jbeletti's 2015 Landmark 365 Ashland

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Jim to add to your list of things to do.. When you open that up could you send me some pictures of what it look like under there. So I know where to find all of my tanks to install the new monitoring system.
I see some reviews on them and one guy said he put a second monitor in the docking station also for when he's dumping his tanks he can see what's going on out there. I think that would be a great idea.
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jbeletti

Well-known member
All good ideas good thing your a pro at it.
I want to put a better tank monitoring system in some day, but really don't want to go through all of that to do it. Wish there was an easier way to get to the tanks.

Looking at the Garnet 709-4 Seelevel ll tank monitoring system.

Jerrod - I've used the SeeLevel system before. They are nice. When I retire from Heartland, I'll put them on my last coach :)

Sooner if we ever get any monitor and control system in Landmark.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
"I also slit my coroplast underbelly all the way across (beam to beam). So I have that to redo. I may use the method whereby a 1x2 piece of pine the width of the underbelly is inserted at the cut to provide a surface on each side of the cut to screw it to the board. Then seal it up with a bead of black RTV."

Jim,
I just finished running wires for my solar project and i had to take the coroplast down. I wanted some better support when I replaced it so I ran 2 inch Aluminum angle from frame to frame. This provided a great support to screw the coroplast to.

I thought about metal too. Why did you go with angle vs flat stock? Is your angle outside of the coroplast? Did your seams come together somehow with the angle stock?
 

sjandbj

Well-known member
I thought about metal too. Why did you go with angle vs flat stock? Is your angle outside of the coroplast? Did your seams come together somehow with the angle stock?

Jim,
The angle is inside so the coroplast is screwed to the angle. I chose the angle for the strength. U channel was my first choice but it weight twice as much and cost twice as much also. The inside span is about 67 inches if my memory is correct and the 2 inch material made for a very sturdy anchor. It did not bend in the middle like the flat stock did. If it could be supported in the middle the flat piece is fine but I did not find a way to support the middle so the angle was the next best thing.

Steve
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
MOD: Water Filtration and Reverse Osmosis System

Got a few more items done with the RO system prep. Updates and pictures added to April 2 section of this post > link
 

Bones

Well-known member
MOD: Water Filtration and Reverse Osmosis System

Your RO system is looking good.
 
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jbeletti

Well-known member
MOD: Water Filtration and Reverse Osmosis System

Your RO system is looking good.

Thanks Dave. The RO system and filters will not arrive until Friday! Some delays in order processing due to heavy order volumes I am told. Guess that gives me the rest of the week to work on the coach here and there to finish preparations. I have yet to expose the gray tank. More fun to look forward to :)

Another big job is to remove broken Tek screws in I-beams. Those screws held the brackets for the fresh water tank rear brace. I plan to reattach with 1/4-20 grade 8 bolts with allen heads (can't reach in there with other tools).
 
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Bones

Well-known member
Re: MOD: Water Filtration and Reverse Osmosis System

Thanks Dave. The RO system and filters will not arrive until Friday! Some delays in order processing due to heavy order volumes I am told. Guess that gives me the rest of the week to work on the coach here and there to finish preparations. I have yet to expose the gray tank. More fun to look forward to :)

Another big job is to remove broken Tek screws in I-beams. Those screws held the brackets for the fresh water tank rear brace. I plan to reattach with 1/4-20 grade 8 bolts with allen heads (can't reach in there with other tools).
I looked up the strength between the two types of fastners. Why would they use self tappers for holding in something like the fresh and grey and black tanks. Maybe a larger fastener is in order to keep up with strength or use of nutserts. since you have already removed the brackets holding the tank in. maybe you can put nutserts in the brackets and pass your 1/4 inch bolt through and bolt from the outside.
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
WOW Jim what a project !!
After looking around under there and finding some problems do you think the rest of us should open ours up and check things out ?

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mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Re: MOD: Water Filtration and Reverse Osmosis System

I looked up the strength between the two types of fastners. Why would they use self tappers for holding in something like the fresh and grey and black tanks. Maybe a larger fastener is in order to keep up with strength or use of nutserts. since you have already removed the brackets holding the tank in. maybe you can put nutserts in the brackets and pass your 1/4 inch bolt through and bolt from the outside.

Don't be shocked. They use flat head self drilling self tapping screws to hold the front frame and sub-frame together. All RV manufactures do. The fasteners holding the tanks are in full shear though and really are not designed to be used in shear. Most of them do hold though and perhaps they were torqued too tight or not tight enough. Ether way will cause a fastener to fail in shear as well.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
WOW Jim what a project !!
After looking around under there and finding some problems do you think the rest of us should open ours up and check things out ?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Jerrod - I would never suggest that all owners open up their underbellies "just in case".

Rather, I'd advise that after the warranty is over, owners do as much of their own repairs as they're capable of. By doing this, they learn their coach well. And - you never know what you'll find. If something's amiss - fix it / make it better and move on. Life's too short to fret over every single thing.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Re: MOD: Water Filtration and Reverse Osmosis System

I looked up the strength between the two types of fasteners. Why would they use self tappers for holding in something like the fresh and grey and black tanks. Maybe a larger fastener is in order to keep up with strength or use of nutserts. since you have already removed the brackets holding the tank in. maybe you can put nutserts in the brackets and pass your 1/4 inch bolt through and bolt from the outside.

I'm going to guess - "speed" of install. I've yet to see the use of nutserts in a towable RV.

That said, it was my plan today, thanks to Dan Halvorsen who lended me his nutsert kit, to install nutserts in the flat bracket welded to the ends of the brace, then run screws through the web of the I-beam into the nutserts and call it a day. I went to do this today and stopped. In order to use even a 1/4-20 bolt, I' need to really enlarged the 1/4" hole that was i the brackets. There just wasn't enough material left in the corners to make me feel good about taking much of it away.

I had already purchased 1/4-20 grade 8 bolts, hardened flats, locks and nuts, so I plan to use them. I need only to remove the broken Tek screws and enlarge those holes to 1/4"
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Jerrod - I would never suggest that all owners open up their underbellies "just in case".

Rather, I'd advise that after the warranty is over, owners do as much of their own repairs as they're capable of. By doing this, they learn their coach well. And - you never know what you'll find. If something's amiss - fix it / make it better and move on. Life's too short to fret over every single thing.

Great advise Jim Thanks !!!
 

Bones

Well-known member
Jerrod - I would never suggest that all owners open up their underbellies "just in case".

Rather, I'd advise that after the warranty is over, owners do as much of their own repairs as they're capable of. By doing this, they learn their coach well. And - you never know what you'll find. If something's amiss - fix it / make it better and move on. Life's too short to fret over every single thing.

I agree with this that life is too short. It takes a lot of energy to be mad over something.

I'm going to guess - "speed" of install. I've yet to see the use of nutserts in a towable RV.

That said, it was my plan today, thanks to Dan Halvorsen who lended me his nutsert kit, to install nutserts in the flat bracket welded to the ends of the brace, then run screws through the web of the I-beam into the nutserts and call it a day. I went to do this today and stopped. In order to use even a 1/4-20 bolt, I' need to really enlarged the 1/4" hole that was i the brackets. There just wasn't enough material left in the corners to make me feel good about taking much of it away.

I had already purchased 1/4-20 grade 8 bolts, hardened flats, locks and nuts, so I plan to use them. I need only to remove the broken Tek screws and enlarge those holes to 1/4"

Well I was excited that you got a-hold of some nutserts then I was sad again. Oh well. I guess they put the selftappers in close to the frame edge. bummer Maybe you can tack weld the nuts onto the bracket to help you when bolting the frame back on.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
I agree with this that life is too short. It takes a lot of energy to be mad over something.

Well I was excited that you got a-hold of some nutserts then I was sad again. Oh well. I guess they put the selftappers in close to the frame edge. bummer Maybe you can tack weld the nuts onto the bracket to help you when bolting the frame back on.

Dave - I'm no welder.

I now know why they used only 2 Tek screws. The other holes align very close with a weld for a LevelUp bracket. These are the set of holes on the tank side of the brace - so no good way to get in there with a tool after the tank is set in place. I did pre-drill for 2 Tek screws on the off chance I can get a tool in there. I think before I connect all the lines, I can slide the tank a few inches either direction. We shall see.
 

Bones

Well-known member
Dave - I'm no welder.

I now know why they used only 2 Tek screws. The other holes align very close with a weld for a LevelUp bracket. These are the set of holes on the tank side of the brace - so no good way to get in there with a tool after the tank is set in place. I did pre-drill for 2 Tek screws on the off chance I can get a tool in there. I think before I connect all the lines, I can slide the tank a few inches either direction. We shall see.
Good luck. Take pictures if you can
 

JBoyerinAbq

Active Member
Re: Mod: Relocated 2 Ceiling Lighting Switches

Jim - really enjoy your posts and have no hesitation admitting I have copied several of your upgrades. We took our 16 Newport on our first trip this past week and had a wonderful time. Only very minor annoyances that were all corrected in short order. I like your light switch relocation mod - but wondering aloud now... Our Newport has the switch panel exposed, no cabinet door. I found walking down the hall in the dark searching for the kitchen light a little problematic. In our past motorhome, some of the light switches had leds in the switch on all the time to see in the dark. Are switches like that available for the Heartland panels? I'd love to have one switch glow all the time. Thanks - keep the great ideas coming.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Re: Mod: Relocated 2 Ceiling Lighting Switches

Jim - really enjoy your posts and have no hesitation admitting I have copied several of your upgrades. We took our 16 Newport on our first trip this past week and had a wonderful time. Only very minor annoyances that were all corrected in short order. I like your light switch relocation mod - but wondering aloud now... Our Newport has the switch panel exposed, no cabinet door. I found walking down the hall in the dark searching for the kitchen light a little problematic. In our past motorhome, some of the light switches had leds in the switch on all the time to see in the dark. Are switches like that available for the Heartland panels? I'd love to have one switch glow all the time. Thanks - keep the great ideas coming.

Jeff - yes, the water pump switch might be one that you could use for your project as it has an LED in it to indicate its status.
 
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