So I started on looking into / fixing this issue myself. When I pulled back the bottom cover to access the water tanks I found that both the 1/2" particle boards that support the tanks have flexed so much that the boards have cracked. I can only imaging that this happened at the dealer when they checked the tanks out. They had them filled to the brim when we picked up the trailer.
You will be able to see this in some of the pictures I have posted here plus other stuff as well.
http://helibuf.com/pictures/water tanks/
After dumping all the fresh water from the dump line I put blue lines on each of the tanks showing the water level. These are ~ 2in above the bottom of the tanks.
Pictures #222-223
In picture #235 you can see the sensor pickups. As you can see they are very low to the bottom of the tank.
In photo #237 I have added another vent line that will vent to the ground if the tanks get too full. There are 2 vent lines going to the front top edge of the forward tanks and then one on the top of the rear tank. When I cut the line to install my vent line between the 2 tanks, there was a lot of water still in the vent line. So my thinking is the water is just been sitting in this line and not allowing any of the tanks to vent. The top of the forward tank seemed like it was being "suck" in which suggests to me that the tank hasn't been venting and started collapsing. Where I put the new vent line is in a low spot between the 2 tanks which will hopefully be the first place the water heads for and will dump to the ground. I will put a small hole in the blanket when I get that far.
In picture #238 you can see how high the water pump inlet line is above the bottom of the tank. This is right at the same level as my blue line, wonder why?<G> This might be an easy fix for the suggestion that was posted earlier for using the copper pipe with the flare end in it. Just remove the fitting and add the pipe as a pickup tube and point it towards the center of the tank. Or just get either the screw on bulkhead fitting or get a welder to attach the new outlet on the bottom of the tank.
Pictures #244-247 is the replacement boards I made up. Cut the the same size I laminated support pieces to the bottom part of the board in hope of helping with the flexing of the tanks and such keeping the water from setting in the lower center section of the tanks. As you can see I have kept away from the outside edges so the boards can still hang on the "L" brackets in the frames. I left a tunnel in the center section so that metal cross brace that is on the trailer can still fit. Then on the tank side I have covered the counter sunk screws with thick tape to make sure they don't dig into the tanks.
So in the end I'm hoping to keep the bottom of the tanks flatter to eliminate puddling in the center. Then I'm hoping to have 2 outlets on the lower left rear of the front tank as well as the front left corner on the rear tank that will "Y" together and connect to the water pump inlet line, hence using up as much water as I can and possible making the sensor lights work better.
Doug