically decreases it. As mentioned above the Higher numerical gear ratio (ie. 3.73 is better...
I think this is the second occurrence of this I have read about on the forum in the last 30 days with the same issue. It appears that is has becomes common for the manufacture to make this junction of the AC feed rather than make a home run feed to the power box.
If you have a pull out faucet check the connection under the sink for the flexible hose. I had a flow issue on my home sink and there was a filter on the start of the flex hose that was stopped up.
I have no idea about the charger in your 305 but I can tell you that with the one in my truck, the phone has to be exactly placed for it to work. Otherwise it does not charge. Any case or other accessory will also effect it. There is one exact spot that works with mine.
While there you may want to change it out to just a check valve as the Anti-siphon valves are notorious for leaking and flooding the bathroom areas. As me how I know!
I must be missing something in the drawing regarding the dumping process. You should be able to dump any of the three tanks at any time individually? You have a separate valve for each tank? I do agree that the shower should dump into a grey tank not the blank tank however.
Be sure you antenna booster is turned on. There should be a small red or green light on when energized. Like the TV, it makes a huge difference in the radio reception on my unit as well.
Sounds like you may have only one leg hot on your 50 amp service that is not connected or not on. The short video below briefly explains the 50 amp service.
If you have recently drained and refilled the HW tank then you may have a lot of air coming from that. Generally it will be only on the HW side however. You may want to insure that you HW bypass valves are in the correct position if the RV has recently been winterized.
I think the Torque 285 and my Fuel 305 are the same layout? My slide controller is located behind the access panel under the bathroom sink. I do not have a wifi transmitter.
I think you are on a 30 amp service based on the info above. I am on a 30 amp service also and I usually leave my HW in gas mode if running the AC because I usually get a large voltage drop some times due to the extra amp draw here. I will also leave the Fridge in Gas mode if operating on a 20...
As you indicated below you need to check the wire that is actually on the breaker. Typically a black wire. The white wire should be the neutral. I am suspecting that the compressor had cycled off because the RV was at setpoint and only the fan was running. The 107 V is starting to be a concern...
The one in the HW heater is so when it is drained you can insure that no one accidently turns it on from inside the RV. If switched on while empty it will immediately burn out the element.
The specifications below for that model indicates 610 watts AC and another 30 watts (2.5 amp) dc so it appears that unless your measurement device is rounding to 1 KW it may be above normal. If the device is rounding then 1 KW maybe correct.
Input voltage (AC), [V]
120
Input voltage (DC), [V]...
there should be two hot legs on the 50 amp connection. Please see the attached. lots of good info there.
https://campaddict.com/reviews/electrical/best-rv-surge-protector/
You really need to measure the amperage being pulled. Low voltage and/or a bad connection could drive the amperage up. Also it could be a weak breaker tripping at a lower amperage than it should.
First of all you need to make sure that you do not have a poop pyramid. Google the term if you are not familiar. If not, I have had good success with the Commando Black tank cleaner. Follow the directions. I usually do not dump till back home so I drop in one for the trip home. My indicator...
There is usually a circuit breaker on the main power. Some are automatic while some have a small reset button. Also if you accidently hooked things up backward even for a second there are reverse polarity fuses on the fuse panel.
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