jbeletti's 2015 Landmark 365 Ashland

[jbeletti]

Re: Mod: Relocated 2 Ceiling Lighting Switches

Jim, looks great! (except for the black and tan, which makes my eye twitch, )

Do I understand this correctly, that the wires are no longer connected to the back of the switches in the cabinet for those two lights, or am I wrong?

The black and tan was what I had in inventory

You are correct, by doing this modification, the switches in the panel are inop / no longer wired. There is a way that both sets could be operable. It requires all switches to be 3-way type. I have none of those in my inventory but they do exist.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Re: Mod: Relocated 2 Ceiling Lighting Switches

The black and tan was what I had in inventory

You are correct, by doing this modification, the switches in the panel are inop / no longer wired. There is a way that both sets could be operable. It requires all switches to be 3-way type. I have none of those in my inventory but they do exist.

Same here I did the 3 switches, and the 3 inside the cabinet are now spares. I already used one as a main switch for my pantry lights to over ride the motion sensor if ever needed. I'm working on a use for the other 2.
This has been a awesome Mod..
Highly recommend it for those of you that have to open a cabinet to turn your lights on

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[Nabo]

Re: Mod: Relocated 2 Ceiling Lighting Switches

Jerrod - you and Jim need to get together with your coaches and compare. Then all of us's would like to see the differences.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

"Vagas baby"

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[Nabo]

Sorry but some of us on the east coast are still working. Guess it's the same with you when the National rally is held in Goshen. Travel time is the killer. Wonder which airlines will fly our Landmark out to LV???

 

[jstarwal]

Sorry but some of us on the east coast are still working. Guess it's the same with you when the National rally is held in Goshen. Travel time is the killer. Wonder which airlines will fly our Landmark out to LV???

Where is Goshen and what are the dates

Jack & Lynette

 

[danemayer]

Where is Goshen and what are the dates

Jack & Lynette

Goshen, Indiana. Near the Heartland factory in Elkhart, Indiana. Odd year North American Rallies are held at the Elkhart County 4H Fairgrounds.

The 2016 North American Rally is in Las Vegas, Nevada in early October. The 2017 North American rally hasn't been scheduled yet but it's usually in mid-June.

 

[Bones]

Re: Mod: Added Remote Control Holster for Roku 3 Remote

Dave - truth be told, the Tamper Switches are easier to install as you don't need to mount a magnet on the door in "just the right spot". And they're cheaper

Order Line Items

82-2580 - Tamper Switch N/O	$1.99
82-13870 - Alarm Switch Screw Terminals N.O. Contact/Mag; 3/4" Gap	$3.49

Yeah Definitely true on that. Only one spot to mount

- - - Updated - - -

Goshen, Indiana. Near the Heartland factory in Elkhart, Indiana. Odd year North American Rallies are held at the Elkhart County 4H Fairgrounds.

The 2016 North American Rally is in Las Vegas, Nevada in early October. The 2017 North American rally hasn't been scheduled yet but it's usually in mid-June.

I passed that place this week. Didn't stop as I was driving. Time from this side could be any where from 9 to 11 hours

 

[mlpeloquin]

Re: Mod: Relocated 2 Ceiling Lighting Switches

The black and tan was what I had in inventory

You are correct, by doing this modification, the switches in the panel are inop / no longer wired. There is a way that both sets could be operable. It requires all switches to be 3-way type. I have none of those in my inventory but they do exist.

To make both sets operative you would have to replace them with ON/ON switches. So far I can only find the smaller style switches with ON/ON. The ON/ON will allow one to connect them up so that ether one turns the lights on or off.

If the switches are JR Products I may have found them. I will open my rig up to see the manufacture of the switches.

Turns out that the switches are SIGMA 201E Series. I have the proper part number for the ON/ON switch. I am inquiring about small quantity purchases and if there is a supplier that stocks them. The part numbers are:
201E-26 DPDT ON/ON Black
201E-26 DPDT ON/ON Brown
201E-26 DPDT ON/ON Ivory
These would replace the current switches ion the panel to allow three way switching.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I don't see any reason why you would want the switch's inside the cabinet to still operate the lights when they are right there at your fingertips outside the cabinet.
Us the extra switch for your cool Mods down the road when you need them.

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[Bones]

Re: Mod: Relocated 2 Ceiling Lighting Switches

I would just put a plug in the unused hole and save the extra switches.

 

[jbeletti]

Re: Mod: Relocated 2 Ceiling Lighting Switches

I would just put a plug in the unused hole and save the extra switches.

That's probably what I will end up doing. I believe we stock the switch hole blanks as some of our panels in some brands are not full. Then I'll have spare SPST switches - thought these things rarely go bad.

 

[Toy1Ton]

Re: My Mods: Added Tinted Acrylic (aka Plexiglass) to Screen Door

Quick question for Jim, on your screen door mod, the color number called gray was that a good match to the color of the rest of the glass in your coach? and can I assume the tint in my 2016 Bighorn is the same as your 365?

 

[jbeletti]

MOD: Water Filtration and Reverse Osmosis System

Water Filtration and Reverse Osmosis System Installation

I'll be using this post to document my installation. I'll add things to it chronologically.

March 15-26
Spent the entire month thinking about this, doing research, speaking to those who've done it, speaking to vendors who sell it etc. Then I spent the better part of 2 weeks designing the system, sharing it with others, getting feedback and tweaking the design. I also started a forum thread on the subject to get feedback. Here's a link to that thread.

March 26

• Ordered the Super Deluxe Package IIB from RVWaterFilterStore.com.

March 27-30

• Worked with friend to design a custom control unit and remote Monitor and Control stations
  Here's a link to a video Michael Kidd recorded of the device he made for me
  

March 30

• Ordered additional materials for system (fittings testers, gauges etc.)

March 31

• Exposed fresh water tank in order to prepare for installation of a Tank Float Switch
• Cleaned up wiring between tank and frame on off door side to make working room to drill hole in tank for switch
• Found "issues" and removed Freshwater Tank
  
  Broken Vent Line Connector
  
  Stressed Fittings
  
  Loose brace causes trouble with tank and heat vent run
  
  Removed Tank Heating Pad and ordered replacement for this one
  

April 1

• Sanitize fresh water tank - round 1 (tank upside down with 1.75 cups bleach to 80 gallons water - soaking overnight)
  
  Built a mixing tank for introduction of bleach, diluted with 4 gallons of water - 2 times
  
  Filling tank from city water supply (via my utility sink)
  
  80 gallons and done - this is an 80 gallon tank
  

April 2

• Sanitized fresh water tank - round 2 (tank rightside up with 1.75 cups bleach to 80 gallons water - soaking overnight
• Pulled wire for fresh water tank float switch
• Pulled wire for kitchen water pump switch
• Drilled hole for and installed kitchen water pump switch
  
• Removed 1/4" poly line for ice maker from valve under kitchen island to cabinet next to refer
• Pulled 1/4" stainless steel braided line (two 20 foot sections) from valve under kitchen island to cabinet next to refer (left 6 feet of SS line for eventual direct connection to water solenoid at bottom of refer with length to pull refer all the way out of cabinet)
  
• Added 2 screws to frame for lower cabinet drawer glides - into slide room floor (missing from build)
  
• Uploaded custom code (courtesy Michael Kidd) to Arduino Nano (computer that will control my RO system)
• Unpacked setup soldering station in preparation for soldering tiny wires into tiny holes of the Arduino tomorrow
  < That circuit board is about the size of a stick of gum

April 3

• Drained fresh water tank
• Installed new straight fittings and rigid elbows in fresh water tank for vents, drain and pickup
• Drilled hole in fresh water tank for float switch bushing
  
• Rinsed tank with small amount of fresh water

April 4

• Installed new rigid elbows in fresh water tank for vents
• Installed float switch bushing and switch (tank to be used for RO product water storage)
  
• Leveled (on floor) and filled fresh tank with water to rinse the bleach from it and to measure how much water went into tank when level hit second sensor (20 gallon - 1/4 tank), when level hit third sensor (22 more gallons - or 42 total - so just over 1/2) and when level hit 4th sensor (26 more gallons - or 68 in total). I decided not to push the last 12 gallons in, to completely fill the tank as water was at the level of my vents and the tank could not bulge downward in order to fit the rest. Note that a few days ago, I did get 80 gallons in when running short upward lines off the two vents. I believe I had the tank blocked up at each corner as well
• Removed broken Tek screws in I-beams (from fresh water tank brace brackets)
• Made drilling template for brackets on fresh water tank rear brace
• Drilled 1/4" holes in I-beams for fresh water tank rear brace brackets
• Repaired
• Exposed gray tank 1 (upper deck: shower and 2 sinks - tank is in drop frame area
  (Rear brace on Gray 1 was broken from frame on 1 end )

April 5

• Installed new straight fitting in fresh tank for suction line and new 90 degree fitting for tank drain
• Checked resistance of tank float switch when it was empty - as expected, it read infinite (open circuit)
• Reinstalled fresh tank (reconnected all lines except 1 vent line (ran out of PEX) and reinstalled brace and straps. Used 2 grade 8 1/4-20 bolts on each end of brace and on 1 end, was able to add 2 Tek screw. Other end had no room to get a tool in for more bolts/screws
• Connected fresh tank float switch to wiring harness and remeasured resistance at end of harness to ensure open circuit
• Reconnected fresh tank level monitor cables to wiring harness
• Filled fresh tank with water and observed for leaks, movement in bracing and recorded gallons in tank when water reached each level sensor
• Monitored resistance of tank float switch when water level was reaching switch. Measured 68 gallons in the tank the resistance went low (closed circuit - shorted)
• Pictures for today's work:
  

April 6 (plan)

• Drained fresh tank (no leaks
• Installed PEX for second fresh tank vent (ran out of PEX on Apr-5)
• Installed replacement fresh water Tank Heating Pad and wired it in
  
• Reworked rear brace for gray tank 1 (resecuring it to frame in an improved fashion)
  
• Drilled hole in gray tank 1 and installed float switch (tank to be used for brine collection)
  
• Pulled wire for gray tank 1 float switch and connected to switch
• Worked on Water Pump Switch and Status LED project (link) - completing it

April 7

• Laid out cut lines in wall plates for ROCU (Reverse Osmosis Control Unit)
• Dremeled holes in wall plate for two RJ45 jacks and 6 pole screw terminal strip
  
• Soldered leads to Arduino Nano, Relay and terminal strip
  

April 8 (plan)

• Layout cut lines in wall plates for two ROMACS (Reverse Osmosis Monitor And Control Stations)
• Dremel hole in wall plates for installation of OLED displays
• Drill hole in wall plates for installation of momentary Mode Select switch
• Solder OLED displays and Mode Select switch to leads and connect to RJ45 jacks
• Check resistance of gray tank float switch when empty - expect it to read infinite (open circuit)
• Fill gray tank with water and observe (look for leaks, look for movement in bracing etc)
• Monitor resistance of gray tank float switch when water level is reaching switch. Measure gallons of water it takes to fill the tank to the point that float switch resistance goes to zero (closed circuit - shorted)
• Connect newly installed stainless steel braided line to 1/4" poly stub in cabinet next to refer
• Pull wires for 2 ROMACS (reverse osmosis monitor and control stations)

Date TBD (parts Filter and RO parts arrive)

• Drain and flush water heater
• Change anode rod
• Sanitize whole coach plumbing system
• Install, wire in and test tank heating pad
• Drain and flush water heater
• Change anode rod
• Sanitize whole coach plumbing system
• Install new filtration and RO systems
• Pressurize system, check for leaks

 

[gwalter]

Re: MOD: Water Filtration and Reverse Osmosis System

Jim, sounds like quite a project. I am looking forward to seeing it at the CO chapter rally in Sept. Good luck and hope no major problems arise.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I was going to say the same thing.
Sounds like a major project. Are you doing this at home I hope or on the road ?

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[jbeletti]

Gregg - Won't be much to see but I hope to be able to tell you if I like it or not

Jerrod - yeah, big project! I'm doing it in the RV garage. Right now, I have the coach raised as high as it will go with level up. Tires are way off the floor. Makes for working under it much easier.

My neighbor and Heartlander, Howard Burnette came over to help me remove the tank. Nice to have 2 heads, 4 hands and extra muscle sometimes. Getting the fresh water tank out is not very difficult but getting it back in should prove interesting. I also slit my coroplast underbelly all the way across (beam to beam). So I have that to redo. I may use the method whereby a 1x2 piece of pine the width of the underbelly is inserted at the cut to provide a surface on each side of the cut to screw it to the board. Then seal it up with a bead of black RTV.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

All good ideas good thing your a pro at it.
I want to put a better tank monitoring system in some day, but really don't want to go through all of that to do it. Wish there was an easier way to get to the tanks.

Looking at the Garnet 709-4 Seelevel ll tank monitoring system.

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[Bones]

Gregg - Won't be much to see but I hope to be able to tell you if I like it or not

Jerrod - yeah, big project! I'm doing it in the RV garage. Right now, I have the coach raised as high as it will go with level up. Tires are way off the floor. Makes for working under it much easier.

My neighbor and Heartlander, Howard Burnette came over to help me remove the tank. Nice to have 2 heads, 4 hands and extra muscle sometimes. Getting the fresh water tank out is not very difficult but getting it back in should prove interesting. I also slit my coroplast underbelly all the way across (beam to beam). So I have that to redo. I may use the method whereby a 1x2 piece of pine the width of the underbelly is inserted at the cut to provide a surface on each side of the cut to screw it to the board. Then seal it up with a bead of black RTV.

You can always get a thin strip of aluminum rivet it to one side and screw it into the other side then tape it shut to seal it. or get a wide piece of U channel aluminum rivet it to the frame then use screws to secure the chloroplast and tape the seam.

 

[sjandbj]

"I also slit my coroplast underbelly all the way across (beam to beam). So I have that to redo. I may use the method whereby a 1x2 piece of pine the width of the underbelly is inserted at the cut to provide a surface on each side of the cut to screw it to the board. Then seal it up with a bead of black RTV."

Jim,
I just finished running wires for my solar project and i had to take the coroplast down. I wanted some better support when I replaced it so I ran 2 inch Aluminum angle from frame to frame. This provided a great support to screw the coroplast to.